49 replies to this topic

[branc]

I have fitted a wes exhaust system and a new carb as the old one was worn, huge difference in power now and silky smooth.

[Rollox]

I updated my Reflex with a WES exhaust and from Paul Cowley`s shedworks the copy carb and the power bomb header pipe. The carb came with unsigned jets and Paul said that`s main 100 and pilot 42. I found the jetting was too fat and the spark plug was too dark/wet so I changed the jets to main 95 and pilot 40, also the spark plug from standart NGK DR8ES-L to NGK DR7ES or better DPR7EIX-9. That works fine and finally better than stock.
Now the Reflex is drawing from idle speed like an elastic band and revs crisp to the top.
I don´t know whether the pipe alone brings an improvement. Together with WES exhaust and a new carburettor it is a clear improvement.

The new header pipe looks great but with its larger diameter and without a heat shield it`s a real pants-killer. So I use it actually in a crude combat look...

Edited by Rollox, 13 August 2011 - 12:19 PM.

[Sicco]

Hello,

I have been riding a TLR200 fore 3 years now.
I lowered the footrestst, raised the steer, put on new (Betor 400 mm) rear shocks, a new "Wess" exhaust, extended the engine clutch arm and a new 22 mm carburateur.
The "Wess" exhaust really improved power to my TLR, just as the new carburateur.
The new rear shocks impoved the handling and grip.
But it is all very personal.

Picasaweb

Kind regards,

Sicco.

[Motu]

I used some forgettable brand shocks for mine,listed for a TT or XT500 - they were 400mm which was a close enough starting point. I still had the original springs,and with modifications to the pegs and cam ring was able to get the sag right. I drilled the shock to purge the thick oil,fitted a nut and screw...and then filled with 5 weight. They have worked very well for the last 9 years,and have since refilled with ATF with no difference,apart from being much easier to get. I have also dropped the forks 20mm....it handles pretty good for a twinshock. I have an XR200 front wheel,I'd like the original wheel but haven't found one without a bike attached...I don't think the XR front wheel hurts the handling too much.

I've never been happy with the engine,I much prefer a 2 stroke for trials - but it's kinda fun having to ride it more aggressively....powering through stuff where on a 2 stroke you'd have the throttle closed and easing through on the flywheel. I have a standard exhaust and have to yell to observers that I'm coming through it's so quiet. I've never thought it robbed power,but after comments here I might look at making a new system. And some airbox mods.

When I first got the bike I felt the pegs were too high...it felt like they were above the CG and I was wobbling and dabbing all over rocks,it was reacting too much to weight inputs I wasn't aware of. But now I've got used to it and prefer it that way. My feet don't seem to slip off the pegs,so see no need for wider ones.

Edited by Motu, 27 September 2011 - 10:17 AM.

[bashplate]

hi folks, just wondering if anyone has tried the cam advance by 6 degrees mod to gain some extra bottom end? i'm hoping to give it a try on my 200 special, is it possible to slot the original sprocket to get the advance? just looking at it roughly, i reccon it's about 1/2 a tooth on the cam sprocket.at the moment the bike is running very well, and the dreaded 'cough' is virtualy non existant, but feel i could just do with a bit more grunt when trickling along at tickover on rough ground. all advice welcome, cheers trev.

[craig10]

It's a 32 tooth sprocket on the camshaft so half a tooth would be 5.6 degrees, close enough to 6 as you say.

Rather than slot the holes I would re-drill them , just take the position of the original holes wrt a tooth to figure it out. I'd probably recheck the valve to piston clearance using plasticine as well, just to be on the safe side, just cause someone else has done it and it's been ok doesn't mean it will be that way on a different motor.

Unless you know the history of the bike from new or have redone the motor yourself, you never really know for sure what piston / cam / valves etc are in there.

[bashplate]

craig10, on 17 December 2011 - 07:41 PM, said:

It's a 32 tooth sprocket on the camshaft so half a tooth would be 5.6 degrees, close enough to 6 as you say.

Rather than slot the holes I would re-drill them , just take the position of the original holes wrt a tooth to figure it out. I'd probably recheck the valve to piston clearance using plasticine as well, just to be on the safe side, just cause someone else has done it and it's been ok doesn't mean it will be that way on a different motor.

Unless you know the history of the bike from new or have redone the motor yourself, you never really know for sure what piston / cam / valves etc are in there.

thanks for that craig,sound advice. i think i will give it a go at some point....will post the outcome of the results.hoping for a big cheers trev

[mcman56]

bashplate, on 17 December 2011 - 08:36 PM, said:

thanks for that craig,sound advice. i think i will give it a go at some point....will post the outcome of the results.hoping for a big cheers trev

Parts Unlimited sells an adjustable cam sprocket for an ATC200 that fits the TLR for about $12 US. 6 degrees advance adds a very nice boost of power at the bottom end like when blipping the throttle to lift the front wheel. I also tried 9 degrees but it is about the same.

It is also easy to do and can be completed through the little cover. You just have to be careful not to drop the cam chain in the process.

https://www.denniski...8.prd/51218.sku

Edited by mcman56, 01 January 2012 - 04:35 PM.

[bashplate]

(It is also easy to do and can be completed through the little cover. You just have to be careful not to drop the cam chain in the process).


that sounds easy enough....but do i need to remove the alternater rotor to get at the cam chain ajuster to get enough slack in the chain, or is there another way of slackening it?

[TLrider]

The cam chain adjuster is under the black rubber cap behind the cylinder on the left side. Remove the cap, remove the 6mm bolt(10mm head), loosen the 14mm nut but do not remove it, just crack it loose. Take a 5mm allen wrench or other suitable probe that will fit in a 6mm threaded hole and stick it in the hole from which you removed the 6mm bolt. While pushing down with the allen wrench you will feel resistance from a spring, this is the tension created by the cam chain tensioner, push down as far as possible, tighten the 14mm nut while maintaing pressure on the probe. This should stretch the tensioner and slacken the chain. If not repeat the process until the chain is slack. Replace the 6mm bolt.
Take a small piece of wire and loop thru the cam chain to prevent dropping it. Adjust or swap your sprocket. Remove the anti-drop wire.
To adjust your cam chain do not remove or loosen the 6mm bolt for this procedure, loosen the 14 mm nut, this will allow the tensioner, which is a bow under tension, to 'automatically' tension itself, tighten the nut. This is preliminary tension, spin the crank by hand to make sure the chain is seated and everything turns and your adjustment stays where you intend it. Repeat the process if necessary. When you are confident all is well start the engine and loosen the tensioner nut, now the chain is 'automatically' tensioned while the engine is running. Tighten the nut, replace the rubber cap.

Scooter

[bashplate]

thanks for that

[TLrider]

bashplate, on 24 January 2012 - 09:34 AM, said:

thanks for that

You're welcome. No warranty expressed or implied

Edited by TLrider, 24 January 2012 - 06:01 PM.

[quickmick25]

Hi,

I like to change (lower...) the footrest position on my Tlr 200,could anyone tell me what's the best position for them??

[twinshocknut]

quickmick25, on 13 February 2012 - 04:39 PM, said:

Hi,

I like to change (lower...) the footrest position on my Tlr 200,could anyone tell me what's the best position for them??

there is a weld on kit made by someone to reposition them but i cant remember who but 25mm down & 25mm back is about right

[copemech]

Seems them at :rolleyes:Shedworks.net know a few thing about them.