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Serious Issues With My 04' 290


hamburgler
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Ill try to make this runnup to my problem quick because i know no likes a long story.

 

Bought a used 04 290 a couple weeks ago,worked well,brought it home,worked well.Started ripping thru it and doing some service on it since it seemed like it had been neglected.Did all the normal stuff,changed the oil,cleaned the carb,air filter,greased bearings blah blah blah.

 

Tried to start it yester day and it starts but runs like crap,as soon as i pop it into first the bike wants to take off,strange ,didnt do that when i got it(wrong oil?i used 10w 40 automotive oil,probly gonna change it again to amsoil dirt bike oil).Rip down the street and the bike dies and wont start again.Pop the plug off and put a tad bit of gas into the cylinder,kick it and she fires up but dies.

 

Today i pull the carb and find that one of the lines has a cut in it,that must be the issue,its sucking in air.new line,doesnt work.Pop the carb off and clean it,check the reeds,checked spark(great),petcock,fresh gas.Pop the header off because it didnt look like it was sealing well and drop the header by accident,tons of gas pours out.Buddy comes over and were chatting and i decide to pop the carb off again and so i take the air box off,feels heavy,its full of gas!!Ok,must be floats or the lines on this carb are wrong(does a deloorto have breather lines?),i try to kick the bike over to get the gas out of the head and gas gets coughed up out the exhaust at the head BUT heres the great part,as im kick i see bubbles coming fromt the ignition cover,take that off and gas comes out of there too.post-21446-0-18027100-1437788456_thumb.jpg

 

Im thinking the lines on the carb got routed badly(see picture) and that filled the header and air box with gas and due to kickin it repeatedly the gas compressed and had nowehere to go and so it blew the crankcase seal.

 

Can anyone chime in on this?

 

Thanks

Edited by hamburgler
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Jesus man,

 

The small line going from one side to the other is the bowl vent, which id why it was cut open. Just cut it in two and trim each side to about 30-40 mm in length and do not connect them.

 

This may well be why the floats could not cut off the fuel as pressure built in the bowl so the engine flooded with fuel.

 

Remove spark plug and disconnect ignition. Turn bike upside down and work the kickstart lever to get all the fuel out of the motor before more damage. Connect tank directly to carb to insure fuel cuts off as a test.

 

Vent the magneto cover. Then see if it runs.

 

You likely needed crank seals all along if they leaked. Do both sides in the Viton from Splatshop.

 

Inspect for up-down play in the flywheel. You may need main bearings as well, the bike is soon 12 years on you know!

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Thanks guys.At least now i know where to to start.Is there any chance i can ride it for a bit until i get parts to start rebuilding or will gas leak through the crankcase seal?

Also didnt know i had to turn the pet cock off while not riding,ill make sure its turned off from now on.

 

 

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Thanks guys.At least now i know where to to start.Is there any chance i can ride it for a bit until i get parts to start rebuilding or will gas leak through the crankcase seal?

Also didnt know i had to turn the pet cock off while not riding,ill make sure its turned off from now on.

Just see if you can get it running first. Seals can be done without a major teardown and if it was running it will still most likely! Does not mean they are in good health, though.

Edited by copemech
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Alright,did eevrything you suggested and it started right up,didnt idle well but some quick adjustments took care of that.One odd thing was that some liquid(oil?) was coming out of the engine venting hose,it came out in a steady stream and gradually stopped.

 

So for now ill ride it but im ordering a bottom end rebuild kit  and plan on doing the crank seals as soon as i get them and the bottom end in the winter.

 

Copemech,you mentioned not having to do a mjor teardown for the seals.Can you gimme a brief rundown of how i could do that without splitting the cases?

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Easy job to do seals

 

Remove the ignition cover, flywheel & stator for the ignition side. Use a self tapping/wood screw into the seal a couple of turns only then work the seal out using vice grips

Drain the coolant & remove the clutch cover & primary drive gear from the crank as well as key. Use the same technique to remove the seal

To replace you need something to use as a seal driver that will go around the crank, a piece of plastic tubing is ideal if you can find the right size. Add a little silicon grease between the lips of the seals before gently tapping them home

A new clutch cover gasket will be needed but chances are it's only the ignition side that needs doing as you don't mention excessive smoke

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Just be careful sliding the seal onto the shaft that you don't catch an edge or get the seals tipped over in the housing as you fit them, haven't done a set in ages but it is something most people can manage if they take their time

Personally I'd do the ignition side seal first & see if that fixes the issues & worry about the clutch side when you replace your main bearings over winter which is also a fairly easy job which you will have seen from the downloadable manuals.

Remember to look where the stator plate sits before you remove it, there should be a mark that lines up with the edge of the top back mounting post but it may have been adjusted slightly to alter the power delivery

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I thought I had to remove the clutch basket in order to remove the primary drive gear? Possibly not but I did anyway.

 

The gears can get stuck, requiring a thin lipped puller to get under them. I tapped mine loose with a small slide dammer setup. Did not require much, but more than prying against the cases and risking damage.

 

The large nuts on each end of the crank and the clutch hub are the most critical on the motor. Proper torque required and with proper holding fixtures pref.

 

At the very least, scribe them so they may be put back iin situ or slightly beyond using a proper rattle gun.(the quick way)

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Hmm interesting,well it seems to be working pretty good with the hoses cut in two and ive ordered a seal for the ignition side,so hopefully itll all be good once done.Bike seems  a bit underpowered but maybe thats my imagination.

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