sherco 290
#1
Posted 18 November 2010 - 08:00 PM
#2
Posted 18 November 2010 - 09:28 PM
#3
Posted 19 November 2010 - 02:57 AM
#4
Posted 19 November 2010 - 04:24 PM
#5
Posted 20 November 2010 - 04:06 AM
mattsherco290, on 19 November 2010 - 04:24 PM, said:
No cheap kits, bite the bullet on this! If it is done it is doone. Should always be some side to side, btw. Most cycle shope can press and true the crank, I done tons back in the day. Nothing too special here for a good tech.
#6
Posted 20 November 2010 - 03:28 PM
copemech, on 20 November 2010 - 04:06 AM, said:
hi mate yeah whats the rough cost of it now anyway mate ?? just incase they try con me haha and whats the best stuff to use to clean the engine and what are sherco like for riding power wise ? im new to it hah
#7
Posted 20 November 2010 - 08:19 PM
mattsherco290, on 20 November 2010 - 03:28 PM, said:
Best I recall, we would charge for one hour's labor at the prevailing rate to press a crank.
Mineral spirits paint thinner(for oil based paint) is probably your best cleaner, then a blow dry. Anything too strong like laquer thinner will take the paint off the cases.
#8
Posted 24 November 2010 - 11:44 PM
copemech, on 20 November 2010 - 08:19 PM, said:
Mineral spirits paint thinner(for oil based paint) is probably your best cleaner, then a blow dry. Anything too strong like laquer thinner will take the paint off the cases.
okay buddy thaanks , any help on rebuilding my engine now i need to find out torque settings and everything else to put it back together thanks mate help would be great ta matt
#9
Posted 25 November 2010 - 07:26 AM
#10
Posted 26 November 2010 - 03:50 AM
Scribe the shaft and nuts on the therr major components, Flywheel, Primary drive geer, and Clutch hub prior to disassembly. This makes it easy to bring them back up to original or ever so slightly beyond position and torque using a rattle gun for quick assembly. Without, one would need a flywheel holder and clutch holder to apply proper torque. Most critical being the clutch hub, which is less and will strip.
Go back with the Viton main seals from Splatshop, as compared to the standard nitrile.
Be sure you keep all your little washers in proper relation.
#11
Posted 28 November 2010 - 10:40 PM
copemech, on 26 November 2010 - 03:50 AM, said:
Scribe the shaft and nuts on the therr major components, Flywheel, Primary drive geer, and Clutch hub prior to disassembly. This makes it easy to bring them back up to original or ever so slightly beyond position and torque using a rattle gun for quick assembly. Without, one would need a flywheel holder and clutch holder to apply proper torque. Most critical being the clutch hub, which is less and will strip.
Go back with the Viton main seals from Splatshop, as compared to the standard nitrile.
Be sure you keep all your little washers in proper relation.
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#12
Posted 29 November 2010 - 05:20 AM
mattsherco290, on 28 November 2010 - 10:40 PM, said:
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Could be, all depends upon what's in it! Once again, might call someone like Chris at Splatshop to compare.
Some gaskets you may not need, depending?
#13
Posted 03 December 2010 - 08:11 PM
copemech, on 29 November 2010 - 05:20 AM, said:
Some gaskets you may not need, depending?
hey there right alpha bearings have got my crank , i need a conrod kit unless i get recondition crank from somewhere if its possibly cheaper ?? any help ?
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