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Ossa Explorer Questions


johnmc408
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Hi, recently bought a 2012 Explorer and have read a ton of posts, but have a few questions:

 

What is the lowest tire pressure I can run?

I read lotus54 put in a tubless system (I have this in my dirtbike).

But, since this is a trials bike, I am wondering how low I can go w/o pinch flats...

(The online manual seems to say about 7 & 10 PSI (.5/.6 bars)  That seems a lot for the rear tire)

 

What about initial suspension setup for trials riding?

and then for trails?

The manual doesn't seem to have anything on this at all.

I know I need to experiment, but I really need a starting point for ~160lbs.

Does the rear shock need a special tool or can I re-use something inexpensive?

 

I am going to upgrade to the quick start setup.  I can start it, but it takes quite a bit of effort...

 

The clutch pull is great for a trail bike, but, compared to the 2002 Sherco 2.9 I have been riding it is

a noticeably heavier.  Are there any solutions?  I am going to try adjusting where the friction point

is, but not sure if that will change the pull.  (BTW, I am using 450ml of 0/10w, per lewisport)

 

1 test ride so far.  It is quite fun and nice to sit down once in a while.

 

Hope Ossa is able to get back to producing new bikes in the near future!

 

Thanks for the help.

 

 

 

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Tyre pressures are always academical. With trials bike they are much more lower than this, but Explorer isn't really a strictly trials bike, it's more of a trail bike, hence heavier, ment for sitting on and thus requires higher tyre pressures to avoid punctures.

 

Suspension set up according to your individual needs. Set the sag 30% of the suspension travel. Meaning when you're on the bike  it should fall 6-8 centimeters from the longest position (i.e. bike on a center-stand). You do not need a special key, any c-spanner will do adjusting the rear shock spring preload. Once the correct sag is set for your weight then start setting dampening and rebound - this is very individual according to your riding style and conditions. Adjust as you daily ride, but once getting close to near ideal-range dont go more than 1-2 clicks from one or other direction.

 

2012 clutch probably isn't the best "feel" of OSSAs since they've upgraded the clutch almost every model release. Later clutches being noticably better than the first models I've heard, my 2013 is fine as far as I can tell, very good and light feel. If it's too annoying buy a new complete clutch, but remember it requires some skill to set the thickness exacly right and to correctly adjust it.

 

Hope this helps.

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If tubeless tyre, as low as 4psi, if Michelin ? If trial/trail, I guess plenty of damping wound on, ohlins have a good shock that one or two clicks makes a lot of difference, you need to try what you think is best for your weight etc.

It's a crap way to do, as you will find out as you cannot get to adjusters!1 get a long ball ended 3mm Allen key.

Clutch pack height is maybe off? Check it, 9.75 is about right. Get a vernier to check.

450mm is to much for that year, try 350 is about right, gro is good oil but ££, I have aftermarket oil that's works great.

Strip rear suspension down and grease up with a good silicon grease as this can seize causing mega trauma!

Check sealing on ecu?

Not sure about ossa producing any more bikes??

Ian ??

Edited by imexian
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The Explorer has the same frame and engine as the TR.

The forks and rear damper are cheaper and nowhere near as good.

The Explorer ca be converted to a Full TR ( well, if you upgrade suspension) in about 15 minutes. The subframe with aux tank, seat, rear fender comes right off.

The 2014 Explorer has tube type tyres front and rear.

So you can't go too low on pressure without getting pinch flats.

I tried the front with low pressure, but got pinch flats.

If your Explorer is tube type also, I recommend fitting the Tubliss system, ditching those horrible Pirelli trials tyres and fit some Michelin X-11 Tubless (if you can find any). The IRC radial works pretty well also - I have not tried the New Dunlop.

I have over 230 hours on the X-11s so far and still work pretty well with very low pressure (5/3 F/R)

I didn't find the stock suspension had much in the way of adjustability. The forks only changed very minimally with the clickers and the rear only has preload.

I fit an Ohlins rear and Marzhocci front- it is a LOT better for trail riding.

There are probably cheaper options than the Ohlins.

