Jump to content

Hello Newbie Here :) Advice Needed


speshal
 Share

Recommended Posts

 

Little late with this post in regard to your #32 post, the carb has MIC on it which goes along with my latest project,

Suzuki rl250,s which there are 2 in the shop now, when doing a jet change I noticed the MIC on them along with

"made in Japan" these two are original & I don't know if China was into producing a Mikuni copy in 1974.

 

From the pictures you have posted the carb is to far away for me to see properly, you can pretty much tell by the

internals what it is.

 

Have a Good day

 

Larry

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Cheers Larry, I think he may have been joking about the "Made in China" bit   ;) on the reverse it says "Mikuni - Japan"

 

On the downside, I know where my impact driver is........Australia, I lent it to a friend who then emigrated.... New one ordered :D

 

On the upside, the frame swap I mentioned previously is most definitely on and  thanks to the wonderful member Twinnshock I should soon have a 199 frame to put my 199-A engine in!

 

post-22741-0-94727400-1470907870_thumb.jpg

 

*Edit - I have no idea why this picture is upside down, was it my Australia comment? :D

Edited by speshal
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
  • 3 weeks later...
 

Looks like a pretty good deal & they say the seals are good,  my only advice will be to shorten the spring

in the seal by 1/4 inch prior to installation.

 

Not my original idea, came from a friend many years ago & I find it very successful with my work.

 

Have a nice day

 

Larry

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Cheers Larry,

I am doing a front to back restoration, I read a few articles on here concerning the Pyramid roller bearings for the yoke, so bought those and these seals came up as a recommendation on eBay :)

I shall investigate the spring shortening :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

i got some off those Pyramid race bearings some while back they dont fit flush theres a gap on the top yoke witch i didnt like so i bought the ones from inmotion much better and they fit perfectly.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
  • 4 weeks later...

Hi guys.

 

Many apologies for no updates but I have been away and slowly but surely wins the race and all that.

 

Mostly I've  been cleaning....... oh my, I've been cleaning, I've always said I'm trying to bring it back to a runner first and then do the cosmetics, but I'm of the opinion that there is no point in putting 39 years worth of mud back on before you have to take it all back off and paint it, so, I started at the top.

 

Funny thing I found, under the grime on the handlebar bracket I found two coloured stickers/inlays one red, one green, I'm guessing for port/left and starboard/right.....

 

So I'm now good to go to fit my new bearings in my new frame (see above)

 

post-22741-0-10043500-1474497888_thumb.jpg

 

Next job is fork seals, I'm going to repaint the lowers when they are off, probably black (eek say the purists :wall:  ) and the forks will need re-chroming eventually as one has some gnarly marks down it.

 

But it's all a learning curve, take it apart to put it back together again!

 

P.s It's previous owner seemed to have somewhat of a cavalier approach to bolt and nut selection, I took the from mudguard support off, 12mm bolts on one side and 10mm on the other  :D

 

Edited by speshal
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

i got some off those Pyramid race bearings some while back they dont fit flush theres a gap on the top yoke witch i didnt like so i bought the ones from inmotion much better and they fit perfectly.

 

Damn bondy, I wish I'd followed your advice  :wall:

 

The top one fits like a glove, the bottom bearing will not slide to the bottom of the stem so I'd either have to find someone with a lathe to skim off 10mm-ish or I should have done what you said and bite the bullet and purchase the correct ones from Inmotion  :wall:

 

Oh well, one lives and learns I guess!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

no no no dont skim anythhing off the stem you have  to warm the bearing up to  expand  so it slides over the raised part at  thhe top off the stem an the bottom this is  to hold the bbearing tight. its only the top alloy screw that sits abit hight if your skimmiing anything it should be the top bearing face to allow the Alloy screw tto sit flush. You can dunk the bearing in a bucket off hot water for 10 mints or do what I do warm up with a hot. Air gun for few mints then it will. Slid over easy.

Edited by bondy
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

You can also just tap the bearing down the shaft using a tube

 

I've used Pyramid bearings a number of times in the past and they have been a correct fit and depth. Check the size they have supplied to you. They should be is 25mm x 45mm x 12mm. They used to have them listed as Bultaco classic bearings

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

no no no dont skim anythhing off the stem you have  to warm the bearing up to  expand  so it slides over the raised part at  thhe top off the stem an the bottom this is  to hold the bbearing tight. its only the top alloy screw that sits abit hight if your skimmiing anything it should be the top bearing face to allow the Alloy screw tto sit flush. You can dunk the bearing in a bucket off hot water for 10 mints or do what I do warm up with a hot. Air gun for few mints then it will. Slid over easy.

 

Yup I tried that but still no joy :(

 

You can also just tap the bearing down the shaft using a tube

 

I've used Pyramid bearings a number of times in the past and they have been a correct fit and depth. Check the size they have supplied to you. They should be is 25mm x 45mm x 12mm. They used to have them listed as Bultaco classic bearings

 

 

 

 

Yup the numbers match it's a 25x45x12mm

 

For the life of me I couldn't work out why the bugger wouldn't fit over the lip at the bottom of the stem, so I got a bit of string and roughly measured the circumference of the lip at the bottom of the stem and got a rough figure of 95mm giving the radius of 30mm(ish)

 

So I spent a while looking for 30x45x12mm bearings (you can find them but they aren't cheap)

 

So I then spent a while looking of pictures of Sherpa stems on here and elsewhere and none of them had a lip on the bottom of the stem.........

 

Can you guess what's coming?

 

It's the bloody bottom half of the loose ball bearing that was in there before!!!!!!!!

 

I feel like such a dunce   :rolleyes:

 

:lol:

Edited by speshal
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
  • 1 month later...

Just a quick update.....

I've been busy buying parts.

 

New tyres, Pirelli MT43's (I'm not riding competition - seemed like a decent/cheap option)

New fork seals and oil

New swing-arm bearings

New rear wheel bearings

New tank...... I'm currently rocking a Montesa Cota tank.....

New electronic ignition (I read the reviews of the Electrex stator kits on here, mostly not favourable, no instructions etc...) so I got one from InMotion (guess what, no instructions with it :lol: ) a quick email to Pete sorted that out (Thanks Pete!)

New Air Filter..

 

So I need a chain/footpegs and a seat and should have it up and running soon!

 

Then my cousin needs to get back to me about an engine rebuild.....

 

Can anyone recommend a decent set of footpegs? the standard brackets have been moved back a bit (I think) 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 
 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
  • Create New...