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Rear Brake Bleeding Issue


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Hello guys, my friend has got an 011 beta 250 and when he was last out in the sleet and snow the rear brake just stopped working. Pads are in good nick, it just won't pump. We've checked fluid level and that's ok so tried to bleed it, did it reverse and other way but it just won't work? Have any you guys got any tips to help us out?

Thanks, Bounce..

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Half the time when there is a rear brake issue, it is just worn pads. I just fixed a 2011 evo that really only needed pads. The owner bought a new master cylinder and new pads. He did a poor job of bleeding the system and compensated by adjusting the rod too tight. First ride out, the air bleed out and the rear caliper caught fire from to much friction.. So I replaced the pistons and seals and put the original master cylinder on. All is good now, it just needed new pads to begin with.

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Thanks for your replys lads. It's not the pads lineaway as there is a good amount of material still on. We tried bleeding it again for a second time but still no result, (we might crap at it) there seems to be a lot of fluid coming out of the nipple and round bit on the hose that it goes through but just can't get pressure. On the master cylinder, when you pump the lever hundreds of little bubbles are coming to the top of the oil, we were doing this for ages and they wouldn't stop, could this mean it is a seal? He ordered the kit today but won't get chance to try it until next weekend.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Bounce,

I'm having the same issue with my 2012 evo. Have you managed to fix it yet?

I have tried bleeding the rear brake twice and still had no luck. There is no pressure in the foot pedal and it does not move the calipers at all.

Thanks

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Bounce, tell us how it started and what you have done since you touched it. And I`ll say again, that most of the time the pads need replacing. Those small pads look like they still have some left, but the pistons will be at their limit,

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Ok start with:

Pull the caliper and push the piston all the way back into the caliper and clamp it so the piston stays all the way in

This pushes much of the the fluid back to the master and possibly the air as well

Note: if you can make the caliper and hose uphill to the master so the air travels back with the fluid then do it

Then bleed the master by pushing the pedal and then crack the banjo bolt, do it til there is no air coming out

Then start to bleed the caliper, you can bleed the banjo at the caliper

I have even removed the hose and held it up above the master so again the air goes uphill

Squeeze the hose end between your fingers and pump the lever til clear fluid Squeezes out

The quickly and carefully re attach the hose to the caliper

Burp it at the banjo and bleed the caliper til it works

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007 gave very good advice. You might also try to back off the push rod or totally remove it. Use a Phillips to pump it. That gives it a complete full stroke. I also prefer a 3 foot clear hose, routed straight up. It works better than any method you can buy.

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