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I'm Giving Her Too Many Fingers !

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Holding the levers also stops pulling them in too hard in a reaction. If you need to grap them you are probably pulling the brake too hard, instead of nice and dosed.

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I can not imagine riding with more than one finger on the clutch. I have a hard enough time hanging

on with the 3 I have left when the **** hits the fan.


Clutch grab in as close to the bars as possible helps, as has been said. I find that shorty levers help too

to keep the outer fingers from getting smashed.


When I started riding single finger was not enjoying life, he was weak and fatigued easily.

Now single finger is a bad ass and bows to no man except during longer clutch heavy riding sessions.

Edited by bigmark1972
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Always have 1 finger on the clutch and most of the time 1 finger on the brake. I sometimes take my finger off the front brake when there is no possibility of it helping, If I'm doing a hill climb or about to jump up onto something the front brake isn't going to help in some cases so I take it off. By the time you need the brake in those situations you can quickly move your finger back onto the lever. To be honest I'm just copying what I see the pro riders doing. 

Edited by jml

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I ride with one finger on clutch and brake all the time. Even when wide open, my finger just kind of points up. I like my clutches to engage right out so a lot less lever travel and feels more precise to me. One thing to be careful of is grabbing some clutch/brake without noticing; I don't really wrap my fingers around them rather resting on top/in front like this ---> http://rx.iscdn.net/2012/01/20766_reed5.jpg


No problems with grip or strength because of weightlifting.


I use the clutch for pretty much everything. Dropped a bunch of teeth off the rear of my 4rt for a taller 1st.


I use index fingers on trials, but middle finger for front brake on 636 with index for clutch and middle for handbrake; and middle finger for front brake for mx and sx. I run my bars forward and levers around 15deg down (except 636 clutch/hb).


If you're having trouble with one finger try pushing the perch in on the bar so you grab the end of the lever.


That would mean that you're holding onto the left hand-side of the bars with only your two weakest fingers? Impressive!
Unless you are on a twin-shock, with a seat, and no real power ^_^...and if you are on a twin-shock you would definitely need two fingers on that cable clutch.
Could you please update your profile to help?


If it's a cable clutch pick up an MSR ex-pull, or an RSC if you want the best (with lifetime warranty) ---> http://www.righteousstuntmetal.com/international/levers.htmlThe easy pull boxes like Moose sell are **** and wear cables.


Another thing you can do is extend the clutch arm. Just make sure there's enough adjustment in the perch, enough room to clear the case; and enough adjustment to fully engage/disengage.


Make sure the cable is routed as smooth as possible.


I run an ez-pull and extended clutch arm on my 636 and it's nearly as light as my trials bikes.



Agree with above. Even using one finger I still find myself wishing I had a few extras on each hand. Not as if im doing BIG obstacles but when you do move onto bigger stuff, you will be needing as many fingers on the bar as possible.


Do deadlits. Grip for dayyyyssss.



I was doing a search for FAQ's of trial bike clutches, mainly - Do you really ride the clutch all the time, or have I just gotten the wrong impression? If so, do they end up requiring frequent replacement? I understand the differences of a car clutch being dry and all, but I wouldn't expect to use my Ninja like that and have much of a clutch left at the end of the season. Are modern trials bike clutches uniquely more robust than other motorcycles?


I have only logged in a few minutes on my sons TY175 and the clutch feels very light to me. It is hard to wrap my head around how good that little thing works for a 40 year old bike!


I am looking forward to getting a newer style for myself. Man I wish there were a few near me that could test out, it would do so much to help me understand what I may want to look for as the TY is the only trials I have ever tried. I wanted an older one for my son because he has very little motorcycle time logged and should have a seat until he gets board enough to be a little more adventurous with his riding and he is very proud of his old TY. I have had more than 30 bikes since my 1st in 1974 street, motocross and enduro but never rode a trials until last summer.


4rt uses the same plates as CR125/250f (and some others I can't remember). I ride the clutch before bigger (for me) steps to keep revs up but move forward slowly until slipping it. Similarly, if I'm stopped on an incline I'll use the clutch instead of brake before attempting an obstacle. Other than that, slipping the clutch is just like when you take off but with varying degrees of throttle or release speed. Clutchless shifts on my dirt bikes and 636.


I haven't replaced my 636 clutch once. Giving it heaps of revs and dumping the clutch will wear it fast but slipping it properly hasn't hurt it at all... ZX9 is a lot heavier though

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