pschrauber Posted September 18, 2014 Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 To the tank holt problem, I had the same issue. The stanchions hittet the nut / bolt. I solved it by using a rod, one side with threads, the other side welded to a washer t: 4mm. As a nut I made an additional washer t: 4mm with inner threads so you can mount him to the rod. For thigtening I drilled two additional holes in the washer. I have an extra tool to with which you can thighten them, looks very professional and now the stanchions arn't hitting the bolts to the tank anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhbul Posted September 18, 2014 Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 (edited) Fork hits tank bolt; I just like a little cleaner look than stock.. Regards, Larry Edited September 19, 2014 by lbhbul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d250b Posted September 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2014 Thanks for all the suggestions. Im hoping to trial the bike for the first time this weekend and there was no way I was going to get any sort of fabrication/machining done in time since my man with the lathe was too busy. I was trying to think laterally for something which could just 'bolt on' and remembered the special fixings on a desk i have in my 'office'. I think I looked for them as Sleeve nuts and through gradual research discovered they could also be called barrel nuts or interscrews. (I did also find a mention of "sex-nuts" ) Anyway I think it provides a pretty tidy solution and is pretty symmetrical. I had to shorten my long button head allen bolt a wee bit and also cut the barrel of the interscrew approximately in half so that everything fitted properly. The only other thing was to drill out the hole in the tank to 10mm from 8mm to accommodate the thicker interscrew. Success! or so I thought but the damned fork still touched the head of the interscrew. Theres a good few mm of clearance at the other side so I don't know whats going on; I can only assume that the front of the tank is flared a bit (as Woody mentioned) and its flared further on the rhs of the bike. Anyway as per Woody's suggestion I partly filled the recess on the nylon bump stop, refitted and problem solved. Tidy finish and no contact. Bit of a long road for a shortcut but I think it worked out ok. Pics show the button head allen bolt, the head of the interscrew and the assembly prior to being cut to length to fit. attachment=14152:P1040099.JPG] 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted September 22, 2014 Report Share Posted September 22, 2014 Your tank has definitely flared at the front, you can see it in the last picture. Normally, you can just pull it in on the bolt but as yours is painted I wouldn't try it as it would probably crack the paint. You could try heating it and gently trying to close it back up again Nice finish with the bolt heads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted September 22, 2014 Report Share Posted September 22, 2014 those top tank rubbers look to wide just a thought this may be stopping the neck to pull in abit see if you can get a slightly thinner rubber on both sides or cut them down abit. as woody says there is quit abit off flare is the tank alloy? nice bolt could do with 1 off them for my plastic tank. i know it's annoying when little things need sorting. you just have to keep playing about with it just try that what i said they do look thick to me are the tank rubbers the ones that push in or go over the boss? hope you sort it cheers bondy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhbul Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 Good job, certainly beats the machine time as I have done in the past. Might think of anti seize as stainless likes to stick together, could be a bit of a bother down the road. But I am sure you have already taken care of that. Bike really nice Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d250b Posted September 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 Thanks. Woody I think I'll leave as is, just in case. Knowing my luck I would just bu@@er up the paint! Bondy, the rubber bungs came as a set, with one going over the metal protrusion on the frame and the other one free floating. You can see on the right hand side of the photo that I've put a thin rubber washer in between them to make them a snug fit and to stop the tank getting drawn in by the bolt/nut. I didn't realise at the time that the front of the tank was flared out so just assumed I should fill the void snugly. Now that nothing is fouling on anything else I think I'm ok. It's a plastic tank. You can see on the label in the pic where I got the nut from, they seem to be used in boat building. Larry thanks for the info, I didn't know that ss had a tendency to do that so I will put a wee bit of copper grease on there just in case. D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted September 24, 2014 Report Share Posted September 24, 2014 hello yes i see what you mean about the tank rubbers oh well if your happy with it just leave it like you said. iv'e bought 1 off them bolts from a boat place. so i will try it on my tank. i have no problem with the forks touching just want the bolt as it's a nice finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d250b Posted September 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2014 Bondy I was lucky in that my star drivers had a recess to accommodate the little nipple in the head of the bolt. I did find others which didn't have that feature so if you have ordinary drivers you can still get them. I opted for those ones simply because they were set up for PayPal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhbul Posted September 26, 2014 Report Share Posted September 26, 2014 David, do let us know how you get on with your project and especially the nice paint on the tank. Super Job! Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted September 26, 2014 Report Share Posted September 26, 2014 hey got the interscrew have to order the bit ah has you say it has the nipple i need to order the bolt anyway what size was your threaded bold will 90mm be ok you thinks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d250b Posted September 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2014 Thanks Larry, I've no doubt that the paint job will fall victim to a lack of skill sooner rather than later!! Bondy I started with a 100mm bolt to accommodate what I now know was a flared front to the tank but I had to cut it down to use the fancy nut so 90mm might not be too far off but your tank will no doubt have a different cross section than mine at the front. You might find you have to cut it down a bit even from 90mm. Only trial and error will show what length you need. I also had to cut the sleeve nut nearly in half to get it to work given the distance between tank and the protrusion on the frame. I believe the star head with the little nipple in the middle is a security/tamper-proof feature and my Draper star drivers luckily came with the recess to accommodate that. As I said though you can get the sleeve nuts without it. D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted September 26, 2014 Report Share Posted September 26, 2014 mine did come with the nipple in the middle but the place i got it from sell the torx socket and there cheap so ill buy 1 i have ordered a 90mm button head bolt i will cut it down if i have to no problem. i have button head bolts on most off the bike think they look better than the hex head bolts had to get high tensile for the rear sproket. cheers bondy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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