Jump to content

Problems With Clutch , New Hose ! Txt 280 2007


dusty23
 Share

Recommended Posts

Evening all , first of all I will admit to being no mechanic and only have a basic grasp of maintanance ! But saying that I am not to dumb .

Anyway , during a little ( over excited ) play I managed to FUBAR my clutch hose . Have fitted a new one and was struggling to get pressure / bleed it . I contacted my supplier and through their recomendation managed to reverse prime / bleed the hose using a syringe on to the bleed nipple , forcing the oil back up and draining the excess out of the reservoire as I went .

I primed it for 5 good minutes until no more air came up in to the resevoire , did the bleed nipple up , checked the oil in the resevoire was about 3/4 full and refit the lid /cap .

I managed to build up pressure and the clutch was dissengaging , but not fully . with out the engine running , in gear with the clutch pulled in it was stiff to push . So I fired it up , rode around abit to see if that would sort it .

I got off with the engine running , still in gear , clutch in and it would try to move off ,only slowly but it was obvious the clutch was not fully disengaging , as when I then applied the clutch and brake , you could hear the engine stuggling a bit .

So my question is , what can I do . The problem did not exist before I buggered up the original hose . I dont know what else to try , the banjo bolt is not showing signs of leakage , nor the top nut , but for some reason I can not fully seperate the clutch . Please help as I dont know what else to do / try apart from cry like a little girl and sit in the corner of my workshop and rock back and forth !!

Many thanks in advance . Dusty

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Have you put the right fluid in, should it be DOT 4 or HSMO ?

Park the bike so there is a definite upward gradient in the hose and slave cylinder all the way to the reservoir and leave it like that overnight. It is likely there are minute bubbles in the fluid that are causing loss or slave cylinder travel and these should rise out overnight.

Another method is to put PTFE tape on the bleed nipple threads to seal them, Fit a 4 ft long clear tube to the bleed nipple (tube full of clean fluid) and the vacuum bleed towards the reservoir. Vacuum expands small bubbles and makes them more likely to rise out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 

Take m cyl cap off turn bars so left side is high. Back the adjuster right off then just keep pumping the lever. Any air will bubble into the cylinder. Clutches are actually easier to bleed than brakes. If this doesn't work check for leaks. A 2007 should be mineral not dot 4. The seal in the slave cylinder is actually teflon coated and will work with either. But at the lever end if the rubber and cap are green it must be mineral. If its black cap and rubber then it must be dot 4.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 
  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Dusty, gee I could have written your post word for word as I have the same problems last night, even the cause was the same. Iv'e already tried the above mentioned remedies but no joy as yet, so back to the drawing board. I had coolant get into the transmission and I run some fresh oil and ATF through twice the ATF is still in there looks clear now]. It was also in there before the hose went bust and seemed to work well. I have even fitted a M/C kit [ Green cap ]. Watching this post with interest.

Cheers Taff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 
 
 

Finally sorted. As mentioned I had already done all the above mentioned procedures with no success [bike could pull me back into the shed with the clutch lever against the bars]. But it seems I did not do the jiggling the lever with the cap off and the M/c at its highest point, properly, even though I got air bubbles. My mate had said [as was mentioned here] jiggle and leave it for a while and then go back and repeat. My mate added jiggle go have a beer and repeat the jiggling, I did not have the beer, was that the problem. :wall:

Any way he came around and did the process and I could see to what extent the lever jiggling had to be done. Lots of more air bubbles but still the clutch pulled.

We decided the issue must be in the clutch itself, so I again replaced the ATF with Global trannie oi. This improved the situation somewhat but not good. I decided to ride the bike anyway and see what would happen, I thought the clutch plates may have been effected by the coolant getting in there. Well and hour into the ride the clutch started to work as it should and has stayed that way though Sundays three hour ride. Now I'll have that beer :guinness:

Cheers Taff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
  • Create New...