dantxtpro Posted March 21, 2014 Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 Hi I have a GG txt pro 250cc 2009 I pre apologise for my ignorance as I'm new to trailing. My kick start oil seal started to leak so I disconnected the clutch cover, clutch slave cylinder pipe so I could fully remove the cover for ease of working. Today I replaced the seal along with cover gaskets. I'd been given a suggestion as how to install the slave cylinder ( top hat) back into it's position without inducing an air pocket. I filled the top hat first then proceeded to slide it over it's platform once this was achieved I brimmed the cover from hose side and connected hose. I started the bike up to notice the clutch was dragging and the biting point was really close to the grip which was the opposite to previously. I've bled and bled and bled the system and seem to have purged the system of any air but it's still dragging and a low bite point. My other more worrying discovery was that when the bike was running I could hear a noise coming from the clutch side of engine. When I yet again removed the clutch cover to investigate I was shocked to see there's been fouling to the inside of the clutch cover. I can only assume it's the clutch pack but there are no witnesses. I measured the new gasket thickness and compared to the original it's around .06mm under size which I can't see being the cause as it's minute. All needle rollers remained in thrust bearing and thin metal washer also remained in correct position on kick start shaft so cannot be either of them. I just wondered if there's an already known cause before I have to pay for someone to look at it. Bike was faultless before this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arnoux Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 (edited) Hi Dan I would suspect you have managed to get the bearing plate (MT2803320140) and/or the clutch bearing disc (MT280232043) under one of the clutch fingers (MT2800632070) on re-assembling the clutch. This can unfortunately sometimes happens when working on the bike in an upright position allowing the fingers to fall away from the hub, and as you push the side case back on the plate can get "behind" one or more of the fingers. The best way to work on these motors is with the bike lying on it's left side - then the fingers naturally stay flat. Use a small bit of assembly grease to hold the clutch bearing and plate to the slave cylinder piston when putting the side cover back on. Edited March 22, 2014 by arnoux 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guys Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Also take a look at all of Jim Snell's videos on the subject: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjoj7n74G0s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cactusjack Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 What arnoux said. I have just learned the same lesson, although I never started the bike thankfully. I heard things not sound right on assembly, but found the kickstart wasn't engaging correctly, so I removed the lot again. I then watched Jim Snell's videos and laid the bike on it's side before reassembly. Short answer, lay bike on side, remove and reinstall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantxtpro Posted March 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Thanks arnoux, correct I have the bike stood upright and the funnily enough dad suggested exactly that possible fault this morning. Silly mistake on my behalf but I'm new to bikes in general I was so worried about the needle rollers dropping out of thrust bearing I thought best to fit upright.... How wrong I was! cooling system is now fully of coolant on refitment of cutch cover the water pump seal weeped coolant when slight pressure ( hard to avoid) was applied laterally to the pump drive shaft. Is it best to replace seal or will it be ok once aligned when installed. If there's no visible damage to clutch fingers would you just clean up and leave? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cactusjack Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 There is a measurement for the clutch fingers, but I am unsure of what it is. It should be in here somewhere: http://www.trialspartsusa.com/ Follow the links to their tech pages and you should be able to find it. I expect everything will be fine if you can see no visible damage and all fingers seem to line up well and are even. As for your coolant leak, I would be tentative about it, however if the gearbox does milky up then it is an easy fix that can be done fairly quickly without pulling the clutch cover again. The timing of the water pump is very important. If you do not ensure the cutout in the end of the crank and the roll pin for the water pump drive are aligned you will damage things very quickly. I removed the water pump before installing the clutch cover. Good luck with it all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Next time you remove cover. Remove kickstarter, remove case bolts, remove case, (Leave clutch line attached. leave waterpump intact.) Just zip tie the kickstater hole to the front exhaust pipe to hold the case. It`s less than ten minutes on and off. Always remember that thin washer on the kick start shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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