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Villiers 8E Clutch


john b
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Hi there

Following on from my previous topic on gearbox sprocket....

I got a 13T sprocket off Villiers services to replace my 17T with and at the same time decided to change the cork clutch plates for ferrodo. Sent my plates away for exchange, everything arrived - all good.....

Disassembly, went OK, everything removed etc fitted 13T gearbox sprocket

Reassembly ..... problem....

There is now about 3-4mm lateral play on the splined shaft that the clutch fits on, therefore when the clutch is re- assembled the clutch actuator simply pushes the entire clutch assembly out rather that pushing the pressure plate out against the springs ???

Any idea what could have gone wrong ?

cheers

John

Edited by john b
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Assuming the new clutch plates are slightly thicker than the old, the clutch pack when assembled, would need the clutch push rod to be adjusted longer, this would probably take up the play in the floating shaft, if it doesn't then maybe you've lost a ball bearing in the clutch push rod assembly (therefore not allowing enough adjustment to the clutch push rod). It's 50yrs since I played with 8e's, so please don't take this as gospel, only a suggestion. Probably the gearbox mainshaft has slightly excessive play, but previous post, noted gearbox worked OK, so limiting the end float by clutch push rod adjustment would probably be OK (could even have been part of the original design) and within limits for a 60 year old engine.

Edited by ask greeves
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Rang villiers services this morning and it appears that it is only the need to adjust the clutch push rod to take up the float (albeit there appears to be a lot of float .... but it is 60 years old...)

Apparently there is an internal adjuster if you take the dust cover off on the kickstart side of the engine.

Ill keep you posted....

Cheers

John

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I can recall that the trick with a 4 speed 8e, was to make a rubber band from an old inner tube (approx 1/2 inch wide) loop it round the clutch arm and fix to frame (under tension) so that the arm is back against it's stop and pulling the cable and lever also against its stop. Therefore when push rod is adjusted, it's more positve and not including any slop in the cable and lever.

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