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shercogeezer
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Hi, I'm currently having problems with my clutch on my sherco. The bite point seems to move further and further in until it's either dragging really bad or I can't disengage the clutch at all which at times has been scary! It seems to coincide with temperature increase as has been hot today and once turned off for maybe two minutes the clutch is fine again for another 2 minutes or so of riding. Winding the adjuster in has the usual effect of moving bite point out further but it will gradually work it's way back in again. Screw is now some 3 turn's in from where it started this morning!

I tried a quick bleed earlier whilst riding, didn't have any fluid with me so didn't want to go too far and introduce air, also gear box oil is 2 rides old now - putoline light gear oil and I de-glazed the clutch plates today, but that had no effect and I didn't think it would seeing as bike is only 3 weeks old and shouldn't be an issue, but then I shouldn't have a migrating bite point either but had to rule it out as have had some success with this in the past when faced with this kind of problem!

I could probably claim on warranty for this but need to fix asap as have 2 nationals over weekend and off to scotland week after :wacko: Not good timing!

Tomorrow I plan to change master cylinder seals/plunger and bleed clutch fully as assume it must be hydraulic related, maybe 'boiling' with temperature increase. Oh and the clutch doesn't feel any lighter or softer like there's air or something, it feels just the same as normal to operate just with a not so reliable release point.

Any help or ideas will be greatly appreciated.

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Hi, I'm currently having problems with my clutch on my sherco. The bite point seems to move further and further in until it's either dragging really bad or I can't disengage the clutch at all which at times has been scary! It seems to coincide with temperature increase as has been hot today and once turned off for maybe two minutes the clutch is fine again for another 2 minutes or so of riding. Winding the adjuster in has the usual effect of moving bite point out further but it will gradually work it's way back in again. Screw is now some 3 turn's in from where it started this morning!

I tried a quick bleed earlier whilst riding, didn't have any fluid with me so didn't want to go too far and introduce air, also gear box oil is 2 rides old now - putoline light gear oil and I de-glazed the clutch plates today, but that had no effect and I didn't think it would seeing as bike is only 3 weeks old and shouldn't be an issue, but then I shouldn't have a migrating bite point either but had to rule it out as have had some success with this in the past when faced with this kind of problem!

I could probably claim on warranty for this but need to fix asap as have 2 nationals over weekend and off to scotland week after :wacko: Not good timing!

Tomorrow I plan to change master cylinder seals/plunger and bleed clutch fully as assume it must be hydraulic related, maybe 'boiling' with temperature increase. Oh and the clutch doesn't feel any lighter or softer like there's air or something, it feels just the same as normal to operate just with a not so reliable release point.

Any help or ideas will be greatly appreciated.

Clean the mud out your crankcase breather tube and /or be sure it is not pinched or kinked! :thumbup:

Edited by copemech
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Wow Cope that sounds like the voice of experience.. you wouldn't have a fix for the little red spanner light on a Renault traffic staying on..? Renault have advise a motor mechanic mate of mine that I will have to wait untli 36 K miles before it can be turned of by some elaborate combination of pedal actions along with ignition on offs ...arghh.

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Chewy,

Try ignition on, full throttle, then pump the foot brake three times (maybe more though) that should reset it.

Try it while driving along for added danger! :wacko:

Edited by rcgods
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Ha.. yea we tried that it gets rid of the service light (yes we changed the oil & filter).. ni fact we tried loads of similar combinations..including with a finger up left nostril and right eye shet etc etc... then last week my mate had a Kangoo come in with same thing he tried all the usual including hooking it up to his Car stuff computer, he ended up phoning Renault and the bit about 36K miles was thier answer... ho hum thanks for the thought though. It will be interesting to see what the results of the origin of this forum are.

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Hi thanks for replies can always rely on you guys! I'm currently bleeding clutch now with new fluid and will change gearbox oil to 10w40.

The breather pipe unfortunatly has gone (fallen off like most bit's of my bike - kickstart jumped ship yesterday!?!?) is it required for a balance of pressure?? I don't really understand it's full purpose! Will it have an effect not being there? I will check for a blockage at brass type pipe that's left.

Have just found on a different website, someone describing a similar problem with a 2.9 sherco which turned out to be the roller bearing on the clutch basket. He reckoned the rollers didn't have enough clearance so he honed the outer race by about 0.002" which he reckoned cured it. Is this likely to be a problem? I can't see that it would be when it seems to have just started recently? :unsure:

Edited by shercogeezer
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Pre-Event Checklist(Or New Bike)

Below are the maintenance items that should be completed prior to a trials competition. For club level riders, these maintenance items can be completed every couple of months. With the bike maintained as below, the rider will have maximum confidence in the operation of his/her machine, allowing him/her to concentrate 100% on riding, rather than on the bike.

