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Rear wheel bearings - 02 315R


spokey
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Hello

Just bought myself an 02 Cota 315R today - got it home and started having a better look at it, have found that the rear wheel bearings and the head bearings have seen better days and need replacing - have taken the rear wheel out ( suprised by the flimsy aluminium spindle ! ) and am now wondering the best wat to get the spacer out - I thought originally it was all one unit, but there appears to be a "tophat" type short spacer on the sprocket side, and from what I can see a long spacer tube going through to the disc side. No sure if there is a proper way to get these out as they are both tight, and don't look like they will just pull out - can anyone provide an idiots guide for me ?

Don't want to muller it up just yet ...

I have seen some wheel bearings on Ebay, but does anyone have the numbers for the bearings and seals, and head bearings too ?

Thanks for your help ... too bloody cold to be out in the garege too, snowing now ...

Spokey

Edited by spokey
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place a penny in the hole and knock trough with a drift the penny will stop damage, the bearing number shold be on the bearing it self. any ood bearing place will have what you need....good luck

Thanks for the speedy repy - sorry, having a mental block - can you elaborate a bit - basically all I have done is taken the wheel out so the only thing removed is the spindle - both spacers are still in, can't quite see where I'm going to put the penny ? sorry if I'm being thick ...

Cheers

Edited by spokey
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Thanks for the speedy repy - sorry, having a mental block - can you elaborate a bit - basically all I have done is taken the wheel out so the only thing removed is the spindle - both spacers are still in, can't quite see where I'm going to put the penny ? sorry if I'm being thick .place the penny on the bearing hole and then hit with a drift it will pass through picking up the spacer on the inside because its copper it wont cause any damage

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place a penny in the hole and knock trough with a drift the penny will stop damage, the bearing number shold be on the bearing it self. any ood bearing place will have what you need....good luck

bearing size is 6004 rs this means rubber seals, zz indicates metal seals. the knocking out procedure is right, just take your time.

Edited by fantic200
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Hi spokey,with regards to the headstock bearings,before you buy any slacken the the head stock bolt off and try with a c spanner nipping them up a bit,worth a go before you buy the bearings.

Mines a 98 but i assume yours will have a grease nipple to pump some grease into as well.

Good luck Andy.

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Thanks chaps

tried the penny trick - that was "interesting" ... didn't work, just ended up with a dish shaped penny !

I managed to knock the centre spacer over to one side and this was enough to knock one end out - didn't realise the end spacers were actually pressed into the bearings ! Bearings definately need replacing.

The head bearings do need replacing too - haven't taken them out yet but they are as notchy as hell when you turn the bars with the wheel off the floor.

I bought the bike with the promise it had been fastidiously maintained ... I think that Fastidious must means " never has been " ... !! still, good dose of Castrol Pyroplex blue grease on everything and that will be sorted.

bit too cold to spend much time in the garage today - couldn't feel my fingers at one point !

Cheers

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Look at the online parts fiche here: http://www.apexmotosports.com/montesa%20parts%20book/e-1.htm

Headstock bearings are actually a standard Honda part 91015-425-832. Same goes for the wheel bearings.

Wheel hub spacer tube has a shoulder machined into it on both ends, so it protrudes half-way into the inner bearing race. Great for centering everything, but a PITA to remove. The easy way is to have a friend turn a mating piece on a lathe, so it looks like a piece of solid cylinder with a step-down. The smaller diameter is same as spacer tube I.D. and larger diameter is same as wheel bearing inner race I.D. It is important to have this step-down because it protects the tube from crumbling when you are hammering it out. Also, heat up the aluminum wheel hub with a propane torch. Aluminum expands more than steel, so it will require much less force to hammer out the bearing.

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yep a bit of heat on those hubs and the bearing will literally fall out. ( 'bit' been the yorkshire euphanism for a lot!) any bearing factor will supply two or three standards of quality bearing talk to them they are decent enough guys who know there stuff. bearings 'seem' to be graded by how they react the faster they spin so thinking laterally bike bearings 'spin' relatively slowly so you should nt have to spalsh too much cash. i never have and havent had to replace a bearing that i have replaced..

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yep a bit of heat on those hubs and the bearing will literally fall out. ( 'bit' been the yorkshire euphanism for a lot!) any bearing factor will supply two or three standards of quality bearing talk to them they are decent enough guys who know there stuff. bearings 'seem' to be graded by how they react the faster they spin so thinking laterally bike bearings 'spin' relatively slowly so you should nt have to spalsh too much cash. i never have and havent had to replace a bearing that i have replaced..

New bearings ( quality SKF ones ) arrived today -

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