Speedo
#1
Posted 04 February 2012 - 08:02 PM
#2
Posted 04 February 2012 - 08:58 PM
bondy, on 04 February 2012 - 08:02 PM, said:
Best way to mount the speedo drive is still the rear, for mounting the cable, there should be welded steel ring (loop) near the mount for the side where you have to feed-trough the cable. (I believe that is the one you mentioned already in your posting).
Then there should be a second steel ring (loop) on the right side where the bash plate is mounted where you again should feed-trough the cable, see in the pic:
From then its up to you if you want to mount the speedo on the top of the upper fork clamp or at the left side of the front engine mount. The first solution is much better readable, the seond better hided.
Standard was the top mount, but many riders back then changed the position down to the left of the front engine mount because the speedo was better hided there and this position was standard with the older models up to 1974 I believe so you could simply order the bracket for this mount as a spare part.
For the top yoke nut I take a big ratchet socket for the yoke for the bearings I use a special spanner, you can take a small chisel too, but use it very carefully.
#3
Posted 05 February 2012 - 06:04 PM
PSchrauber, on 04 February 2012 - 08:58 PM, said:
Then there should be a second steel ring (loop) on the right side where the bash plate is mounted where you again should feed-trough the cable, see in the pic:
From then its up to you if you want to mount the speedo on the top of the upper fork clamp or at the left side of the front engine mount. The first solution is much better readable, the seond better hided.
Standard was the top mount, but many riders back then changed the position down to the left of the front engine mount because the speedo was better hided there and this position was standard with the older models up to 1974 I believe so you could simply order the bracket for this mount as a spare part.
For the top yoke nut I take a big ratchet socket for the yoke for the bearings I use a special spanner, you can take a small chisel too, but use it very carefully.
#4
Posted 05 February 2012 - 06:23 PM
bondy, on 05 February 2012 - 06:04 PM, said:
#5
Posted 05 February 2012 - 06:55 PM
bondy, on 05 February 2012 - 06:04 PM, said:
We call it a Nutspanner = noth spanner/tensioner.
Looks like this for example:

Here the page I found the one above on a US page,
(the German tool sites are maybe a little bit confusing),
so you might find something similar in the UK:
www.MotionPro.com
You can use them for some rear shocks too.
#6
Posted 05 February 2012 - 07:25 PM
bondy, on 05 February 2012 - 06:23 PM, said:
If you want to mount the speedo at the upper "yokes" = forkclamp then you need the speedo mount, this piece works as a washer and will prevent any damage.
If you don't want to mount the speedo up there; instead mount the speedo to left of the front engine mount then you can place a little self made washer between nut and upper fork clamp to prevent damage.
Size of the washer: inner diameter: 25,5mm outer diameter: 40mm, thickness around 2,00 mm aluminium or 1,00 - 1,50 mm stainless steel
would be OK. This is what I did, (sadly no pictures), as I will mount my speedo near the front engine mount.
#7
Posted 05 February 2012 - 08:03 PM
PSchrauber, on 05 February 2012 - 06:55 PM, said:
Looks like this for example:

Here the page I found the one above on a US page,
(the German tool sites are maybe a little bit confusing),
so you might find something similar in the UK:
www.MotionPro.com
You can use them for some rear shocks too.
#8
Posted 05 February 2012 - 08:13 PM
PSchrauber, on 05 February 2012 - 07:25 PM, said:
If you don't want to mount the speedo up there; instead mount the speedo to left of the front engine mount then you can place a little self made washer between nut and upper fork clamp to prevent damage.
Size of the washer: inner diameter: 25,5mm outer diameter: 40mm, thickness around 2,00 mm aluminium or 1,00 - 1,50 mm stainless steel
would be OK. This is what I did, (sadly no pictures), as I will mount my speedo near the front engine mount.