I also fit some Twisted Engineering flex bars- it really helps for trail riding when you have mediocre suspension. Not as good for trials, but I did learn I was not preloading with my legs as I though I was.

I understand the later clutches are much nicer than th early ones. Mine is great.

I run a Clake 2 also, which has assisted clutch.

A small Lith-Ion battery can really make the starting easier and is super small. Cheap too.

The easiest way is to just wire in a momentary switch, hit it when starting.

Also make sure the TPS is correct.

I run a hotter sparking plug- I watched the the temperature on it carefully and it is just fine for me use,and setup.

A dirty plug makes it a LOT harder to start.

I don't ride trials very often, it is more fun for me to just trail ride. But the trails I like are much like the intermediate Trials sections I've ridden (or harder).

I get more riding time in and I don't really care about competition.

(All just my opinion of course)

I have around 260 hours on my Explorer, I like it more all the time!

Edited by lotus54
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Thanks Mark, I read a lot of your posts before I bought the Explorer.

 

What is too low on the tire pressure?  I have been using 7.5F & 5R (w/tubes).  The Pirelli doesn't seem to be a good tire, the center knobs are wearing out and they are like new.

 

I am going to see if there is any adjustability in the F&R suspension, but from what you said, I doubt it will be helpful for trails.  I'll wait to decide on the suspension upgrade, depending on how often I ride it.  My current plan is to ride the Explorer on trails until I feel like I can ride it on the dirt bike.  I don't do trials competition, but do want to practice on trials sections.

 

It came with a small battery behind the light and I am able to start it better with more practice.  The guy I bought it from had huge issues with it.  I was going to install the factory 'quick start' kit, but the instructions are insane (to me anyway), so I returned it.

 

I can't set the TPS myself.  I do think it idles too low.  Maybe 1000-1100?  I have to take a 1/2 day off work to get to Lewisport, so can't really do that too often...BTW, with the clutch in, if you crack the throttle, should it rev immediate?  On mine, it has a delay and doesn't really rev.  When I am riding, I don't notice it.  (I sometimes do this to clear the spark plug.  Not sure I should since it is injected...)

 

On the clutch, there was a post on trialscentral, where somebody said you could get a larger clutch reservoir and tube, but no details were mentioned.  It isn't really needed, but would be nice, especially if I were practicing trials sections.

 

Thanks again

 

 

 

 

 

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I'm very happy with the clutch on the 2014.

I'm very much a trials novice, although I place very well in our club events.

I do best when it is slimy/slippery and rooty. Since I ride that all the time.

Plus if really nasty I can just sit down to get great traction and paddle if I need to. A 3 is better an a 5.

I have a LOT more experience getting max traction on hills sitting. I've been working on doing it standing- since control is so much better.

I got pinch flats on the front tube setup when I when below about 6psi.

I certainly recommend the Tubliss system. Just watch the install video a few times and take your time installing.

I can ride with the tyre completely flat and it won't come off the rim.

Where are you located?

From the experience I've had on my bike, once it is setup right- it only needs attention every 100 hours or so.

Easy to update the ECU to a newer map, and Lewisport is doing a ECU exchange to the newer model now I believe.

I fit the BTWICE throttle body, that allows idle speed adjustment without changing the ECU. I've never needed to do it, but if the bike is having any issues being able to change it out on the trail could save a ride.

Your idle should be about 1600 (well, that is memory, could be 1300).

If sounds link you made much closer to Lewisport, but I'm happy. To help out if you are anywhere close to me or are on a riding trip up this way and want do a setup and ride day (I'm very reasonable cost).

I was working on a LithIon batt setup that would either run be connected for a set time (say two minutes) plus automatically connect when running- so it would charge also.

But mine has been starting so well with the easy start I haven't finished the project.

Adrian said mine started 2nd kick out of the crate when new (first 2014 Explorer in the States)

I also swapped the rear brake out for the TR version (perhaps yours already has it)

Mine came with the same caliper on the rear as on the front- with a larger disc and horrible steel mount that would get hit by rocks, bend and mess up the brake action. The TR brake setup works great.

Mark

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