myzeneye Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 hi folks.... ive bought myself a bike and im ready to get started... the guy i bought the bike off though was only half my size..hahaha the suspension could do with stiffening up, bot rear and forks... can any one offer advice on how i should go about adjusting everything... what i maen is, is there a method to get it right, as in do i just do it by feel when im on the bike or what? i dont want to get it so stiff it has no travel or the rebound sends me into the far reaches of the solar system.... also, i can see obviously how i alter the rear shock stiffness, but i need a bit detail on stiffening the front forks etc... i know its probably easier done then explained over the internet, but any help is welcome... yhnaks guys mat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
houseape1000 Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Do a search on here, there's been quite a lot on this subject. I won't comment as I'll probably get it wrong !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Some depends upon the year of the bike, however, adjust up the rear spring till you get about 20mm sag standing upright under its own weight. Front springs not adjustable on pre '06 models, yet still fine in most cases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 You're slipping Cope, the 99 & 00 had fully adjustable forks as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splatshop Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 All the different year Shercos have pre-load adjustment on the rear shock, which can be adjusted using these threaded collars, on the bikes with 2 collars you have to unscrew the one furthest away from the spring first to unlock the other collar (Bikes with one collar usually have a small grub screw that locks the collar in place so make sure this is undone) then wind this collar till the desired ride height is achieved. Make sure you relock the collar after adjusting. On the 1999 and some 2000 bike plus the 2006 onwards bikes the front suspension can have the ride height altered and the damping adjusted using the adjusters on the top of the fork legs. Spring pre load adjustment, clockwise for increased ride height. Damping adjuster, clockwise for increased damping i.e. slower rebound. On the 2006 Cabestany replica and all following variations the rear damping can be adjusted using this screw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myzeneye Posted March 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 oh well, mines a 2003 sherco 250.... so that sorts the front shocks out for me ! the rear shock, i can see how to make the adjustment, im just not sure what it wants to be like exactly..? when you say 20mm sag when its stood on its own, where is best for me to observe/take measurements for this ? do you mean 20mm differance between points a +b when bike is on its under tray ( i use a beer crate ! for now anyway) and then when i set it down on the ground...? is that with me stood on the bike or it on its own ? (sorry, i know that aint clear.... if i could type an image of me waving my arms around and talking with my hands im sure id be able to get it across much clearer....hahaha_) also, how much sag should i see from it all when i get onboard.... im a big lad and i dont want the thing bottoming out at all you see..... ? all helps is greatly appreciated....thanks... mat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewy Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 (edited) All the above explain the mechanics of your question, sag being the amount the bike sttles under its own weight, after that it's down to personal taste the main thing for me is balance between front and rear I just push bike at its lowest point (front of seat rear of tank area) by hand and try to get it to move same front and back and as soft as possible without bottoming under my weight, I dont like too much rebound damping ,ie recovering from compression, provided its not a pogo stick its ok for me. Keep on taking opinions and by targeted trial and error you'll get what suits you. As a PS youre best suspension remains to be your own legs;; modern bike riders can remind themselves of this by riding a twinshock on them its no legs no good ride. Edited March 16, 2011 by chewy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myzeneye Posted March 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 ok, ill have a fiddle tonight in the garage.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 Careful, I think that year has a little grub screw in the rear spring adjuster ring and if you do not loosten it off it will mangle the threads trying to turn it. The 20mm sag thing is just a rough guide. You can lift up on the muff or mudguard slightly to get a feel for this. it should just float a little. The springs are made for a medium weight rider, but say for aheavy lad I would still not wind the spring up past the point that static sag is reduced to near nothing, as too much is not good. Have seena lot of bikes where noone ever ajdusted the things and the rear sagged soo much the bike would not hardly stand on the kickstand without falling over on level ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted March 18, 2011 Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 (edited) Thanks again Splatshop Chris for the good pics! Just seen your mention of the grub as well! Edited March 18, 2011 by copemech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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