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Oset not working


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#1 trix

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Posted 05 January 2012 - 10:57 AM

Hi, got the oset out the other day, its been sat in the shed for 6 month and its been really cold here in the UK, tried charging them and the green light comes on to say there done after a few mins, took both batteries out and stuck them on my optimate 4 one by one for around 12 hours each and still nothing, no lights, no click of the relay, nothing, checked all the wiring too.

The batteries are 4 year old so they could do with been replaced anyway but just want to make sure there dead and its not something else, so any tests I can do on the batteries with the multimeter ? I've never used it before.


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#2 telecat

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Posted 05 January 2012 - 11:07 AM

They are quite robust animals but it sounds like they have been sat discharged for too long. I'd contact a nearby dealer and see if they can help. TrialsUK are one of the biggest but OSET have dealers throughout the Country.
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#3 feetupfun

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Posted 05 January 2012 - 11:22 AM

Hi, got the oset out the other day, its been sat in the shed for 6 month and its been really cold here in the UK, tried charging them and the green light comes on to say there done after a few mins, took both batteries out and stuck them on my optimate 4 one by one for around 12 hours each and still nothing, no lights, no click of the relay, nothing, checked all the wiring too.

The batteries are 4 year old so they could do with been replaced anyway but just want to make sure there dead and its not something else, so any tests I can do on the batteries with the multimeter ? I've never used it before.

Battery shops will usually do a discharge test for free. They apply a standard load and measure the voltage with the load applied. You could probably make something using a load like both filaments of a 12V car headlight and measure the voltage across the battery under that load. If it sags much below 12V it is a fail. It should be about 13.5 volts with no load on a charged 12V SLA battery which is what comes standard in an OSET.
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#4 gwhy

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Posted 05 January 2012 - 07:31 PM

First thing is put your voltmeter onto dc volts 0-20v ( if this is the type it is ), then put red meter lead onto the + of one of the battery's and the black meter lead onto the - of the battery the meter should diplay a voltage of around 12.8-13.2v for a charged battery , start with that and report back what voltages are ( if any )

#5 samy

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 01:15 AM

Here you go

Posted Image


You don't want to go below 50% for a normal 12 v battery. I use this guide for the 12v battery in my camper trailer.

#6 trix

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 01:30 PM

Cheers for the help, just tested both and both are 12.87v each, hmmm what now ?

#7 pete_scorpa3

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 06:04 PM

Just try connecting the charger, switch it on at the mains and see if it makes any difference. Do the 'ignition' lights come on now?

#8 gwhy

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 07:36 PM

connect all the battery's as they should be in the bike then unplug the thick red and black wires from the controller ( where the battery plugs in ) then with your meter on dc volts measure the total voltage coming out of the connector to the controller ( from the battery's ) , you dont say what voltage the bike is if its a 36v bike you should have a total voltage of around 38v if its a 24v bike then it should be around 25.5v. be careful doing this as not to short out the red and black leads. If you dont have these voltages present or they are much lower then check all connectors from the battery to the controller and also the fuse connection. If the voltage is there then re-connect the battery to the controller and with your meter still on dc volts find a convenient spot to connect the red and black leads of the meter to the battery red and black wires on the bike turn the bike on, the voltage should not drop when just plugged into the controller ( without no throttle ) . let us know what results you get.

#9 trix

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 12:27 PM

Ok the bikes a 24v, I've replaced the fuse.

I did both of your tests gwhy and both came back at 25.6v, what's the next step ?

Gave all the wire connections a tug and checked them over, no lights come on, no relay click, nothing.

Cheers for the help.

