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Sherco 290 Tickover


carlsmith
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Ok so I've ordered viton seals and a flywheel puller from splatshop. Has anyone posted any instructions on how to do this? I'm not a mechanical numpty and can tackle most things but instructions would help. Also do I need any other special tools? Which side is the easiest?

Thanks in advance

Carl

There are threads within this forum with details. It is not difficult, however, if you do not have what you guys call a good "windy gun" life becomes more difficult!

If you do not have this , or access to it, you will need a clutch holding fixture. Splatshop will likely loan you one upon deposit if needed, and you will need a torqur wrench that will go to 72 lb/ft if we are not able to use the "cheat" method.

If we can use the cheat method, then a dremel tool is preferred as well.

So what do you have within your skills and toolbox?

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Well, I am not going to write a book here as I only have two good typing fingers and they get tired quickly! It has all been done before, but I will allow you MY tips.

1- You may need a clutch side cover gasket if yours does not come off clean.

2- You may want/need fresh coolant.

There are 3 main large nuts you should try and get right. The one on the Mag, the one on the Clutch hub and the one on the Primary drive gear.

I use the dremel with the small thin disk to scribe alignment marks on the nuts and shafts prior to disassembly so I can take them back(or slightly beyond) upon reassembly and using the rattle gun A good 3/8 drive gun should do it, as the big 1/2 drives are usually too hard to control well.

There are good electric ones that will work too, but not the cheap ones.

Mag side, remove flywheel and stator plate noting top index mark on stator position, gently pry seal out and reinstall new one using socket or something as a drift if you can, then reinstall what you took off and torque up your flywheel nut.

Clutch side, drain coolant, lay bike on side so no oil lost. Gonna need to pull brake pedal and kicker lever to pull cover. Remove clutch basket and primary drive gear noting position of washers and such on clutch and water pump.(the 2 other big nuts come in here)

The primary gear can be a bit tight on the shaft, I use a slide hammer with an angled adapter to get under it and pop it up. One lad made a puller with an old pushbike pedal and a bolt as it need to be thin enough to fit under, just. Does not take a lot but possibly too much to lever a screwdriver against the case without damage.

Pull seal and reassemble. Note you will likely want to follow the water pump seal replacement guide on the Sherco website to insure you do not get the drive gear or washer jacked up in the reassembly of the side cover.

So in summary, if you get my drift on all this you are probably good to go, and if you do not have a clue you would prolly be better off letting your local dealer do it.

I say that because there are times that some folks should not be handed power tools as they become dangerous! And this is an advanced process for those who have never done such.

Cheers,

MC

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  • 2 weeks later...

Following the good advice from copemech and Steve Earle I did the flywheel side as this is the easier one to do as I had limited time and ***** weather. It has made a marked improvement to the idle and it will now tickover all day without me needing to blip the throttle or play with the idle screw. It's still not perfect to my ears ( I know a bit about engines and hear the odd missed/extra beat). Who said a little knowledge is dangerous?

Anyway it'll do for now and if the sun ever comes out I'll do the clutch side to eliminate that as well.

Thanks for all replies

Carl

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  • 10 months later...
 

Just before reassembly I thought I'd check the clutch basket as the clutch does stick after a week or so. Every one was the same. Hopefully it should be a lot better now I have filed them smooth.post-18224-0-59797900-1420404528_thumb.jpg

Edited by carlsmith
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Did the bike have any engine noise when you last ran it?

I replaced my basket & the rubber dampers in the gear last year & was amazed at how quiet the bike was afterwards, for what it cost I won't ever bother filing the basket as it's too easy to end up with only a few of the fingers making contact with the clutch plates

Splatshop has a guide in their blog showing exactly what is involved

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There was no noise. Just a sticky clutch and smokey engine. Hopefully this should solve all my problems. Just waiting for a gasket and gear oil from splatshop and I'll reassemble it and report back.

They do stick if not ridden!

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