pezza Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 Hi all, I'm new here, so thought I would start by attaching some pics of my first Fantic....It's a 200, rear kick model in brilliant mechanical condition. The engine sounds tight and crisp with no rattles and starts second kick every time...I am not sure of the age, but would guess and#39;79-and#39;80...? Is there any way of identifying the agae of these bikes from the engine or frame no's? I love the bike as it is, and just intend to tidy it up really..... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bilks Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 (edited) Try here http://www.tytrials.wanadoo.co.uk/Fantic/Fantic%20Models.htm looks very nice i loved mine but sadly long gone. Edited August 26, 2015 by bilks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon v8 Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 That looks very tidy and original. I'd just service it and ride - they are a VERY capable little bike... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fantic tom Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 Lovely looking bike! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
furse Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 Look under the tank, there will be a date stamp, this should give roughly the age. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wakka Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 Very nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pezza Posted August 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2015 Thanks for all the replies and positive comments guys. No doubt I will have many questions as I go along.....! When I first decided I wanted a twin-shock trials bike, I had my heart set on a TY250 or 175, but after reading several articles and reviews (and comparing prices!) I realised I was missing a trick by overlooking the Fantic. It is a brilliant bike and far more capable than I will ever be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maggar Posted August 27, 2015 Report Share Posted August 27, 2015 (edited) You won't go far wrong with the Fantic 200. I have just completed a rebuild on my second one and am now going back to riding that instead of my 303 Mono. A few people tried to put me off the little Fantic saying it would be underpowered for me but the 200 (156cc) actually produced more power than the Bultaco 250 Sherpa T of the time and is more than enough for any type of trial you might want to ride in. It has about 25% more power than the TY175 and is lighter and steers better than just about any other bike you'll see in twinshock trials, including the larger capacity Fantics. It is possibly only bettered by the 200 Professional but they are like rocking horse sh!t (if you find one - buy it!) and the tricked up TLR's and Majesty's. I hope you enjoy your bike and if you want to ask any questions when it comes to restoring I'd be happy to help you out where I can; I've made most of the mistakes you can and fixed them on the two bikes we've done. Edited August 27, 2015 by maggar 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pezza Posted August 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 Thanks Maggar, I love your bikes and personally think the white frames look great, they are still unmistakeably Fantic, but with a twist! I am not sure how far I want to take mine, as I'd like to keep it as original as possible but just tidy and update one or two things.....I say that now, but looking on here, people just can't stop tinkering can they?! The mudguards are the first on my list as neither are original (the rear one is made up of two separate ones overlapping each other....!) Probably just a cheap fix at the time! Also the side panels and seat are tatty and will be replaced. Any top tips on the best place to source these? I've seen seats (brand new from Italy) on the bay for £125....is that about right? Thanks again for the help and I'm sure those wont be the last questions I have to ask! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maggar Posted August 28, 2015 Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 (edited) Thanks mate, I like the white frame too but with yours being as good as it is I'd be inclined to agree that it should be kept original. The seats which are on Ebay at £125 are Fantic 240 seats I think and they are a different fit make sure before you order. There are Fantic 200 seats on Ebay at "£150 - Make Offer", you might save a tenner or so by making an offer. The other option is Bob Wright (Google search him), he had some 200 seats in as well. I have replaced my side panels with the metal ones bought from Ad-tek Products which came powder coated red and complete with the sticker kit are much more robust and a bit cheaper than the plastic ones without stickers. I don't know whether they have any more or are going to make some more but their Ebay shop is empty at the moment. If you Google them there's a "Contact Us" option on their website, you could ask them on there. If you want the original style plastic ones I'd contact Bill Pye at Frankfield Garage in Great Ayton. There is nothing that Bill doesn't know about Fantics and he's a cracking bloke who will be happy to talk through any problems you have. You can get good replacement mudguards from InMotion Trials for about £49 (rear) £32 (front) but it might be worth checking to see if Bill or Bob has them any cheaper. If you do replace them it's worth putting some adhesive heat shield padding on the part where the rear guard goes around the exhaust / silencer join. If you are going to repaint the frame or panels and you need rattle cans I have loads that you can have (I painted the first bike's panels but then opted to powder coat the frames). I have a few odds and sods left over from doing my two bikes so before you part with your hard-earned for that annoying little part give me a shout (because it might be one of the bits I have spare. Good luck. Edited August 28, 2015 by maggar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pezza Posted September 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 Brilliant, thanks mate, I'm going to replace and repair anything obvious, and just enjoy riding it for now. It will probably be a compromise between keeping it original and making it suit me and how I ride - nothing too extreme! Just out of interest, do those nice looking, old style front mudguard brackets fit the mounting points for the newer style ones without any modification? I'd love to do a full strip-down, paint and rebuild on her, but having too much fun on it for the moment...maybe next winter...?! Ps, if anyone re-made the little tool-box cap, I reckon they'd sell heaps, I've yet to see a bike with one still on it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maggar Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 Yes, the mudguard brackets I have on mine fit the same holes as the original ones. You're spot on about the toolbox cover, you've more chance of finding hen's teeth in a pile of unicorn sh!t. If you want it I have a rear mudguard in one piece from one of the 200's. You can have it. Message me with your address if you want it and I'll post it down to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pezza Posted September 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 Thanks so much for the kind offer of the mudguard mate, but I have just had a new one arrive from In-Motion so will be fitting that shortly. Any tips on getting positioning right, as there are no holes in the new guard, or is it pretty obvious? The current one(s) seems to be fixed from underneath up into the rear frame loop, though I notice some bikes have small tabs welded on and some are just bolted right through the loop. From your pics it looks like you have one of each. I'm a terrible welder, so will just use the current set-up if possible... As I also hope to get a new seat before too long, I am wondering whether that will affect the positioning of the mudguard (so-as not to leave a gap between the seat base and guard) and therefore should not fit it until the seat arrives, or whether that will not make any difference? Once again, thanks for the advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maggar Posted September 22, 2015 Report Share Posted September 22, 2015 The position of the mudguard is dictated by the "cut out" shaping around the exhaust / silencer connection to a large extent. You'll want to stick some heat protection onto the mudguard around that point to stop it melting as it will touch the exhaust otherwise. It's a two man job to fit as you need someone checking that the mudguard is 'square on' looking from the back of the bike then mark through the holes and drill - nothing worse than looking at a twisted mudguard forever! If your's doesn't have the lugs on the frame loop I would go with round profile or countersunk type allen bolts to stop you catching the bolt heads all the time - I need to change my one like that. There should be a small metal plate which fixes across the two mounting holes underneath the mudguard, if you haven't got that make sure you have a couple of washers on to stop the nuts being pulled through the plastic when you tighten it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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