breagh Posted August 14, 2014 Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 The motor is now out the old 340 and away getting seen too.. However on inspection I noticed the rear engine mounting floating about on the swingarm spindle (seized solid) Feels like there's massive wear on the mounting and spindle. I assume that a small amount of sideways float is acceptable? Just want someone to say just replace the lot. Finally the bike has no head steady,I feel this could be a wise addition? Thanks in advance for advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canada280i Posted August 14, 2014 Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 Just replace the lot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bullylover Posted August 15, 2014 Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 All of the Sherpa`s vibrate like crazy when the head stay is cracked or removed. The 340 is exactly the same so either put a steel one on it which is more than likely to crack very soon or to make an alloy one like the photos in the Bultaco forums on here. If the rear engine mount is worn then just build it up with a bit of weld and rebore the axle hole. This will get rid of the end float as well. You will end up having to buy a new axle and bushes anyway. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted August 15, 2014 Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 my 340 has a steel bar welded on the under side off the head steady to make it stronger. to the rear engine mount there should not be any side play if you replace the bushes and spindle and mount you should be sorted. if it was me id just replace the lot wouldn;t bother trying to weld anything. that would be messy. the rear mount should be i good snug fit. iv'e never had a S/Arm spindle seized how bad is it? will it not budge? any chance off a photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smelling123 Posted August 15, 2014 Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 If youre unlucky it will be siezed - the spindle rusts and siezes in the centre engine mount bracket. I had to disk cut mine out recently.... You can buy the bushes and spindle from in-motion, the hardest part will (as Bondy says) getting it out. I made a titanium spindle - for weight but also corrosion resistance (it wont rust). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breagh Posted August 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 Thanks lads,the spindles pretty solid but I'm fairly confident I can get it out. I'll bite the bullet and replace the lot and fit a decent head steady. I think the engine has been bouncing about for a while. Let you know if there's an improvement when I get it back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guys Posted August 16, 2014 Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 If youre unlucky it will be siezed - the spindle rusts and siezes in the centre engine mount bracket. I had to disk cut mine out recently.... You can buy the bushes and spindle from in-motion, the hardest part will (as Bondy says) getting it out. I made a titanium spindle - for weight but also corrosion resistance (it wont rust). Us, not so fortunate guys, have to do with Never-Seez or copper paste to prevent (galvanic) corrosion 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted August 16, 2014 Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 you say the engines been bouncing about that would be of concern this is what the head steady is there for. i would check the frame to see if it's stright. before you rebuild it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike350 Posted August 22, 2014 Report Share Posted August 22, 2014 I have to agree with the previous comments. Replace the lot. I had to cut the spindle to remove the swinging arm and then carefully cut the brass bushes to remove them. I believe that's pretty common. They were replaced with nylon bushes which will sort any galvanic activity - although I like the idea of titanium...My bike won't get too much use, so I didn't pay extra for new brass bushes. All parts are easily available so I took the view that while I was there I might as well do it right. I wouldn't put it together without the head steady but fitting that was a much more fiddly job than I thought. Silly money part too! Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smelling123 Posted August 22, 2014 Report Share Posted August 22, 2014 Titanium rod was about £10 on eaby - just need a pal with a lathe to cut a thread on it for you....lovely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted August 22, 2014 Report Share Posted August 22, 2014 yes am going to have some done for my next project. to the head steady there not fiddly if you know how to put them on proper. i had the same problem when i first ever put 1 on. need to first put the cylinder head on the barrel put the 1 bolt throw the head steady this is longer than the other bolts make sure you have thick washer also. only put the bolt and nut on the head steady lose make sure tho it's turned a few turns. hat this stage don't put any other bolts in the head push the rear of the head steady up onto the frame bracket then put the bolt throw head steady and frame. leave it loose. now you can put the rest off the head bolts in and stud nuts and torq in the correct way the last bolt to be tightend should be the frame bolt on the head steady to stop any stress on the head. some do it other ways but ive never had any problems this way. but this is only the top end there is the engine and bash plate and S/Arm all need to be done in order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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