Don't want these Ads? Why not sign up as a Trials Central Supporter.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
htrdoug

Oh Yea,found Myself A 320!

17 posts in this topic

SWM280_zps2e106043.jpg

Thought I was paying too much as Ebay ad said it didn't run,but by the time I did the "Buy It Now" he'd got it going.Engine sounds terrific! Runs beauty! So Smooth,quietest running 2stroke I've ever heard :-)

Gonna need alot of tweaking to get it as effective as My Fantic 240,but progress is already being made,have clutch down to easy two finger/OKay but distracting 1 finger action,will try taking out a couple of clutch springs next.Brakes are strong,rims round,tires hard as stone ;-) no oil in forks,rear shocks leaking from not being ridden. Footpegs are miserable,will cut those pristine mounts and never tweaked(Or even come in contact with anything other than a bootsole) footpegs and pitch them

Engine pulls like an electric motor,Luv It! handling will need some work but will tune on it once suspension is sorted out.

Question: can I run this on the 80-1 I use in my Sherco? Wouldn't be a big issue mixing up maybe 60-1 and sharing it with my Fantic. Of course full synthetic oil.

Any source for the 38mm fork wipers? Haven't seen them anywhere online,but maybe there's somewhere for SWM parts I am unaware of.

Thanks,

Pic of both my twinshockers heading out to a practice outing last sunday

IMG_0473_zpsbbf48def.jpg

damn,that trailer looks awesome with that load on her!

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't want these Ads? Why not sign up as a Trials Central Supporter.

Cool Doug ;

Doesn't the 320 have the clutch lightener lever assembly somewhere under the tank already ? If it does you may be able to adjust on that before any spring removal ?

Fantic Looks great too !

Glenn

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cool Doug ;

Doesn't the 320 have the clutch lightener lever assembly somewhere under the tank already ? If it does you may be able to adjust on that before any spring removal ?

Fantic Looks great too !

Glenn

Yep,already drilled a new hole lower on the arm for the lower cable,helped a bit but to go lower I'd have to fab a hangar to drop the cable attachment point,not a quicky fix. Trying to lighten the spring rate first will preserve my engagement point location. Bought a Moose racing CR lever last night and it seems to have decent geometry,I can't get along with Domino levers even after heating and recontouring to a better shape.My Fantic started out just as hard to pull as the SWM is and now she's only about 10% harder than my Sherco.Think I'll borrow the mini inductor from work this weekend and heat and rebend all my spare levers into a copy of the Sherco levers as that allows the best clearance for the fingers remaining on the handlebars.

P.S. The Fantic does look good,I'll work out the tuning on the SWM then make her comparable before next season,but I want things like footpeg position and suspension action sorted before cosmetics.

I'm hoping that the Betor alloy shocks will work so that the suspension brand will be the same front and rear,I will experiment with putting on the Fantics marzocchi to see If I like the longer shocks,but footpegs must be lowered first before jacking up the back end.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's the last model with the Jumbo chassis, pretty rare and one of the best handling twinshocks as it is.

Rotax clutch is the worst aspect of the bikes. The lever mechanism inside the clutch cover is abysmal and is more than half the problem of getting a smooth action as it can foul on the casing. If you take springs out it will most likely slip under real load and high gears. If you lengthen the arm inside the cover to lighten it, it will not get enough throw to clear properly. It's a really tedious juggle to get them to work, yet some (not many) seem to work without any need for tinkering.

The best solution is the Aprilia clutch cover with the external arm and different actuator

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's the last model with the Jumbo chassis, pretty rare and one of the best handling twinshocks as it is.

Rotax clutch is the worst aspect of the bikes. The lever mechanism inside the clutch cover is abysmal and is more than half the problem of getting a smooth action as it can foul on the casing. If you take springs out it will most likely slip under real load and high gears. If you lengthen the arm inside the cover to lighten it, it will not get enough throw to clear properly. It's a really tedious juggle to get them to work, yet some (not many) seem to work without any need for tinkering.

The best solution is the Aprilia clutch cover with the external arm and different actuator

I'll give it a go on experimenting with the clutch,it's no more difficult than my 240 was when I got her,and now she's a 1 finger beauty with no slippage.

Can I use the clutch cover off of a Climber by blocking off the water pump crapola? Much more likely to find a derelict climber than a air cooled Aprilia over here,if I came across one of those I'd have to fix it up too!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the clutch down to 1 finger operation,Put on a new set of Dunlops.