#10 feetupfun

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 01:58 PM

I've had two electrical failures on our 24V OSET. One was the keyswitch relay had failed. The relay is a commonly available item at auto electrical shops. If you are not hearing the relay click when you turn the key, it could be the keyswitch failed or the keyswitch relay failed.
The other failure was when the speed-limiting potentiometer failed. It can be disconnected if your kid is OK with using full power, which is how I got around the problem.
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#11 gwhy

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 02:15 PM

I've had two electrical failures on our 24V OSET. One was the keyswitch relay had failed. The relay is a commonly available item at auto electrical shops. If you are not hearing the relay click when you turn the key, it could be the keyswitch failed or the keyswitch relay failed.
The other failure was when the speed-limiting potentiometer failed. It can be disconnected if your kid is OK with using full power, which is how I got around the problem.


If the relay or the keyswitch was not working then I dont think you will get the 25v voltage going into the controller. And i dont know for sure, but if the limiting pot was faulty then I assum that the light will still come on.

Assuming he has got the 25v ( going into the controller ) with it all connected and the bike swithched on but no lights on ( is there a battery indicator light on the throttle housing ? ), if there is no light and you have 25v going into the controller then this could indicate that the problem could be the throttle connection (or the throttle itself) to the controller, can you post a pic of the controller connections with it all wired up just incase Im over looking something. Some E-bike controllers require 2 different voltages into the controller for it to work.

#12 trix

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 03:13 PM

Cheers again for the help, the speed limiting potentiometer failed when I first bought it so I took that out.

How can I bypass the key ?

Just took some pics, If you need more let me know...

http://s880.photobuc...Trixlad/Public/

The yellow circles are where I took the voltages from.

The red and black going directly into the controller, should I cut them slightly and take a voltage from them ?

Edited by Trix, 08 January 2012 - 03:18 PM.


#13 gwhy

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 03:52 PM

I have just looked at the pics: here are a couple of things you can test.
with your meter on dc volts measure the voltage on the thin red and black wires at the relay, with the keyswitch on and battery's connected you should read around 12v on these wires. If you have no voltage at these points when all switched on then check the wiring to and from the keyswitch and also the keyswich. To check the keyswitch: disconnect the battery and put your meter on ohms there should be a red wire into and a red wire ( edit: looks like if the black wire is switched from the keyswitch so it maybe black wires in and out of key switch) out of the keyswitch put the meter probes one on each of these red wires and you should get 0 ohms with the switch on and a open circuit with the switch off. If the switch do not show 0 ohms then its more than likely that the switch has gone.
If the keyswitch is working ok then you will have 12v at the relay. the thick red wires on the relay needs to be joined together to make the bike work so if you have 12v at the relay then the relay should click, switching the contacts which connects the 2 thick red wires together. To Test relay operation put meter back to dc volts re-connect the battery and connect black meter probe to the black wire on battery and the red probe on thick red wire from relay ( one of the thick red wires on the relay will have 25v all the time the other thick wire will have 0v when keyswitch is off and 25v when keyswitch is on ) if there is no switched 25v on the relay then the relay will need replacing.

Edited by gwhy, 08 January 2012 - 03:58 PM.


#14 trix

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 05:08 PM

Ok the big fat red wires on the relay, black on battery cable, one of the red cables does give 25v with the key on and 0v with the key off, the other red cable gives 0v either way.

The relays 6 quid so Ill get one ordered tomorrow.

The key switch, from what I can work out is just a simple switch, can I replace it with one of these...

http://www.ebay.co.u...#ht_2497wt_1396

Really appreciate the help.

#15 gwhy

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 06:31 PM

Ok the big fat red wires on the relay, black on battery cable, one of the red cables does give 25v with the key on and 0v with the key off, the other red cable gives 0v either way.

The relays 6 quid so Ill get one ordered tomorrow.

The key switch, from what I can work out is just a simple switch, can I replace it with one of these...

http://www.ebay.co.u...#ht_2497wt_1396

Really appreciate the help.



yes the keyswitch can replaced with the mc kill switch.

do you get the 12v or so when the keyswitch is on to the thin red and black wires on the relay? if you do then its a fair bet it is the relay at fault if you dont get the 12v on the thin wires then its the keyswitch ( or wiring ) at fault.




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