Was just wondering if there is any way of making your clutch lever feel a bit more progressive. Right now it’s a bit like an on/off switch which I don’t mind at all. But I would like to make it have more feel the ssdt, think it would help the back wheel from spinning in the section.
Question about the clutch
Started by Wonder Boy, Feb 11 2011 09:19 PM
6 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 11 February 2011 - 09:19 PM
#2
Posted 11 February 2011 - 11:17 PM
Good to have you back Gav. We'll be much nicer to you this time
'fraid I can't answer your question though. Just a thought, have you compared it to similar bikes? If it's a big difference something is wrong or broken.
'fraid I can't answer your question though. Just a thought, have you compared it to similar bikes? If it's a big difference something is wrong or broken.
#3
Posted 11 February 2011 - 11:50 PM
check hieght of fingers on the clutch i would suspect your clutch pack is too thick check out gas gas clutch repair videos on you tube
#4
Posted 12 February 2011 - 01:17 AM
youthy, on 11 February 2011 - 11:50 PM, said:
check hieght of fingers on the clutch i would suspect your clutch pack is too thick check out gas gas clutch repair videos on you tube
That is probably the first thing to do as finger height has a direct affect on the engagement range, although on a new bike this (clutch pack out of spec.) would be somewhat unusual so soon.
Another "trick" for a smoother engagement is to change the fluid (mineral oil in your case) to DOT-5. You will need to completely flush the system but I convert all my bike's clutches to DOT-5 and it's a little time consuming but easy to do.
DOT-5 is Silicone base and very common in military vehicles for various reasons, but racers avoid using it in competition braking systems as it results in brakes that feel "spongy" because it is very slightly compressible, unlike the DOT-3, 4, 5.1 series fluids.
I've found that it makes clutch engagement feel a lot smoother (it also has good lubricity) and it's easier to modulate the lever to search for traction in loose sections. Upper level riders usually like a clutch more digital rather than analog, but for the rest of us it's a choice we have.
Jon
#5
Posted 12 February 2011 - 03:20 AM
JSE, on 12 February 2011 - 01:17 AM, said:
That is probably the first thing to do as finger height has a direct affect on the engagement range, although on a new bike this (clutch pack out of spec.) would be somewhat unusual so soon.
Another "trick" for a smoother engagement is to change the fluid (mineral oil in your case) to DOT-5. You will need to completely flush the system but I convert all my bike's clutches to DOT-5 and it's a little time consuming but easy to do.
DOT-5 is Silicone base and very common in military vehicles for various reasons, but racers avoid using it in competition braking systems as it results in brakes that feel "spongy" because it is very slightly compressible, unlike the DOT-3, 4, 5.1 series fluids.
I've found that it makes clutch engagement feel a lot smoother (it also has good lubricity) and it's easier to modulate the lever to search for traction in loose sections. Upper level riders usually like a clutch more digital rather than analog, but for the rest of us it's a choice we have.
Jon
Another "trick" for a smoother engagement is to change the fluid (mineral oil in your case) to DOT-5. You will need to completely flush the system but I convert all my bike's clutches to DOT-5 and it's a little time consuming but easy to do.
DOT-5 is Silicone base and very common in military vehicles for various reasons, but racers avoid using it in competition braking systems as it results in brakes that feel "spongy" because it is very slightly compressible, unlike the DOT-3, 4, 5.1 series fluids.
I've found that it makes clutch engagement feel a lot smoother (it also has good lubricity) and it's easier to modulate the lever to search for traction in loose sections. Upper level riders usually like a clutch more digital rather than analog, but for the rest of us it's a choice we have.
Jon
Heres my question to you if the o-rings fail in the slave piston and silicone goes into the case wont it contaminate the friction plates making them useless. But since the mineral oil is very similar to ATF if it were to leak then it is less of a problem. I agree check the finger height it should be closer to 19mm and also move your clutch lever closer to the center giving your finger more travel.
Dustin
#6
Posted 12 February 2011 - 05:53 AM
Just to add to the comments already made. I had the opposite request not so long ago in that I wanted a faster clutch for splatters. Some obvious but great advice was to move the lever perch closer to the end of the bars. Moving your perch further away from your bar end would have the opposite effect and make it more progressive, that's if you haven't done that already.
#7
Posted 12 February 2011 - 05:05 PM
legionnair, on 12 February 2011 - 03:20 AM, said:
Heres my question to you if the o-rings fail in the slave piston and silicone goes into the case wont it contaminate the friction plates making them useless. But since the mineral oil is very similar to ATF if it were to leak then it is less of a problem. I agree check the finger height it should be closer to 19mm and also move your clutch lever closer to the center giving your finger more travel.
Dustin
Dustin
Always a possibility, but o-ring failures in the servo cylinder are very rare from my experience.
Jon
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