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TY 175 Kick Start Mechanism


ivorybull
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I am still having trouble with my kick start locking and not returning.

Should the kick start shaft (and kick start lever) be able to move in and out by approx 1/2 inch. When the kick start does not return I need to tap it with my boot and knock it back into the cranck case a bit then it returns. Is this usual or am I missing a spacer?

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I am still having trouble with my kick start locking and not returning.

Should the kick start shaft (and kick start lever) be able to move in and out by approx 1/2 inch. When the kick start does not return I need to tap it with my boot and knock it back into the cranck case a bit then it returns. Is this usual or am I missing a spacer?

Sound's like your Kickstart spring is broken or damaged.Open the Clutchcover and have a look for the spring.

Chrs:Mike

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Sound's like your Kickstart spring is broken or damaged.Open the Clutchcover and have a look for the spring.

Chrs:Mike

Hi, The bike is being restored so all the bits have been apart and reasembled. The spring seems fine, located and working. The shaft has no signs of wear. The spacer disc, plastic sheeth is there, all seems ok. But the hole shaft when assembled can slide in and out.

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Hi, The bike is being restored so all the bits have been apart and reasembled. The spring seems fine, located and working. The shaft has no signs of wear. The spacer disc, plastic sheeth is there, all seems ok. But the hole shaft when assembled can slide in and out.

Hm,it slides in and out,that is not good,could be that the kickstartshaft is broken.So you have to pull it out.Or does anyone else has a clue?

Chrs:Mike

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Okay, so I just pulled the clutch cover off of mine:(, that's okay the oil was drained and it is up on the bench ready for the Allen head capscrews to be installed anyway. Working the mechanism the only ways that you could possibly have so much axial play are; as already posted, your ks spring is broken, you have re-assemled the shaft incorrectly or you have missplaced a circlip or other component. This is not a good situation as the friction clip (spring) and shaft stop will not engage in their respective crankcase recesses. Also if the shaft moves out 1/2 inch the pinion on the shaft will interfere with the teeth on the clutch basket. Do you have a workshop manual as you have to go through the assembly step by step and make sure it is correct :mellow:

Jonny.

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Thanks Jonny

I agree, I think I need to start from first principles and make sure everything is put together properly. I have a Haynes Manual so will chack everything is correctly positioned. When I bought the bike it had been dismantled and was in crates with the side cases, clutch and kickstart removed. I presumed the kickstart shaft had not been tampered with, it looks right with no wear but maybe someone has had it apart and made a mistake.

Or maybe the kickstart shaft I have is not for a TY175!

Iain

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I took the kick start shaft out again tonight and have had a good look at it.

All the pieces seem to be in place but there is a white nylon collar on the shaft which holds the spring spacer in place which does not show up on the drawings, but there is no circlip (14 in the haynes manual) or a groove for the circlip to fit into. It does say the circlip is on early ty 175 models.

The spring is OK and located, the spring spacer is there, the large washer is there, the collar and circlip to hold the cog in place, friction clip renewed.

Should there be a spacer after the spring spacer, if not should the spring spacer sit tight up against the outer case cover?

If not what holds the kick start shaft tight into the crank case socket?

Does anyone know?

Iain

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Ivorybull, ...IF...you pm me your email address I will pull my kickstart assembly and send some HQ digital photos. I can even disassemble it and lay the parts out in order

and photograph that. I've done it before so no big deal, as long as the return spring doesn't pinch me fingers. New capscrews should be here tomorrow so get on it. :thumbup:

Jonny.

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Ivorybull, ...IF...you pm me your email address I will pull my kickstart assembly and send some HQ digital photos. I can even disassemble it and lay the parts out in order

and photograph that. I've done it before so no big deal, as long as the return spring doesn't pinch me fingers. New capscrews should be here tomorrow so get on it. :thumbup:

Jonny.

Thanks Jonny, I've PM'ed you with my details.

Iain

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  • 3 weeks later...
 
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Jonny

No, still having problems. Not had much time recently but I put all the new shims in and then had an adjustment issue with the clutch which I resolved last night but the kickstart mechanism is still difficult. I put it all together last night and it was still not smooth then it locked up. When I opened it up again I found the outer circlip holding the idle kickstart gear had some how come off (god knows how) so the idler gear was moving back and forward.

Starting to think that I might be better off sourcing another engine. There is a DT175 engine on ebay at the moment which I presume would fit???

Iain

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Iain, have you checked the pinion on the end of the kickstart shaft has not slipped? A common problem related to the TY175 is the pinion that also locates the return spring will after time break the weld that holds its location on the shaft. Usual problem is that will not return to its proper return position and sometimes over return and smashes into the side casing, usually holing it by the pinch bolt is on the kickstart lever.

The alternatives are 1. replace the shaft with a new one, Yamaha still have this part on hand, but does not have a circlip groove near the outer for a shim location against the casing (nothing to be worried about).

2. Try and reweld the pinion in its proper location position on shaft (really hard to see exactly, as a new replacement is obvious, and the old one is now a repaired spare - as I have done now!)

I hope this helps you some, its symptoms are looking to be related to this common problem, hate to see you go and smash you casing also, a heads up on some info anyway if its not.

Cheers Roger

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  • 1 year later...

Hi guys

I'm experiencing the same problem as Ivorybull; just put back together my engine and cannot start it because the kick start axle moves outwards.

I did notice during the reassembly that I have a kick axle without the groove for the outer circlips...

My middle casing on the RH side did show some marks from former springs 'breaking loose', but do you think this could be the problem for mine?

The kick spring still works, as the lever returns (eventhough I have to guide it a bit).

Does anyone have experience with placing a bushing between the large washer and the outer casing?

Thanks a lot,

Nils

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hi Ivorybull.

I fitted a Righthand side case to my TY175 from a MX175 when the original one got damaged. Ater fitting it the kickstart shaft had 1/2 inch end float and jammed up when I tried to kick start it. On investigation the MX case had a different profile than the TY one it was 1/2 wider causing the shaft assembly to slide out and disengage the pinion.

You may have the incorrect case fitted, I made up a 1/2 inch plastic spacer to retain the shaft.

rgds Roy

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