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Bantam Rear Hub


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#1 Kensu358

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 10:09 PM

Hello,

Can anybody specify the width of a Bantam D14 4 rear hub and/or specify the part number?

Had got a hold of a Bantam rear hub to put in my trials Cub, with the idea it is a bit wider/stronger wheel. Ordered all the parts from CWC accordingly, build it up and now spokes are sticking out inside the rim for about 4-5mm... so am a bit baffled what went wrong. Hope someone can tell if my D14 4 hub is not what I bought if for (only have a bunch of Cub part catalogues) and suggestions for solutions?

Thank you in advance!

#2 hewson

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 10:23 PM

Spokes are often sent a bit longer , if everything else is ok , just cut and file the extra off ....

#3 totalshell

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 11:22 PM

i'd very much take a 40 year old parts book with a pinch of salt. if you ve built a wheel up i'd put it in the swing arm and check that the sproket alignmentment is spot on. the only way to do this is with a steel straight edge ( you be amazed how far out doing it by eye can be.. yes we thought we were good and thought it was spot on)

the guys at cwc are normally spot on. i normally send them a spoke from each side for reference and the come back 100%.
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#4 Kensu358

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Posted 26 January 2012 - 07:05 AM

View Posttotalshell, on 25 January 2012 - 11:22 PM, said:

i'd very much take a 40 year old parts book with a pinch of salt. if you ve built a wheel up i'd put it in the swing arm and check that the sproket alignmentment is spot on. the only way to do this is with a steel straight edge ( you be amazed how far out doing it by eye can be.. yes we thought we were good and thought it was spot on)

the guys at cwc are normally spot on. i normally send them a spoke from each side for reference and the come back 100%.

Well that is exactly why I am asking if anyone knows if there was a differnt in width on the later Bantam hubs? Or what would be the part number that should be on it if I have a correct Bantam hub. I used CWC a couple of times, and they where always spot on if i laced the wheel according to the factory off-sets. Would have assumed when then fitting it in a CUB swingarm and trying to maximize off-set for the chain that I would end-up with too long spokes on one side that would need a minimum of grinding.

As they usually are spot on, I rather first check that I truly got the part for what I bought it for. Afterall a hub goes for about £20, while the spokeset just set me back £60 and the rim another £100. Seems more sensible then to first think if I should source another / the correct hub if that matters, rather than take away half of the treaded area on the spokes...The tread goes only for about 10mm, so taking up to 5 away from that? Would this leave enough strenght?

#5 totalshell

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Posted 26 January 2012 - 08:40 AM

your issue here is your attempting to use 40 yr old documentation from an underfunded/ bankrupt business as a datum point to build a bantam hub that you want to increase the offset of to the maximum so that it will fit in a triumph swingarm. you ll find the factory part no.s were often just re used and although the part may have the same function/ description and part no. it may be different in dimension

bike building has to have compromises and wheel building one hub suitable for trials and lining it up in another swingarm is always going to involve compromise.. work with what you have if the wheel as you ve built it fits the swing arm and the clearance at the tyre is okay and the sprocket is lined up then you can simply cut the spokes to the most appropriate length.. take em out and lengthen the thread a little if youd like

good luck
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#6 Monty_Jon

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Posted 26 January 2012 - 08:44 AM

Have a word with central wheels, I’d say something is wrong + it won’t leave a lot of thread for future adjustments <_<

You could lengthen the thread, but CWC roll the threads so you would end up with a poor quality spoke

Measure twice, and cut once!

Edited by Monty_Jon, 26 January 2012 - 08:49 AM.


#7 B40RT

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Posted 26 January 2012 - 10:04 AM

View Posttotalshell, on 25 January 2012 - 11:22 PM, said:

i'd very much take a 40 year old parts book with a pinch of salt. if you ve built a wheel up i'd put it in the swing arm and check that the sproket alignmentment is spot on. the only way to do this is with a steel straight edge

Or you might find it easier to get a channel over the sprockets as there isnt much room for a straight edge.

Look here http://www.diy.com/n...-steel_hardware
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#8 GII

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Posted 29 January 2012 - 10:49 PM

View PostB40RT, on 26 January 2012 - 10:04 AM, said:

Or you might find it easier to get a channel over the sprockets as there isnt much room for a straight edge.

Look here http://www.diy.com/n...-steel_hardware

What a good idea!
Gordon

#9 Old trials fanatic

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Posted 30 January 2012 - 10:03 AM

View PostB40RT, on 26 January 2012 - 10:04 AM, said:

Or you might find it easier to get a channel over the sprockets as there isnt much room for a straight edge.

Look here http://www.diy.com/n...-steel_hardware
Brilliant idea. Wish i'd thought of that. So simple. Guess whos off to the local stockholder :thumbup:
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#10 B40RT

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Posted 30 January 2012 - 02:29 PM

View PostGII, on 29 January 2012 - 10:49 PM, said:

What a good idea!


View PostOld trials fanatic, on 30 January 2012 - 10:03 AM, said:

Brilliant idea. Wish i'd thought of that. So simple. Guess whos off to the local stockholder :thumbup:


Cant take credit, Andy Johnstone's the man who told me. I do love simple/effective solutions.

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