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Fork Service, Clicks?


dares
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From the backgound of enduro and loads of oilchanges I thougt that a simple fork oilservice would be a pice of cake, but no!

Read some helpful information but not realy a complete explination.

So, went for the classic counted the clicks to max, back to fully release pressure at minus and then loosen the cap. (Drained the oil from the lowest bolt first).

Did all the refilling and air bleeding but when mounting the cap, with the unusal rod stuck to the cap this drives the rod to bottom?!! Leaving no chance of changing the clicks?

Do I have to mount cap/rod at max + so that I later can loosen the compression nut to right set of clicks?

And what is the standard set of clicks?

The Ossa tr280i manual and service manual mostly refers to: put your feet here, hands here and just go ride...

Edited by dares
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What bike/forks are we talking about? I can't quite tell what problem you're having, but when you put the fork cap back on, generally you want to first screw the locknut all the way down (as in towards the ground) as far as it will spin by hand. Then put the cap back on as far as it will go by hand. Then spin the locknut back up to where it meets the cap, tighten it down a bit, and you're done.

 

If you're saying the damping rod provides no damping resistance regardless of where the clickers are, then the problem isn't the clickers.

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Sorry, its a 2013 Tr280i

Clickers work fine!

Most forks you loose the pressure on the clicker (is it called clicker??? Screw?) driving it to minus before opening the cap.

So when i try mounting the cap again with the setting of the dead minus, there is no more than 1-2 clicks before i hit maximum plus.

Is it so that when mounting caps with fixed controll rod it should be at maximum plus clicks?

Edited by dares
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You lost me again. But just so you're aware, that bike has Marzocchi's on it, which are closed cartridge forks. So if you drained the cartridge on the compression/rebound side (by removing the screw at the bottom of the fork, or by disassembling the cartridge) and didn't fill and bleed it properly, all this clicker talk is neither here nor there.

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It does look like someone added some extra holes at the lower tube (sanding marks on some but not all).  Only thing I can think to check is that you didn't get the rebound cap/rod on the compression leg; one leg is comp, one is rebound.

I found an online fork manual at Marzocci, was in spanish but easy enough to follow.  Look for it, it may help (think there was a link from this site/subforum somewhere).  The clickers have about 18 clicks if I remember right, shock has about 25; too many bikes with different forks/shocks.

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Found many service guides for the cartridge type forks. But these seems to be fixed at botton. Impossible to open. Not like any of the pictures I hane seen. Then the next question, stick to 160mm air pocket?

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Cant say more than silver, clear painted. Quite rough molding and machines at the ends. Simple bolt with washer at bottom that has a closed thread hole on the inner mechanics of the suspension. Inner part of suspension has also a o-ring at bottom.

The more I read about it, the more it seems that the forks are as you say from an explorer. Found a picture of the Explorer fork to and I think we got the answer to all this confusion!!!

post-23092-0-70307300-1481308040_thumb.jpg

post-23092-0-91188900-1481311024_thumb.jpg

Edited by dares
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Yes- certainly look like Explorer forks.

 I changed mine to Marzocchi forks- much, much nicer. (Lewisport had a deal on some new ones)

 

I've had mine apart, I don't recall any issue with the clickers.

But they didn't do much either.

 

One leg is compression, one is rebound. 

 

does it have an Ohlins on the rear?

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Nice to sort it out. I will have to change the oil amount in them as I did a 160mm air pocket in both.

Did see that they wrote the amount in explorer manual.

Öhlins yes, think so. With the side position gas chamber?

Edited by dares
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