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digga

2012 Ossa Rear Wheel Removal

19 posts in this topic

Hi there guys,well i finally have my new 2012 TR280i in the garage,if it ever stops raining i will be able to take it for a ride.Anyway getting to the chase,i went to remove the rear wheel for a wee look and check the axle for lube,drooped the chain,removed the axle and proceeded to slide the rear wheel back and what do you know,the heads of the rear disc bolts catch the inside of the calliper assembley, am i missing something here,i have had many bikes over the last 30 years but have not had this before,surely you dont have to remove some disc bolts first?

Peter.

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Remove the disc protector and lift the wheel straight up. The caliper comes off with the wheel. When you install, place the caliper on the disc first then drop the wheel straight down. You will see the other end of the caliper housing fits nicely in the hub which allows it to fit properly.

cheers

Edited by borus

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Remove the disc protector and lift the wheel straight up. The caliper comes off with the wheel. When you install, place the caliper on the disc first then drop the wheel straight down. You will see the other end of the caliper housing fits nicely in the hub which allows it to fit properly.

cheers

Hi borus,thanks for that,i was driving to a mates place today and the thought crossed my mind that it may come out that way,some bikes the locating pin/dowel that the calipper slides on has flats so you can only slide the wheel straight back,not upwards,but not the Ossa obviously. Thanks for that,i just have to get the knack of starting this sucker,its got zero hours on it at the moment and does not want to start with any less than a dozen kicks!

Cheers.

Edited by digga

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i took mine in yesterday for remaping and i spoke to the

dealer about i was having problems starting from cold

(about 6-8 kicks) he tried and it fired up in 3. what you

need to do is 2 sloppy kicks and then take the slack out

of the kick start and then jump on it, i tried again last

night when it was cold again and it started 3rd kick, i am

sure i just havent been kick it hard enough. when its hot

its 1 or 2 kicks max

jsp

Edited by jsp

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Hi borus,thanks for that,i was driving to a mates place today and the thought crossed my mind that it may come out that way,some bikes the locating pin/dowel that the calipper slides on has flats so you can only slide the wheel straight back,not upwards,but not the Ossa obviously. Thanks for that,i just have to get the knack of starting this sucker,its got zero hours on it at the moment and does not want to start with any less than a dozen kicks!

Cheers.

Glad it helps. it's rather easy that way. I think because the Ossa is unique there are some tricks to working on them etc. Once riders get the knack to starting they're really no issue. The latest map appears to have more power everywhere and revs freer, same starting and maybe a little higher tickerover. JMO "welcome to the future" :)

cheers

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the futures bright the futures GREEN

jsp

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the futures bright the futures GREEN

jsp

:thumbup:

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:thumbup:

Thanks you guys,yes your correct about the bike being unique and it appears there is certain ways to remove different things,(like the air-cleaner)thats a challenge,its great to see some genuine interest and mateship in the Ossa community,have not really experienced that with other brands of bikes,i guess i have never been a member of a forum either,only joined a few months back to ask some questions about the Ossa when trying to decide between it and the Gasser. Next question,how close to the frame is your kickstarter in the (folded away posistion)? Mine is nearly touching,but i assume if i were to shift it on the internal splines it will be way too forward?

Cheers again guys.

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Thanks you guys,yes your correct about the bike being unique and it appears there is certain ways to remove different things,(like the air-cleaner)thats a challenge,its great to see some genuine interest and mateship in the Ossa community,have not really experienced that with other brands of bikes,i guess i have never been a member of a forum either,only joined a few months back to ask some questions about the Ossa when trying to decide between it and the Gasser. Next question,how close to the frame is your kickstarter in the (folded away position)? Mine is nearly touching,but i assume if i were to shift it on the internal splines it will be way too forward?

Cheers again guys.

I've not run into any kick start installations where it was close to the frame.

IMG_3695.jpg

Here is an installation guide - http://www.ossacanada.ca/Ossa%20TR280i%20Clutch%20Case%20Installation2.pdf

Hope this helps - cheers

Edited by borus

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I've not run into any kick start installations where it was close to the frame.

IMG_3695.jpg

Here is an installation guide - http://www.ossacanada.ca/Ossa%20TR280i%20Clutch%20Case%20Installation2.pdf

Hope this helps - cheers

Hi Borus,thanks for all that info and pics,now i can see how it works,as it wears into the rubber stop the clearance will increase i think,mine is about 1.5mm of the frame at the moment.

Cheers.

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new bike is a bit more kicks, after some hours run ..... the bike will easier

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had a strange day today

i noticed the snail cam on the brake side wasnt on the

swinging arm stop, tried to tighten up the bolt but still

no better, you could pull the wheel and move it.

i ve now worked out that for some strange reason

the rear wheel spindle is tightening on the

snail cams but that still isnt enough, i ve shortened

the spindle by 2mm and now ever thing seems ok.

but this has got me stumped as to how or

why this has happened. any ideas ?

jsp

Edited by jsp

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any photos ?

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sorry no, do you think the spindle could have started to

stretch ? its always been hard to stop the brake side snail

cam from spinning when to tried to tighten or loosen the wheel

but with me shortening the spindle its stoped doing that now.

you could see a mark on the back of the snail cam which matched

the wheel spindle, so when it was tight it was like the spindle

was slightly longer than the gap in the swinging arm and it wasnt

tightening the wheel fully. if that makes sense

jsp

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sorry no, do you think the spindle could have started to stretch ? its always been hard to stop the brake side snail

cam from spinning when to tried to tighten or loosen the wheel but with me shortening the spindle its stoped doing that now. you could see a mark on the back of the snail cam which matched

the wheel spindle, so when it was tight it was like the spindle was slightly longer than the gap in the swinging arm and it wasnt tightening the wheel fully. if that makes sense

jsp

That sounds really weird to me too. Are you sure that you didn't leave out a wheel spacer or washer last time yo took off the rear wheel? .... Or have the snail cam's gone concave?

When you say you "shortened the spindle by 2mm" did you cut/grind the length of the spindle? .... Why didn't you just use a fat washer? ... And I can't figire out why that would stop the snail cam's turning?

My guess is that somthing is still not right if you had to do this.

Best of balance.

Neo

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