24 replies to this topic

[armour]

Has anyone had much success trying this?

I was thinking it either needs the welds ground back and split open or a hole cut in the side.

Neither job looks that easy to do neatly.

I have a friend who is an alloy welder so not to worried about having it put back together, just getting it to that stage i'm not sure about.

Trying to decide if the the hassle outweighs the cost of a new one.

Cheers Al

[copemech]

---

Don't want these Ads? Why not help support TC and sign-up as a Trials Central Supporter

[copemech]

Armour, on 29 January 2012 - 11:22 PM, said:

Has anyone had much success trying this?

I was thinking it either needs the welds ground back and split open or a hole cut in the side.

Neither job looks that easy to do neatly.

I have a friend who is an alloy welder so not to worried about having it put back together, just getting it to that stage i'm not sure about.

Trying to decide if the the hassle outweighs the cost of a new one.

Cheers Al

Repacking Has been done using methods mentioned by folks that like to experiment, however a new one is perferred.

One may soak it on petrol and flush it out good and use a wire brush to help. This is ok if the packing is still ok. Air dry it after!

[armour]

copemech, on 30 January 2012 - 04:29 AM, said:

Repacking Has been done using methods mentioned by folks that like to experiment, however a new one is perferred.

One may soak it on petrol and flush it out good and use a wire brush to help. This is ok if the packing is still ok. Air dry it after!

I might try and flush it through, but I think it will end up with a new one.

Thanks for the help.

Al

[shercorockman]

Hi, I repacked my 2011 sherco last week. It was relatively simple to do. On the back of the exhaust between the end and the bracket, I cut a hole approximately 12cm long and around 7cm wide. Then cut a further two slits along the bottom along the two shorter sides at the bottom and bent back the part just cut which gave me better access for raking all of the old packing out. After this, it's just a case of lots off digging. The whole exhaust is not filled with packing, there is a seond section with wire wool which you don't need to bother with. When I got all of the old packing out, I gave it a good clean especially the central metal core. Then, fill it with packing. Bend the metal back, and place the part from the hole back in. Then I bent a piece of 2mm aluminium sheet around the top, then down the side. Drill some holes for pop rivets, put some heatproof silicone on, then pop rivet it up. It's worked fine, no leaks and sounds a heap better. The advantage is that I can replace it without more cutting and welding every time. I can take some pictures if you want so that you can see where I cut, I'm not the best at describing things!
Thanks,
Sam

[armour]

Cheers Sam sounds good.

I'm going to have a go at mine I think but will buy a new one if needed.

Al

[tntrials]

So there is a combination of steel wool packing and softer fabric like packing? Would it be better to just use stainless steel wool packing for all of it?

I've also read that just burning out all of the oil and opening up the perforated cores really helps too.

What about any kind of add on or different muffler that will fit in the same location?

[copemech]

TNTrials, on 30 March 2012 - 11:12 PM, said:

So there is a combination of steel wool packing and softer fabric like packing? Would it be better to just use stainless steel wool packing for all of it?

I've also read that just burning out all of the oil and opening up the perforated cores really helps too.

What about any kind of add on or different muffler that will fit in the same location?

Not anything else to fit. Trick is to not let them get too grunged up.

[tntrials]

copemech, on 31 March 2012 - 03:38 AM, said:

Not anything else to fit. Trick is to not let them get too grunged up.

Too late for that!

I suppose the silencer assembly is also the expansion chamber too so it is prolly tuned for the engine as well as making it a bit quieter. Mine is a bit dented on the outside face so maybe it's time for a mod.

[jtrials31]

TNTrials, on 31 March 2012 - 11:46 AM, said:

Too late for that!

I suppose the silencer assembly is also the expansion chamber too so it is prolly tuned for the engine as well as making it a bit quieter. Mine is a bit dented on the outside face so maybe it's time for a mod.

Well from what it says under your name it seems you have an 01' which doesn't have a guard over the exhaust and makes it really very easy to dent. What I did on mine was replace it with an 02' up style that has the guard on it. Of course wait till either your packing is shot or it's unuseable to upgrade so you can kill two birds with one stone on that.

