mrooney Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 Hi Looking for a little help, pointers and/or where to start. I'm no and#39;mechanic god' so assume nothing. I bought a 199A sherpa off eBay. Its not been run regularly but it has had quite a bit work done and looks generally tidy. Bit of a risk as bought it unseen. Got delivered home, filled up with fuel/oil mix and my excitement I managed to start it after several go's. Choke doesn't seem to do much, fiddled on and off. Eventually fired with wide open throttle. Went for a ride and whilst it tick overs quite sweetly seem low on power and does free rev. Can pull a wheelie in any gear for example. Had another go today. cleaned carb out but nothing in there all clean... looks very new its a Mikuni carb. Went for a ride same symptoms and eventually getting it started again wide open throttle was the only setting to get it going. Again ticked over nicely but not sharp revving. After 5 mins stopped on me. May have left fuel off. Cant get started again ! Gave up ! So in summary: Low power / revving but good tick over and plenty of torque low down revs. Terrible to start... killer on the leg and lungs ! Compression good ! I checked for spark, get one not sure if strong but there is one. Bike obviously not used much been in storage a while I think. ... Where should I start? Need this thing to reasonably reliable. Not called the local motorcycle shop jut yet. Ideas, pointers very appreciated. mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cleanorbust Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 (edited) As a first approach, checking of fuel system and ignition is advisable. Have you removed the jets from the carb and ensured they are all clear? Also empty the tank and use fresh petrol, with the correct mix of two stroke oil of course. If you're trying to run it on old stuff then you're on a loser! Make sure the air filter element is clean, and that the rubber unions attaching to both sides of the carb are properly located and the clips fully tightened. Would be worth checking the ignition timing, if you're not sure on how to then check back to us here, but as a first line of approach you could clean up the faces of the points through the window in the flywheel using sandpaper over the end of a screwdriver. Also fit a new plug, easy to do and can work wonders! Edited January 12, 2016 by cleanorbust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bestrcpilot Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 Check the points and timing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrooney Posted January 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 Thanks... Yes Carb and jet look clean. No aide leaks. I'll check points and see if I clean without pulling flywheel as I don't have a puller. Timing need to see how to do this? M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 Could pay to have the carb put through an ultrasonic cleaning bath, if it's not been run regularly then the internal passages can clog. Fairly cheap to do & removes any dried up fuel from the passages & jets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike350 Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 Hi Mark, Nice bike! I have one just like it. It looks like a recent restoration, so I'm wondering if the Mikuni is new? I'd play with the air screw. The carbs come with correct jets but the air will still need setting up properly. Mine certainly did when I swapped it for the original Bing. The symptoms were a lot like you describe. Wind it all the way in, then back it up two turns. Run the bike and adjust until the tick over levels out. You need a longish screw driver because you need to get in past the exhaust. Then throw the points away and fit electric ignition!! Best of luck Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhbul Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 Welcome, and please tell us where you are. Starting w/Mikuni: choke lever down throttle closed, once started lever back up. Try to not call the shop as we are here to help you thru this. Larry 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrooney Posted January 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 Well tried all that in so much as my skills allow, blood still spurting from my hands ! Recommendations for a pro shop near Newark upon Trent ? M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrooney Posted January 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 Hi Just got the last additional posts thanks you. I think I'll get a new plug tomorrow. I've cleaned it and gapped but looks well worn. Carb I'll look into that. Can't get the bloody thing started at the moment and my leg is dropping off. There is a spark but it looks weak to me. Points look clean but electronic ignition seems a good thought... How much ? Still I polished the tank in defeat off starting, bike it looks pretty good even if it doesn't work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted January 13, 2016 Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 Nice bike i notice it looks like you have no headsteady on the cylinder head? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dadof2 Posted January 13, 2016 Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 (edited) New or known good plug first Clean points and set points gap at 0.35 to 0.4mm Timing is 3.25 BTDC but there is no reason why it should be wrong. My guess is its the ignition source coil in the stator of the HT coil. Fitting electronic ignition? The standard points set up usually works fine and is a lot cheaper but does need checking every 30 to 50 hours riding. Edited January 13, 2016 by dadof2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrooney Posted January 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 Bondy What's a head steady? I see a bracket on the head. M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guys Posted January 13, 2016 Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 (edited) The head steady is the bracket that connects the Cyl. head with the frame Also check if the condenser is ok, and mount it under the fuel tank instead of under the ignition cover, it gets to hot there and fails, I'm told. And make sure the clutch doesn't slip. Even the slightest slipping of the clutch on my 350, makes it very hard to get it going. Edited January 13, 2016 by guys 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted January 13, 2016 Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 As above you need the headsteady. Also i have same bike with electric ignition easy tofit and just for get about it saves all the messing about with points mine was stood for 8 months fresh fuel started straight away no trouble. some like them some don't mine runs great on 1 would recommend buying 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted January 13, 2016 Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 As above you need the headsteady. Also i have same bike with electric ignition easy tofit and just for get about it saves all the messing about with points mine was stood for 8 months fresh fuel started straight away no trouble. some like them some don't mine runs great on 1 would recommend buying 1 p.s if you plane on riding a plastic tank would be better be ashame to ruin the Alloy tank if you come off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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