Jump to content

 

Flywheel Removal


  • You cannot reply to this topic
4 replies to this topic

#1 CMC84

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 33 posts
  • Location:East Ayrshire
  • Bike:Gas Gas, Bultaco

Posted 03 February 2012 - 05:08 PM

How can I get my flywheel off without having to take the bike to the shop?

I've got a 2 arm puller somewhere in the garage, would that do it?

Gonna stick on a new condenser and points tomorrow, see if that gets her running a bit better...

#2 bondy

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 426 posts
  • Location:liverpool
  • Bike:bultaco sherpa 350

Posted 03 February 2012 - 05:39 PM

View PostCMC84, on 03 February 2012 - 05:08 PM, said:

How can I get my flywheel off without having to take the bike to the shop?

I've got a 2 arm puller somewhere in the garage, would that do it?

Gonna stick on a new condenser and points tomorrow, see if that gets her running a bit better...
hi the flyweels arnt easy to remove if you havant got the right tool. not sure about the to arm puller but ud be beter of buying a flyweel puller from bultaco uk. and a flyweel holder to take the center nut of these cost about a tenner each money well spent if you plan on keeping the bike. you could try your puller what you have but i couldnt tell you if this would work. back in the day they used to tap it off with a hammer but i dont recamend doing this incase you do damage hope this helps

#3 sherpagorri

    New Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 16 posts

Posted 03 February 2012 - 08:23 PM

DonŽt doubt it, buy a flyweel puller, they are cheap and if your sherpa is fitted with points youŽll use it often.

#4 copemech

    Advanced Member

  • Site Supporter
  • 8,063 posts
  • Location:TeXaS
  • Bike:Sherco
  • Club:NTTA, TXTC

Posted 04 February 2012 - 03:04 AM

If you don't have the stuff, including proper micrometer or dial guage, best off taking to shop or you will be sorry! :rolleyes:
Ride it Like it was one of your old Girlfriends, If you still remember how!

#5 CMC84

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 33 posts
  • Location:East Ayrshire
  • Bike:Gas Gas, Bultaco

Posted 10 February 2012 - 01:20 PM

Copemech, I didn't think it would be that tough? The correct timing must be in the region of plus or minus a few dergrees rotation from where it has been scribed on the casing, and the points gap needs set 2-3mm (approx) before TDC. admittedly ive never done it, but is it that difficult?





1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users