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So did you just lube and line up everything up nice and proper ? or just disconnect the cable end ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So did you just lube and line up everything up nice and proper ? or just disconnect the cable end ?

Well,Let's call it a Kludge...first I got a new Moose Racing CR ratio lever,made a new upper cable to take the smaller cable end,then(and here comes the inelegant part) hooked a throttle return spring to the lever under the tank and pulled it forward to connect at the coil mount bracket,then took a spring that I had removed from a automotive coil-over-plug coil assembly and wound it around the lower cable to push on the lever,these are very light springs and will in no way cause clutch slippage,just give my finger a bit of help. Maybe I'll remove 2 clutch springs when I refurbish the cosmetics this winter,but if it works well during tomorrow's practice I will call it good ;-)

Adjusted the too tight steering head bearings,put on new fork wipers and changed the fork oil,made another front brake cable so I can have matching brake lever and clutch lever once I go pick up the one I ordered.

Next on the agenda Is to fab some modern footpeg mounts,see Heath Brindley's setup on his SWM.stockers are narrow and at a odd angle that leaves me riding on just the back knife edge,and higher than my other bikes,will lower to skidder level. Out of spare footpegs,will need to hit up JimmyZ once he gets back from Coal Hollow event.

Putted around back yard,getting really good and suited to me,suspension action is slow,but I used 5w20 in the forks as I had no fork oil around,it'll do until I invest in better shocks as the stock shocks are slow reacting too,5w20 made the forks match the action of the shocks.

Have a intake boot on order from Midwest SWM(siliconed up the cracks in the present one,good enough for play),if it gets here before our Vintage Cup series finale I'll ride the Fantic 1 day and the SWM the next,not like I'm in contention,Ryan Young and Quinn Wentzel are riding it too,I'm the lowest level rider in it,but I do manage mid-pack finishes against champ,expert,and advanced riders(My Fantic is like cheating,but it's more like an equalizer considering my competition)

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the clutch down to 1 finger operation,Put on a new set of Dunlops.

That sounds really interesting, I have modified the actuator from these tiny 6mm balls to fit 12mm ones which is an improvement but it's still not a one finger clutch.

Please tell us more about your clutch conversion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll have to do the Big Balls conversion then,just for the namesake only!

I do say my temporary solution is a hack,but it feels better like this:

IMG_0342_zpsfd8d25d2.jpg

You can see the tendons in my hand getting a wookout----

th_MyMovie_zps3b3e958f.jpg<--click,I dunno how to embed :icon_salut:

But when riding it it seems easier,rode for like ten 10 minutes straight doing figure eights in the tiny back yard(Side yard has too many dog piles the kid hadn't cleaned up,Automatic "5" if you hit one) without getting cramp in hand,using the clutch in every turn,and since your never in a section more than a few minutes she may be OK

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK now I understand ... but my SWM from 1980 seems to be too old, I don't have this extra lever upon the cylinder.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The conversion for the balls has to be done inside the clutch side case:

DSC09438.JPG

The inner lever has to be replaced against one that can take up the bigger balls.

Then the ground level of the side case has to be deepened a little bit by milling so the bigger balls will

fit. I sadly just have a photo how it looked before.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well,it may be simpler to fit a Aprilia clutch cover then ;) If I can find one!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Made some brackets to lower the footpegs and fit modern ones,found some decent paint to match Rustoleum Cobalt Blue metallic.I plan to spray the entire frame over the winter so the minor extra metallic and purplish shade will actually look good.

Interesting,this bike gives me courage to cross larger logs than my Modern Sherco or Hot Rod Fantic,But it's old school response(better than a TY350 though) makes short vertical climbs/hops very difficult.(picked up a quick turn throttle to put on) I did take it for a long ride today and was able to get over and up everything the modern bikes did that I would try on my Sherco.

I will need to see If I can rebuild the shocks,they are dead and slam bottom hard on any drop.

Sliding the forks up through the clamps about 8mm helped the handling,actually stabilized it from putting more weight on the front tire,I will try another 5mm or so if the fender won't hit the lower triple clamp,handling is still flighty compared to the Fantic or the Sherco. Bike turns very sharp,I may experiment with the shocks from the Fantic that are 20mm longer to shift more weight forward,that seems to be what this bike wants for stability,reverse logic I know,whatever works!

Motor is amazingly smooth,like it's electric B)

Let a couple of buddies try it out,they say I have two "cheat" bikes now :thumbup: (TY175 riders)

photofootpegs_zps983d879e.jpg

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0