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Ty Brakes


ajock
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The way to get the best performance out of any drum brake is to get thick linings made & have them turned to the same size as the hub.

You need to space the shoes out at the cam by the same amount, 1mm is good, then mount the backplate in a lathe & take light cuts until you get to the required size.

When refitted to the wheel minus the spacers you will have full contact over the whole lining length & only a small amount of movement before the brake starts working

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Hi Guy's.

Jon that is a "Pit Bike" "rear" hub, and they do work very well indeed, and all for £30, then to drill holes in it like that, proves how good most Chinese stuff really is now-a-days. I stick with TY's personally, but I have got some of these for later.

Regards Charlie. :icon_salut: PS skim the linings. like the sensible answer.

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Hi Guy's.

Jon that is a "Pit Bike" "rear" hub, and they do work very well indeed, and all for £30, then to drill holes in it like that, proves how good most Chinese stuff really is now-a-days. I stick with TY's personally, but I have got some of these for later.

Regards Charlie. :icon_salut: PS skim the linings. like the sensible answer.

I knew someone would notice ! I cropped the pic of one of Jon Bliss's Cubs. Ben Wilmore told me how good they are when drilled like that,he reckons to drag the brake for a few yards after a stream section and they are back to normal.

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I knew someone would notice ! I cropped the pic of one of Jon Bliss's Cubs. Ben Wilmore told me how good they are when drilled like that,he reckons to drag the brake for a few yards after a stream section and they are back to normal.

I thought this was a joke until jon v8's second post

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Anyone have any ideas, how to improve standard ty brakes. for 81 250 majesty. Have a spare set of hubs to play with. cheers in advance.

switch it over to hydraulic disc............

I hate drum brakes............

OK mr grumpy pants will go away now........... :mellow:

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I thought this was a joke until jon v8's second post

No joke,and Bens father Martin was out today on his Cotswold BSA with drilled rear hub, couldn't see if the front was as well,just noticed the rear.  

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I rode Bens bike for a short time a couple of weeks ago. The brakes felt totally normal for a drum, powerful and progressive. Although I did not try filled with water and mud, which were prevelant during the actual trial. Ben won the expert class so I guess they must have been OK!

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The way to get the best performance out of any drum brake is to get thick linings made and have them turned to the same size as the hub.

You need to space the shoes out at the cam by the same amount, 1mm is good, then mount the backplate in a lathe and take light cuts until you get to the required size.

When refitted to the wheel minus the spacers you will have full contact over the whole lining length and only a small amount of movement before the brake starts working

What kind of tool do you use on the lathe?

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What rpm for a good finish?

I think I used something like 50-60 RPM and a tool steel tool

I used a tool shaped for machining steel and it worked fine

The brake material dust is probably abrasive (clean the lathe well)

I mount the backing plate on a mandrel

I also suggest that the drum surface should be machined smooth first

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