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Tubed Back To Tubeless


wayneniner
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The bike I bought has now been thru 2 tubes....didn't know that trials bikes are supposed to come with a tubeless rear, derp.  (the PO(or one of the 3 before me) sold me the bike with a tube installed....how should I know? I am just a 32 yo kid :)

 

The valve is being pulled off the tube(if you didn't already know what this thread was about)

 

So, I want to go back to a tubeless setup.

I know that I will need:

 

a tubeless tire

an air valve for tubeless tire

Tire irons

tubeless beader....

 

Do I need a new "flap"/rim strip?  does the rim strip actually help hold air? (in a tube setup, rimstrip is there strictly to protect tube from spoke "nipples" AFAIK)   In other words, should I order a new rim strip?

 

 

Any tips regarding doing this or extra tools/supplies I will need?

 

My main concern is that the last Tubeless Tire that was installed couldn't hold air...meaning the rim was leaking. (thru spokes or elsewhere)  AND that is why a tube was installed.

the rim looks good, no dents.

 

 

Lets say there are leaks from the spokes/nipples....

is the cause just old age(2007 rev3)?  are the nipples enlarging the holes in the rim?    is it the rim strip isn't sealing? (assuming the rim strip is supposed to seal at all)

 

 

thanks

 

 

 

 

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thanks lineaway...new strap/strip/flap will be ordered.

 

so, losing a little air with tubeless tires is normal?  how long should it hold for?   (what's a slow leak? losing 1 psi/month?     what's a fast leak? down 0psi in 3 days?)

I have no problem checking pressure before every ride...I do this anyway. (just gauging what's considered fast/slow leak)

 

 

 

 

 Should I get one of those bead mounting tubes? (aka "tire beader"...the $40 "tool") 

http://lewisportusa-com.3dcartstores.com/TIRE-BEEDER_p_1017.html

 

 

Lastly, I saw this valve stem for $1....it's a Myers TR-412 Rubber Valve Stem.... anybody know if this will work on stock Rev 3 wheel/rim?  

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/726/19762/Myers-TR-412-Rubber-Valve-Stems?term=tubeless+valve+stem

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See the links below, if you are going to rotate and change your tyre two or three times a year this is a brilliant tool ( you will need to have an air compressor to use it) see it in action on YouTube.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mechanics-Workshop-Garage-Motorcycle-Tyre-Bead-Breaker-Motorbike-Tyre-Changer-/400800672615?hash=item5d5194eb67

And you will find this helpful as well

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mechanics-Workshop-Garage-Motorcycle-Tyre-Bead-Breaker-Motorbike-Tyre-Changer-/400800672615?hash=item5d5194eb67

Both items are generic and I have not selected any particular brand, choose on cost and quality.

Edited by jfc
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Most tyres will come off the rim with a boot or at worst a small spade will do it or a bit of 2x4 as stated above.

A beader is a great thing to have as if you cant get a tubeless seated it wont inflate.

you must make sure the rim tape is installed 100% this is the most important thing.

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Put some silicone sealer over each spoke nipple under the rim tape. This has worked for me everytime, provided the rim is in good shape. I've found that different make tyres seal better than others, I put a brand new pirelli on an old rim for practing on. It was a pig to fit and a right pig to get it to blow onto the rim. I expected it to seal good, but after 3 days it was flat. I took it off and put an old X11 mich back on, this stays up for months.

 

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from what I've read(including your posts, Nigel)..I will try to do it 'right way' with just patience(cleaning surfaces/etc..a lot of soap) and a new rim strip w/ the built in valve.  (ie: no silicone/sealant)

 

If I can't get it right, I will go the silicone route after a few attempts trying to seat strip and tire correctly. 

 

 

 

 yes, I recently picked up a spoke torque wrench...I used to go by ears(that is when motivated enough to mess with spoke maintenance), but I had some frequent buyer points and a coupon code so I picked up this spoke torque wrench:

 

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/731/32034/Tusk-Spoke-Torque-Wrench-Kit?term=spoke+torque+wrench

 

seems pretty quality..not sure it's needed but don't want to overtorque spokes + I have 2 other bikes (honda xrs) that need wheel attention.

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oh...and anyone want to talk me out of a Dunlop D803 TL?  hard to mount?  leaky?  

 

It's basically $100 for the D803 vs. about $220 for the Michelin(Lite?) or about $200 for the Michelin X11. (these prices include shipping)

Edited by wayneniner
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Please don't bodge it with silicone, yes will seal it, but the corrosion it causes will ruin the rim, it can also seize the nipples to the spokes so the rim can't be trued again even after removing the silicone.

I'm sure I'm not the only one who has bought a used bike and found that a pervious owner has ruined the rim with silicone.

If you can't get it to seal as intended use a comparatively harmless tyre sealant like slime or goop, or a non acidic sealant like some forms of sikaflex.

Edited by totty79
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It should seal and be air tight if you do it right.

 

First job is to clean the inside of the rim.

Check it for corrosion as they can rot and bubble up.

If it's like this, you'll probably not get it to seal.

 

Make sure all the spokes are tight and the wheel is properly trued.

Loose spokes will make the rim flex and lift the band

 

Fit a new band, best ones I've found have the valve moulded to the band.

Make sure is seats in the groove properly, like a big U.

Soapy water helps getting it to fit.

 

Sounds obvious, but check the tyre that it's a tubeless tyre and has no defects in the beading.

 

Plenty of soapy water again aids fitting.

 

Some way of holding the tyre to the rim is usually needed to inflate.

There are tyre beaders (Which between Yoo and Mee I can't mention) that hold the tyre over and pop out when inflated (soap again) or sometimes I've managed to use a ratchet strap right around the tyre to hold it on.

 

Inflate it until the bead pops out all the way around both sides then spray around with soapy water, check the rim/tyre seal and the spokes for leaks.

If it's leaking you'll see from where.

 

When you want to take the tyre off, you need to push the bead over a bump in the rim.

As mentioned a small, blunt spades works well.

Deflate the tyre (remove valve core) lay the wheel flat on grass, place the spade down the side of the rim on the tyre.

Then just push the bead down, it'll pop off after a bit of huffing and puffing!

 

 

Edited by goudrons
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from what I've read(including your posts, Nigel)..I will try to do it 'right way' with just patience(cleaning surfaces/etc..a lot of soap) and a new rim strip w/ the built in valve.  (ie: no silicone/sealant)

 

If I can't get it right, I will go the silicone route after a few attempts trying to seat strip and tire correctly. 

 

 

 

 yes, I recently picked up a spoke torque wrench...I used to go by ears(that is when motivated enough to mess with spoke maintenance), but I had some frequent buyer points and a coupon code so I picked up this spoke torque wrench:

 

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/731/32034/Tusk-Spoke-Torque-Wrench-Kit?term=spoke+torque+wrench

 

seems pretty quality..not sure it's needed but don't want to overtorque spokes + I have 2 other bikes (honda xrs) that need wheel attention.

 

there was a video on ryp website i think which showed how to get a rim band on, not sure you need alot of soap though.

 

If you are adjusting spokes use wd 40 or similar for a week or so to ease

 

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