Jump to content

Climber Kill Switch.


b40rt
 Share

Recommended Posts

 

 

OK, the handlebar mounted kill switch is fed from CDI terminal 1 and should be blue/black trace. The other 3 CDI terminals, fed from the generator are:

2 = Brown

3 = Red

4 = White

This is on a '93 Climber 280

If you want the schematic, let me have an email address.

Steve

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 

I am sure it is, but I will check the wiring diagram when I get home and confirm.

Steve

You were correct, kill switch working thanks.

The engine is running pretty good at the bottom end, but smoking heavily if reved. Will try it again tomorrow in case it's just accumulated crap. I suspect its engine oil however (the engine was bought second hand with no real history) What is the usual suspect ? Central casing joint, or disc valve seal ? Right hand side is dry, and left hand crank seal is behind disc valve, correct ? Anybody any experience ?

Have a Great New Year when it comes to all. Ross

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 

Unless the crank cases have been split, its unlikely to be the centre joint. Just out of interest what oil/petrol ratio have you mixed?

Hi, pretty sure the cases have been split by PO. Running at 50:1, I always use that ratio in rotax motors so familiar with the "normal" smokescreen !

Edited by b40rt
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Hi Ross,

Years ago, I worked for the SWM importers, so my knowledge is mainly of the aircooled motors. That said, the bottom end was pretty similar. I can recall only one time where a l/h crank seal caused a problem and that was a spin off from a mains failure. If I remember correctly, not only did it smoke more, it also ran like a pig at bottom of the rev range and there was also evidence of blow thorough in the clutch case.

I also remember that we ran at 100:1 mix using some 'witches brew' 2 stroke oil that Century/Fuchs provided.

Be interested to know what you find. What year is your Climber?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Hi Racehunter, slight confession. It's now air cooled and in an swm. I originally bought the bottom end for the clutch casing, so didn't ask to many questions about its history. The cdi unit was missing so looked at getting one being manufactured in Germany, but cost about 300€ ! Eventually found one on ebay at a sensible price. (The previous engine in the swm will get rebored and have a new big end, and will be kept as a spare if this one is ok.)

I'm sure Martin M said that if the o ring seal on the disc valve cover is damaged (or missing) it can draw oil in this way. Later today I will run it again and see if improves. Thanks for your help. Ross

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

No problem. Yes I agree in theory that a damaged or missing o ring in the cover would cause a problem, but that would only be down to the previous owners lack of skill/awareness. That said, loose disc valve cover screws would cause the same result.

Good luck

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
  • 2 weeks later...

Update, the oil seal in the disc valve cover was rattling about and far from being seated properly. I have a new one so will fit and hope !!

 

The disc valve o ring is in good condition, and screws were tight.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
  • Create New...