ripgroove Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 (edited) Noticed my gearbox oil is a bit milky, was hoping it was just a little winter condensation build up as it lives in a cold garage, but have just changed the oil and its gone milky pretty much straight away. So is this likely to be water pump seals letting coolant into the oil? Or could it be quite a bit of moisture build that'll take a little while to disappear? Or maybe water being sucked up the breathers? No other weirdness by the way, it's not smoking white smoke or anything. I will measure the coolant level and monitor it to see if that's where its coming from and I'll also check the clutch cover gasket when I get a minute. The bike has been used in deep water since the last oil change and I also use a low pressure power washer when cleaning it keeping the engine running. I'm kind of leaning towards doing a few more oil changes and monitoring the coolant level to see if it clears up before I go proper fault finding? I'm using Putoline GP10 oil. This is after fresh oil and a few minutes running: Edited January 18, 2015 by ripgroove Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digger144 Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 almost certainly water pump seal or housing perforated, needs fixing asap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripgroove Posted January 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 almost certainly water pump seal or housing perforated, needs fixing asap Balls, will get down BVM tomorrow and get the parts ordered in to do the shaft and seals, and I'll inspect the casings at the same time. Which casing is it that usually fails, the main clutch side engine casing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bilks Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 Yep look like water pump,not quite as bad as this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gasthatchgas Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 That or cylinder head gasket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripgroove Posted January 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 engine.JPGYep look like water pump,not quite as bad as this. Holy moly thats bad! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripgroove Posted January 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 (edited) That or cylinder head gasket Actual cylinder head or combustion cap? Will do the water pump seals and shaft first as they are easier, will then move on from there. Edited January 18, 2015 by ripgroove Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bilks Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 Yes it was, new water pump impellor,shaft and seal was good and new Radiator fan as well ,didn't help when fan packed up,kept coming out of the breather pipe nice pink colour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_earle Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 You only need to unbolt the 3 bolts and remove the water pump housing to do the job. Odiously you will need to give the gear oil a good drain and maybe another change shortly afterwards to get the contamination out. DON'T remove the casing like the one in the photo especially without draining oil out properly 1st, And if you ever have to remove the casing lay bike on its side first and also give it a good wash before hand. Easy Job Have Fun!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripgroove Posted January 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 Yes it was, new water pump impellor,shaft and seal was good and new Radiator fan as well ,didn't help when fan packed up,kept coming out of the breather pipe nice pink colour. Christ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripgroove Posted January 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 You only need to unbolt the 3 bolts and remove the water pump housing to do the job. Odiously you will need to give the gear oil a good drain and maybe another change shortly afterwards to get the contamination out. DON'T remove the casing like the one in the photo especially without draining oil out properly 1st, And if you ever have to remove the casing lay bike on its side first and also give it a good wash before hand. Easy Job Have Fun!!! Yeah thanks, I always favour lying the bike down wherever possible rather than draining all the fluids! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterb Posted January 19, 2015 Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 Hi ripgroove, You need to drain the oil asap, there is every chance that the water in the oil contaminates the clutch fibres making them swell, giving you a hard to pull in clutch action, generally needing a new clutch pack if this is the case. Drain the oil, fit the new water pump shaft and seal, re-fill with 350ml ATF and run this for 10 mins, then drain this when warm and re-fill with 500ml ATF rated to Dexron III. It's a bit of a muck about changing the seal and shaft, but persevere with it. Best to insert a self tapper into the back of the old seal to remove it by pulling on the self tapper with a pair of pliers. The impellor is screwed on, I can't remember if it was a left or a right hand thread. If this doesn't sort the problem, then the head O rings may be passing, they age harden and loose their seal over time. As advised earlier, you only need to remove the 3 water pump screws to do this. On the water pump, there is an outer bronze looking bush, this bush has a nylon sealing washer, then behind the end of the bush is a stainless steel washer that fits between the bush and the shaft, don't loose this washer. Ta ta, PeterB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripgroove Posted January 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 Hi ripgroove, You need to drain the oil asap, there is every chance that the water in the oil contaminates the clutch fibres making them swell, giving you a hard to pull in clutch action, generally needing a new clutch pack if this is the case. Drain the oil, fit the new water pump shaft and seal, re-fill with 350ml ATF and run this for 10 mins, then drain this when warm and re-fill with 500ml ATF rated to Dexron III. It's a bit of a muck about changing the seal and shaft, but persevere with it. Best to insert a self tapper into the back of the old seal to remove it by pulling on the self tapper with a pair of pliers. The impellor is screwed on, I can't remember if it was a left or a right hand thread. If this doesn't sort the problem, then the head O rings may be passing, they age harden and loose their seal over time. As advised earlier, you only need to remove the 3 water pump screws to do this. On the water pump, there is an outer bronze looking bush, this bush has a nylon sealing washer, then behind the end of the bush is a stainless steel washer that fits between the bush and the shaft, don't loose this washer. Ta ta, PeterB. Thanks very much! I'm at work now and don't have access to a parts list but if someone could tell me the parts I need I'll go straight to BVM after work and get them. It's a 2012 GasGas 300. If not it'll have to wait until tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripgroove Posted January 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 (edited) Actually it's Ok I've found a parts list. 1x AXLE: MT280218009 1x DRIVE PIN: MT280418006 1x SEAL: MT280210020 1x O-RING: MT280218008 Edited January 19, 2015 by ripgroove Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripgroove Posted January 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 (edited) Just my luck, shaft is on back order! Got the deal and o-ring so will have to inspect my shaft and see whether it's repairable, can get on a cylindrical grinder at work and grind a tiny amount off of the diameter if need be as long as the seal is still a nice tight fit it should be OK. Worst comes to worst I'll just make a new one, turn it, case harden it and grind it. Edited January 19, 2015 by ripgroove Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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