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Another Montesa 348 Clutch Question


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#1 brind31

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Posted 22 September 2011 - 05:38 PM

Has anybody tried removing a couple of springs from the clutch? I know it is likely to slip higher up the gears etc but should make the lever lighter to operate. Maybe a little slip would be good as mine is rather 'snatchy/grabby' when hot.

Just wondered if anyone has tried it or anything like it before i commit.

Cheers

#2 B40RT

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Posted 22 September 2011 - 09:09 PM

Does it not kick start through the clutch ?
Cleaning a section is like setting fire to Joanna Lumleys shoes.

(.)(.) + £ = ( . )( . )


#3 brind31

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Posted 22 September 2011 - 10:07 PM

View PostB40RT, on 22 September 2011 - 09:09 PM, said:

Does it not kick start through the clutch ?

No only in neutral

#4 belldane

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Posted 23 September 2011 - 04:02 AM

Should not do that. Check that the clutch cable is not frayed somewhere and is well lubricated. Also check the condition of the clutch plates as they may be worn. I have a 348 and it is as smooth as silk. What sort of oil have you got in the clutch side of things?

#5 feetupfun

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Posted 23 September 2011 - 06:35 AM

About the 348 clutch springs, the 348 clutch as standard is not far off slipping in the top two gears so the answer is no to less springs with standard plates. I found out a few years ago that there are other plates available that will fit that are the more modern type with friction material, which in theory should allow for less force from the springs for the same torque transmission. I bought some of those plates (Honda CB125 from memory)with the intention of trying them but have not gotten around to trying them yet. There are a couple of potential drawbacks with this approach though:
The CB125 plates are quite a bit thicker than the steel 348 plates, so for the plate pack to end up the same overall thickness, there will be fewer plates, which may mean no overall benefit in torque capability relative to pressure plate force due to the reduced effective surface area.
The CB125 plates have only half the number of drive tabs that the 348 plates have, and are made of aluminium, so the edges of the CB125 plates may get deformed against the thin steel basket fingers of the 348 clutch or might even shear off.

back on the rough engagement, try heavier oil, it worked on mine. I started with a light gearbox oil (castrol VMX80) and it sometimes did protest noisily just as the clutch engaged. I then tried car diff oil (non-extreme pressure additive type) (80-140 I think) and it has been terrific since then. I agree with belldane that if everything is working well the clutch action is very smooth and I find it does not drag when disengaged. The only reason I am interested in trying the CB125 plates is to reduce the lever pressure which at my age I find a bit tiring in tight sections.
You put my Basil in the ratatouille?

#6 brind31

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Posted 23 September 2011 - 07:28 AM

Thanks for the replies guys.

I started with light gear oil in, on last oul changed i replaced it with ATF Dextron. This is a massive improvement over the light oil. I have read about people putting EP90 in may give that a try next.

Thanks again for your help and advice.

#7 B40RT

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Posted 23 September 2011 - 07:29 AM

View Postbrind31, on 22 September 2011 - 10:07 PM, said:

No only in neutral

Sorry, what I meant was the kick start goes through the clutch ?

So might slip when kicking over ?
Cleaning a section is like setting fire to Joanna Lumleys shoes.

(.)(.) + £ = ( . )( . )


#8 brind31

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Posted 23 September 2011 - 08:40 AM

View PostB40RT, on 23 September 2011 - 07:29 AM, said:

Sorry, what I meant was the kick start goes through the clutch ?

So might slip when kicking over ?

Ahh good point. Good idea in theory, bad in practice.

Oh well glad I asked before commiting now!!

Cheers.





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