1. Wash bike thoroughly

2. Remove rear fender and fuel tank, then dry bike with compressed air, especially:

Front and rear brake calipers/pads

Rear brake pedal linkage pivot points

Rear suspension linkage pivot points

Chain tensioner pivot points

Electricals (coil, wiring, etc.)

Engine

Carburetor

Kick starter pivot point

Gearshift head pivot point

All exposed allen-head bolts (especially front engine mount bolt)

Handlebar and triple-clamp bolts

Handlebar lever perches

Throttle tube interface to handlebar

Kill switch

Foot peg pivot points

Fork seal area

Front axle and bolts

Rear axle and axle nut

3. Change oil (450cc)

4. Remove and thoroughly clean air box; blow dry with compressed air

5. Remove and clean carburetor internal parts

6. Clean and oil air filter; have spare filter cleaned and oiled in plastic bag for 2nd competition day

7. Lube and adjust chain

8. Check coolant level; refill as necessary

9. Release air pressure from front fork breather caps

10. Remove, clean, and grease front brake and clutch levers and perches

11. Remove, clean, and lube throttle tube assembly

12. Lube with WD40:

Foot peg pivot points (must pivot freely)

Gear shifter lever head pivot point

Chain tensioner pivot point

Rear brake pedal linkage pivot points

Kick starter pivot point

13. Check bolt tightness on ALL bolts, front to back, especially:

Rear sprocket bolts

Rear suspension linkage bolts (repack dog-bone bearings every 6 months)

Rear disc bolts

Swing arm bolt

Front and rear engine mount bolts

Front fork brace

Triple clamp bolts

Handlebar clamp bolts

Header pipe bolts

Silencer bolts

Lever perch bolts

Front brake caliper bolts

Front disc bolts

14. Inspect and replace or repair any damaged or excessively worn parts, especially:

Sponsor stickers

Levers

Grips

Foot pegs

Handlebars

Fenders and other plastics

Tires (no leaks; sufficient tread for full weekend of competition)

Correct cable AND HOSE placement (no binding or worn throttle, clutch, brake cables)

15. Ride the bike for 10 minutes to confirm every component functions correctly, especially:

Engine/Carburetor runs cleanly throughout rev range

Fan turns on when motor warms up

Brakes

Kill switch

Never leave home without your kickstart lever!!!!!!

Never rely upon someone else, specially a drunken Spanyard, to do this stuff for you or you may well find yoursel afoot!!!

Enjoy riding your perfectly maintained bike!

Edited by copemech
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I know that is a somewhat plagirized and modified response, yet still very relavent, specially at the tail end. The list should be updated! Yet still relavent.

I think we all know we are not talking about a damn luxery car here, but a somewhat mass produced rock beater of euro origin.

One must pick his own poison here. Most seem a love /hate relationship with any of the lot.

Edited by copemech
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Have just found on a different website, someone describing a similar problem with a 2.9 sherco which turned out to be the roller bearing on the clutch basket. He reckoned the rollers didn't have enough clearance so he honed the outer race by about 0.002" which he reckoned cured it. Is this likely to be a problem? I can't see that it would be when it seems to have just started recently? :unsure:

Oh and please tell me what website that was on :rolleyes:

Best of balance.

Neo

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Loctite is a must with these machines!

Well I changed gearbox oil again, bled clutch, sheared bleed nipple...oooops, and re-adjusted at the lever and at two nationals this weekend I didn't seem to have any problems, apart from it jumping out of second gear - but that's a separate issue!

Hopefully the problem is fixed. I did notice that the gear oil was really dirty and not what I'd expect for how long it has been in there.

The website was thumper talk

Many thanks

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I don't think I will take the time to look for it! :rolleyes:

I just tried... found everything but!

Hi shercogeezer, any chance of a link to that Thumpertalk post?

Best of balance.

Neo

Edited by Neo
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Loctite is a must with these machines!

With exception to the disk mounting bolts I hardly use the stuff <_< ....And I have no trouble.

The only other bolt I know of that comes loose is the one below the seat that holds the ally muffler to the frame.

I have known some folk to use Loctite Red in the past.... And I would personally shoot these people on sight if I could catch em :angry:

Best of balance.

Neo

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