crazybond700 Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 I would just put 10w40 in those older gg engines! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hario Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Would that be a specific 10w40? I read somewhere that synthetic was a no no, would normal car mineral oil be ok or are they likely to have an additive like moly in them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazybond700 Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 (edited) Motorcycle friendly 10w40. Car clutches are dry, motorcycles clutches are wet (other thicknesses also possible depending on wheater) YOu dont need a fancy expansive one, just oil will do. No need for fully syntetic (some say better not). I use castrol rs, simply because I have it in stock for other bikes aswell. Around 650cc Edited May 12, 2015 by crazybond700 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhbul Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Whatever you do please take this as experience with the earlier design GG, (2001 TXT in my hands), do not use aftermarket clutch plates! Been there. You have the best clutch GG ever had IMHO, Mine has s***f*** junk and without careful attention will not release properly, not unlike some other brands. The original clutch plates you show look fine,not sure about the order as to the first plate in, Sherpa T will slip when kicking if first plate is not steel when using Barnett plates & 4 springs, several early GG in our group, all w/4 springs, running Dexron. My experience only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hario Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Thanks for the advice, i will not be tempted by an aftermarket clutch pack then. Mine look like genuine GG plates do they? I will double check the thickness of them all when the new water pump parts arrive and I am working on the engine again, hopefully they will arrive for the weekend. Did you say you're running with just 4 of the 6 springs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhbul Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Hario, The plates do appear to be the original ones, they had a very distinct pattern and release very well as compared to the after market junk, yours do not appear to be worn, and don't know why they would slip if everything is adjusted (free travel @ the lever) no other adjustments left. I don't have access to an original @ this time but I know mine has a steel plate in first then a friction, Yes we run 4 springs , your springs may be sacked & need replaced or maybe you can get by preloading them slightly, none the less you have the best clutch plates & we are not able to get new ones anymore. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted May 13, 2015 Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 Use all six springs. By the way the clutch only goes together one way. The hub has a mark and so does the pressure plate. It is NOT symmetric. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhbul Posted May 13, 2015 Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 Hario, I will take my clutch apart shortly. In the mean time the springs that are not in my clutch measure 1.490 inch.. I also understand the bike is new to you so we don't know what PO may have changed. These are the junk plates that I replaced with new junk plates; helped it to be just like other brands. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhbul Posted May 13, 2015 Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 Hario, as promised my GG clutch in pieces. Combination plate 1st; fiber down, then typical assembly. Stack = 1.040 Pressure plate index as shown. Photos trump words Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hario Posted May 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 Huge thanks for the detailed reply Larry, that's great info to have. Its sounds like i put the clutch back together correctly then, i think i finished with the final plate being fibre though. When you said you have a steel first do you mean directly under the pressure plate or did you mean the combination plate? I also followed the manual and so lined up the hub and pressure plate indentations. I agree about my plates' condition, they look to have little wear. Perhaps the stripped water-pump gear caused enough overheating that the steels are warped. I will check them on a mirror. If there are no original GG ones around hopefully these fibres can still be used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhbul Posted May 13, 2015 Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 Hario, Thanks and am glad to be of help. Combination plate fiber against clutch basket 1st in, ended up w/ fiber against pressure plate. A help for bleeding, from the bottom up I use a smaller pump oil can (new or really clean) w/ short length of fuel line. Just A way of bleeding. Clutch & front brake usually pretty easy, rear not so nice. For the Pampera, all good springs probably necessary. Have a nice day, BTW where are you? Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazybond700 Posted May 14, 2015 Report Share Posted May 14, 2015 (edited) Whatever you do please take this as experience with the earlier design GG, (2001 TXT in my hands), do not use aftermarket clutch plates! Been there. You have the best clutch GG ever had IMHO, Mine has s***f*** junk and without careful attention will not release properly, not unlike some other brands. The original clutch plates you show look fine,not sure about the order as to the first plate in, Sherpa T will slip when kicking if first plate is not steel when using Barnett plates and 4 springs, several early GG in our group, all w/4 springs, running Dexron. My experience only. The position is inportant, do not remember the right way though out of my head. /see its has been answered good above ! Edited May 14, 2015 by crazybond700 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hario Posted June 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2015 Thought i would report back now the problem is sorted. I've changed the water pump gear etc. now and checked over the clutch. Going by the figures you posted Larry my clutch pack looks fine, I can't recall the exact numbers but it seems to have plenty of life left. I also checked the steels on a mirror and none are warped. The basket itself seems secure, it has a little free play but nothing concerning. I cleaned out all of the aluminium paste i could get at, and now i'm just going to give it a change of cheap (bike specific) 10w40 every ride until it comes out looking good. There is clearly quite a bit of it in there as the oil has a grey shimmer to it i originally thought was the water pump seal, but now i suspect is aluminium puree still its coming out and that's the key thing. I am sure there is a chance all that material in the oil could ruin an engine bearing, but im going to wait and see. BUT! I have now put a 200miles on the bike and its running great, no clutch slip and just a touch of drag (which i quite like). The popping into neutral I'm sure is just my big feet catching the gear lever occasionally. Big thanks to everyone who contributed in this thread, you have been great and I really appreciate it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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