#9
Posted 05 February 2012 - 09:16 PM
bondy, on 05 February 2012 - 08:13 PM, said:
I believe there is not enough guidance for the speedo cable underneath the bash plate, I would mount an extra bracket/loop just near the swing arm so the speedo cable don't move to much under there. So any movement of the swing arm will not effect the cable so much. further on the cable is "only routed by the upper loop that is mounted near the ignition coil in the front. This set worked fine for me. I found a second pic, that shows the
rear loop just at the end of the bash plate:
In that area I would mount an additional loop/bracket if there isn't mount any.
#10
Posted 05 February 2012 - 09:42 PM
PSchrauber, on 05 February 2012 - 09:16 PM, said:
rear loop just at the end of the bash plate:
In that area I would mount an additional loop/bracket if there isn't mount any.
#11
Posted 05 February 2012 - 09:42 PM
PSchrauber, on 05 February 2012 - 09:16 PM, said:
rear loop just at the end of the bash plate:
In that area I would mount an additional loop/bracket if there isn't mount any.
#12
Posted 05 February 2012 - 10:43 PM
dust lip mounted. The double mounted oil seals did not last very long in my experience and have a stopp - loss momentum.
The different ones hopfully last longer and have a much less stop - loss momentum as the standard ones,
I additional sat oil-seal grease between the lips of the seal.
To fit the standard dust covers with these oil-seals you have to shave away the lowest lip of the three
inside the outer dust cover, this takes time as you have to be very carefully not to damage
the other two lips of the dustcover. Any damage to these lips will be visible on the stanchions as
the wiping effect will be lowered where they got damaged).
Looks like it should:
#13
Posted 05 February 2012 - 11:31 PM
I had the same dilema 3 years ago.
Solution = Halfords cheapest bike speedo. Mount the magnet on one of the front wheel nearside spokes and using cable ties strap the sender to the inner face on the near side slider. Run the cable up the fork leg tie near the top of the slider and at a point just above the bottom yoke allow (enough lenght)for full extention. Then route up to the display mounted on the handlebars.
Apart from a change of battery it has been trouble free and given good service for 30 months, all for an outlay of £10.
Re the fork seals I posted the uk supplier and part number on an earlier post of mine.
KTM65 SX 02 - 09 use 35mm x 47mm x 10mm seals.
All Balls make a kit "Part No 57-827A" which comprise 2 oil seals and two dust covers.
Martin
Edited by Triple_X, 05 February 2012 - 11:34 PM.
#14
Posted 06 February 2012 - 06:13 PM
Triple_X, on 05 February 2012 - 11:31 PM, said:
I had the same dilema 3 years ago.
Solution = Halfords cheapest bike speedo. Mount the magnet on one of the front wheel nearside spokes and using cable ties strap the sender to the inner face on the near side slider. Run the cable up the fork leg tie near the top of the slider and at a point just above the bottom yoke allow (enough lenght)for full extention. Then route up to the display mounted on the handlebars.
Apart from a change of battery it has been trouble free and given good service for 30 months, all for an outlay of £10.
Re the fork seals I posted the uk supplier and part number on an earlier post of mine.
KTM65 SX 02 - 09 use 35mm x 47mm x 10mm seals.
All Balls make a kit "Part No 57-827A" which comprise 2 oil seals and two dust covers.
Martin
#15
Posted 06 February 2012 - 07:29 PM
PSchrauber, on 05 February 2012 - 10:43 PM, said:
dust lip mounted. The double mounted oil seals did not last very long in my experience and have a stopp - loss momentum.
The different ones hopfully last longer and have a much less stop - loss momentum as the standard ones,
I additional sat oil-seal grease between the lips of the seal.
To fit the standard dust covers with these oil-seals you have to shave away the lowest lip of the three
inside the outer dust cover, this takes time as you have to be very carefully not to damage
the other two lips of the dustcover. Any damage to these lips will be visible on the stanchions as
the wiping effect will be lowered where they got damaged).
Looks like it should:
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users















