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2007 beta 250


darrenmk
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Water pump corrosion is probably the biggie. Only way to really check is to drop the side cover. You could slyly ask if it's OK to use tap water as a coolant. If the reaction is "Sure" then be wary. If the owner tells you to only use premixed propylene glycol like Engine Ice or Silkoline Pro-Cool then it's probably good. Unless the owner reads this :)

Carb problems and clutch problems all have fixes pinned to top of this forum.

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I have an 07 270 and its a great bike.

cheak rear shock has damperning,(when you push down on rear suspension it returns in a controld manner rather then like a pogo stick) and that it is not leaking oil.

the water pump corrosen is covered under warrenty here in new zealand even on 2nd hand bikes so the importer tells me. the easy answer if this is a problem is to replace it with an aluminum case rather then magnesium and never worry again.

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Hi Darren

It's Angelo here fro the GLC

I just bought a 2002 rev3... A few small problems I will post them up here later.

I should have followed this buying inspection advice....

"As for the condition how good is each year question faults to look for etc

have a look at the whole of the bike is it clean with no obvious damage (damage that would affect its use,)

make a note of all the stuuf that is wrong as you go along so you have some idea of repairs at the end

wheels are they bent, broken spokes, bearings ok, tyres ok

engine, has it any leaks, water/oil, is the engine physically damaged (craked casings etc) does the oil look nice and clean in the crankcase

take the water pump cover off (2 jubilee clips and couple of allen bolts) inside it should be nice and clean with NO signs of rust, the first signs would be round the very edges where the metal is thinnest.

take the air filter cover off, (one screw) is the filter in one piece is it nice and clean, take the filter out (one screw) is the airbox nice and clean inside get your finger or a screwdriver and put it right to the bottom of the airbox below where the air goes in the carb there should be NO mud dust silt water down there

grab hold of the rear wheel and give it a good old yank to see if thier is movement in the swing arm check the reaer shock is not leaking

check the chain how much have the chain adjusters been turned round can you pull the chain away from the rear of the rear sproket, what do the teeth look like on the rear sproket they should be uniform with no chipping or uneven wear

check the front forks do they go up and down smoothly are the chrome bits nice and smooth with no scrathes or rust are they leaking

chek the head bearings by putting front brake on and trying to rock the bike back and forwards thier should be no movemnet at the steering head

cheack the front brake pads thier should be 2 mm at least on each pad and the disc needs to be smooth and straight does it work the front wheel should lock up, exactly the same for the rear

start the bike up (by now it will be nice and cold incase the seller had warmed it up before you got there!) it should tick over once warm with the choke off let it warm up

out of gear rev it and roll it off you should hear no knocking like somebody hitting it with a hammer especially as it nears idle

ride the thing up and down (no need for wheelies) just to make sure it goes up and down all the gears and that the clutch works ok

stand back and let it tick over until the fan comes on

look at the list youve made and then ask the seller how much he wants for it

remember with a trials bike your buying on condition not on age much better an A1 1995 than a 2005 thats never had an oil change and has failed all the above

betas are simple and reliable...."

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