10 replies to this topic

[manxmann3]

Hello. This is really leading on from my other post but am hoping some one with experience with this will spot the post and help out.

Bike still not sparking consistently on every kick. Have had the multimeter out and tested resistancy of what i can. Results are as follows.

Coil 0.80. Should be 0.45- 0.55
Secondary coil with plug cap 14.17. Should be 12.4-16.8
same test without plug cap 9.56. Should be 8.0-10.6

Ignition pulse generator 96.9. Should be 90-110
Charging coil 1.1. Should be 0.64-0.79
Exciter coil 12.2. Should be 10.8-13.2

So the coil results are out and and the charging coil. Would either explain the poor occasional sparking? Ive cleaned up the earth connection to the frame and its got a brand new plugcap and new correct sparkplug.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Have spent far too long messing with this bike now and getting nowhere. Thanks.

[Stork955]

Gday, those numbers look OK. The charging coil is mainly for the lights/fan etc so dont worry about those. From here you can assume components are OK, check the flywheel itself - a quick test is to see if it will hold a large screwdriver. Check all your connections for cleanliness and tightness. Measure each wire looking for continuity - you may need to wriggle and pull on them to make sure they are OK.

Good Luck

Cheers,

Stork

[johnny_rotten_dab]

Firstly have you checked all of these readings out of circuit? have you made sure the kill button is ok? the two readings out... Coil 0.80. Should be 0.45- 0.55 and Charging coil 1.1. Should be 0.64-0.79 I would assume these readings are taken out of circuit! Theres not a lot to it looking at diagram, diss black white going to control mod.....test.....diss two yellows from stator(forget about these till u get a decent spark)...test again...good spark??check earths to control module are good,put a scope on ignition pulse generator pair while kicking over to see if control mod is receiving signal....ok?....make sure wiring connections are good here also....after this its a case of swapping parts,control mod...coil....stator....flywheel etc, previous tests will show if flywheel can produce decent EMF


God save the queen!

[manxmann3]

Thanks for replies.

I did tests as per manual, out of circuit. Before i disconnected it all i had tried kicking it with kill switch disconnected. Its not that. Ill admit electrics is not my strong point so im struggling with this.

Looks like i need a strobe? Thanks for help so far.

[Honda_Freak]

hello again

As you write, you have disconnected the ignition switch and there is still no spark. But what about the wire that goes to the ignition module.
If the blue / white wire that goes to the ignition module goes to ground before it gets ground through the stop switch, so what!

Here is a simple test you can do with your multimeter to determine if your ignition module is blown. Disconnect the blue / white wire that goes to the stop switch. Measure the resistance between the blue / white wire (the one who goes to the ignition module) and the frame.

There must, absolutely be no transition to the ground on this wire. If so, you have a burnt ignition module.

There are other options, but try this first.

[manxmann3]

Hello freak,

Do you mean the black and white wire? Do i leave the green wire bolted to frame to earth, then set multimeter to resistance, stick one end in black/white wire and touch other end on the bolt? Im crap with electrics. Am a plumber!

If thats correct method then what should the multimeter show? Thanks.

[Honda_Freak]

hello manxmann3

Sorry - I meant of course the black / white wire and yes you can measure the resistance to the green wire that is common ground on the motorcycle.

The multimeter should display infinite resistance or at least several mega ohms

[manxmann3]

I checked for continuity through the black/white wire, it had a reading of 556. Should it of shown 0? Am i doing test correctly? Thanks.

[Honda_Freak]

Do you mean 556 ohms!
It will not read zero ohms in this circuit further 10 million ohms or infinite resistance, which is displayed as "OL" on the meter.

Yes - I think you do it right.

[Honda_Freak]

I have not told the full story regarding this measurement. To make it more clear to you, it is actually a diode you measure through. A diode must block the flow in one direction and directing the flow in the other direction.

What this means to you is when you measure with the red test lead from the meter on the black / white wire and the black test lead on earth, there must be a very high resistance.

When you measure, with the red test lead from the meter on earth and one black test lead on the black / white wire from the module meter should show a very low resistance.

I have no exact measurements from a Montesa 315R. What you have to be noticed is the big difference between the two measurements.

I have previously used this method to determine the ignition module is bad, but not on a Honda Montesa 315R.

I know it was a little technical, and hope you understand it.

Edited by Honda_Freak, 01 February 2011 - 12:16 PM.

[manxmann3]

Swapped my coil with a donor bikes coil. Thats what was wrong.

I had an electrician check the bike over and the resistance result for the primary coil was almost double what it should be. Tried the coil from the running bike and it started 2nd kick. Cool!

Thanks for all your help with it.