[copemech]

JTrials31, on 04 April 2012 - 03:18 PM, said:

Well from what it says under your name it seems you have an 01' which doesn't have a guard over the exhaust and makes it really very easy to dent. What I did on mine was replace it with an 02' up style that has the guard on it. Of course wait till either your packing is shot or it's unuseable to upgrade so you can kill two birds with one stone on that.

Missed you at TTC!

[jtrials31]

---

Don't want these Ads? Why not help support TC and sign-up as a Trials Central Supporter

[jtrials31]

copemech, on 06 April 2012 - 02:55 AM, said:

Missed you at TTC!

Yeah, didn't make it down there. Dad completely forgot about it. haha I told him we should have just gone down there to hang out for a bit

[tntrials]

I just picked up a FMF silencer for a '94 KX 125 I hope to mod and stick on the end of my OE Sherco silencer/muffler. (Sorry, couldn't link or post just the picture)

http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1497.l2649


I thought I'd have to have the FMF tubing expanded a bit to fit over the 1.25" OD Sherco tip but the FMF tubing is about 1" OD and I think it will slip inside the Sherco tip, once I cut it square.
I think I read that the rear muffler/chamber/silencer on my '01 125 is the same part number as the 250 and 290. This makes me think the tuning for Trials power is not as critical as MX or high revving engines. I bring this up because the OD of the silencer piping for the KX125 is the same size as the ID of the tip coming out of my 125 muffler. I'm sure a KX125 makes more horsepower than my Sherco 125 and I think that the size was a compromise to cover 125/250/290. I think the slightly smaller diameter and longer length just may help bottom end as well as taking some of the bark off of the note.

[tntrials]

JTrials31, on 04 April 2012 - 03:18 PM, said:

Well from what it says under your name it seems you have an 01' which doesn't have a guard over the exhaust and makes it really very easy to dent. What I did on mine was replace it with an 02' up style that has the guard on it. Of course wait till either your packing is shot or it's unuseable to upgrade so you can kill two birds with one stone on that.

I'll have to make a bracket/guard combo to keep my new silencer in place. Where did you find a newer style rear muffler? The ones I find are pretty expensive and overseas so shipping on top of the cost. I know, wahhhh.

[copemech]

TNTrials, on 10 April 2012 - 07:18 PM, said:

I'll have to make a bracket/guard combo to keep my new silencer in place. Where did you find a newer style rear muffler? The ones I find are pretty expensive and overseas so shipping on top of the cost. I know, wahhhh.

Doubtfull this will ever work as there is nothing much to attach it to. At best it will look like a bulls ass sewn up with a logchain.

Parts are available in the US through your local dealer or ShercoUSA, or RYPUSA in KY, I would expect a new muffler to be around $250 ish. Do a search or if you need more doo tell. 800-607-8742 life is good! Prolly 2 days away from you via UPS.

It takes a lot of work and Tig welding precision to cut the welds and go back as original. Cost prohibitive. Yes I suppose if one had some basic skills, one could cut out the backsides of the two chambers and properly re- pack with steel wool and glass packing, Fabricate proper closure plates that overlap the holes cut and rivit them on using high temp sealer to seal them off. It has been done. Pick your poison!

Cheers,

[tntrials]

copemech, on 11 April 2012 - 02:57 AM, said:

At best it will look like a bulls ass sewn up with a logchain.

This is the exact look I am going for! Awesome!

copemech, on 11 April 2012 - 02:57 AM, said:

Parts are available in the US through your local dealer or ShercoUSA, or RYPUSA in KY, I would expect a new muffler to be around $250 ish. Do a search or if you need more doo tell. 800-607-8742 life is good! Prolly 2 days away from you via UPS.

It takes a lot of work and Tig welding precision to cut the welds and go back as original. Cost prohibitive. Yes I suppose if one had some basic skills, one could cut out the backsides of the two chambers and properly re- pack with steel wool and glass packing, Fabricate proper closure plates that overlap the holes cut and rivit them on using high temp sealer to seal them off. It has been done. Pick your poison!

Cheers,

I guess that price isn't too bad. How long do new ones usually stay quiet-er?

Might you know of a thread or link that would have pictures of one of these mufflers opened up? Two chambers etc. or have you seen inside and might explain how it is laid out?