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Rim Band Issue


dekon
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I have a 2004 Rev3 and there is a spot about an 1.5"(about 38mm) long of corrosion on the rim right where the rim band lip is.  It is causing a leak.  Looking for opinions on what I should do.  I know there are many treads on TC about this issue, so searching for a good repair made my head spin.  Getting a new rim is out of the question and putting a tube in it is a last resort as I have a brand new tire on it now.  Thanks for the help.

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Best is to get rid of rim tape, fit a bolt in valve, then coat rim band area with 2 mm coat of Sikaflex or http://www.geocel.co.uk/catalogue/single-brand/trade-mate-range/trade-mate-lead-and-gutter-seal. Do not use acetoxy type silicone, it will cause corrosion

 

Only problem with this solution is when it leaks again you wont be able to solve it, plus for it to work every single spoke needs to be 100% leak proof.

If its just a small area could it be welded?

Edited by nigel dabster
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You are suffering what many owners have suffered with in the past and it can drive you mad.

I struggled with an '05 Gasgas rim for months, tried everything from bead sealer, slime, tyre weld, chemical metal, new bands, you name it, I tried it!

In the end, if I started with a new rim, it would have cost me half the price!

 

If it's only a small scabby section, you might be able to clean it up and bodge it for a while, but to sort it properly a new/better rim is needed.

 

Most of the time these rims leak because the spokes need attention, a couple of loose spokes cause the rim to flex and disturb the rim bands seal or the spokes/nipples stand too proud and lift the band.

You notice the air will escape from the spokes with a quick spray of soapy water.

 

The trick Beta came up with was to clean the rim off and make sure the sprokes are tight.

Fit a new band (try one with the valve moulded in)

Then run two beads of Sikaflex around each edge of the band.

It's important you let it go off fully for a couple of days before fitting the tyre.

 

You can get away with running a tube, it's not ideal though as you are always wondering if it will nip or slip.

If you do try it, don't go for a baggy one, these tend to nip them between the rim easily.

 

Most tubes usually cover different widths, so try one that has a max size of 400 (like a 350/400) rather than 400 or 400+.

It'll keep it's shape better at lower pressures rather than go baggy.

 

I run a heavy duty 350 in my MAR and it's never given me a minutes trouble.

 

Edited by goudrons
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Totty, just regular Slime?  Won't that just coat the tire?  Or, does the air leak draw the Slime to the point of the leak?

 

The escaping air takes it with it. The product I used was called Goop, it's bright green with black flecks of rubber in it.

I cleaned up the rim removing all old silicone and loose corrosion, fitted a rim band, checked that it leaked as expected, removed valve core, put in 1/2 bottle of Goop (a bit of a pain as valve kept blocking, used a foot pump to clear it each time). A bit leaked out around a few spokes and from a leak in the tyre that I hadn't previously spotted (which it leaked and resealed a couple of times when riding). It was fine like this for over a year.

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Only problem with this solution is when it leaks again you wont be able to solve it, plus for it to work every single spoke needs to be 100% leak proof.

If its just a small area could it be welded?

 

This does work, check the spokes are tight before applying sealant. You coat the whole well area including the spoke heads (everywhere the rim band covered) You can even adjust the spokes a little afterwards when sealant is dry, the heads turn under the sealant. I know of bikes treated in this way that have not leaked in over two years. If it does leak just put the rim in water to see where the leak is, scrape off the faulty area of old sealant and recoat.

 

You can get a special liquid for this method of sealing (quite expensive) It is supplied by cycle shops for converting tube type rims to tubeless tyre use.

Edited by dadof2
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I have a slow leak and would like to try the Sikaflex method.  However, I'm in the US and have never heard of Sikaflex.  What exactly is it?  Is there just one type?  If it does not work, can you clean it off and go back to the previous state?

Edited by mcman56
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I have a slow leak and would like to try the Sikaflex method.  However, I'm in the US and have never heard of Sikaflex.  What exactly is it?  Is there just one type?  If it does not work, can you clean it off and go back to the previous state?

 

Try West Marine for Sikoflex products.

May also find it at a plastics supply company. (plexiglass/ lexan)

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I have a slow leak and would like to try the Sikaflex method.  However, I'm in the US and have never heard of Sikaflex.  What exactly is it?  Is there just one type?  If it does not work, can you clean it off and go back to the previous state?

Home Depot sell it in a tube that goes in a caulking gun. It really is the best way to repair a leaking tubeless rim.

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This does work, check the spokes are tight before applying sealant. You coat the whole well area including the spoke heads (everywhere the rim band covered) You can even adjust the spokes a little afterwards when sealant is dry, the heads turn under the sealant. I know of bikes treated in this way that have not leaked in over two years. If it does leak just put the rim in water to see where the leak is, scrape off the faulty area of old sealant and recoat.

 

You can get a special liquid for this method of sealing (quite expensive) It is supplied by cycle shops for converting tube type rims to tubeless tyre use.

 

So you never true your rims or break a spoke?

 

IMHO its better to do a job properly once, yes you can bodge but as goudrons says it costs more in the end, and more likely to give trouble at an event.

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Sure you'll need to run a tube with one or two extra pounds of pressure in it,  if it's dry that won't be too much of a problem.

But it gets you out on your bike with a bit of reliability until you can sort the problem properly.

 

There's nothing worse than dragging your bike miles out to an event, stumping up the entry fee, then packing up and going home after 5 minutes because a bodge hasn't worked.

I've done it too often to mention! (feckin' old Gasgas!)

 

A new Morad rim methinks is around £150, may be less if you shop around.

Getting it laced and trued (if you don't fancy the job yourself) won't break the bank either, there's usually someone in your club that can do it for a bit of beer money.

 

That's the way I look at it as £150 to me is the cost of travel and entry to two, maybe three events.

 

Other than that, keep an eye out and see if you can pick up a decent used wheel, fitting a tube will buy you the time.

Edited by goudrons
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