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Tyres


556tom
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Hi, thanks for the reply.

However just as with other forums i have used in the past, the search function is not too helpful.

From the few bits i have found xlite seems to be the best. Is there some kind of comparison thread? Including typical prices etc.

Thanks

Tom

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As you can probably guess, everyone has an opinion on which tyres to run and some others don't get much of a choice as only Michelin seem to fit later Morad flange type rims properly without deflating on impact. 

(Flange rims have spokes through a flange machined on the rim not through the rim it's self).

 

If your Rev3 is still on the standard rim, (Morad with the spokes through the rim) you need a tubeless tyre on the rear (fronts are all with tube) and are not really limited to which brand as all seem to fit well.

 

Michelins and IRC TR-11's seem to be the most popular along with the 803gp's.

I would take my pick out of these and as already written, shop around.

 

There are, or was a couple of budget trials tyres that are best avoided and Pirelli make the MT43's, these are more road bias tyres and I've never got one to work properly in the mud!

 

If you haven't fitted a tubeless rear before you might be best considering having the shop fit it for you (or ask on here how it's done)

You also might want to get the spokes nipped up and fit a new rubber band/valve at the same time as slack spokes can cause these rims to leak.

Edited by goudrons
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Thanks for the responses guys.

The nobbles on my tyres are very rounded so will need to replace them shortly.

I think i will go for dunlop or IRC,not sure i can justify spending £170 for some xlite tyres with all my other motorcyle hobbies!

My rear tyre can also lose a couple psi over a day period and i read about trying to keep the spokes sealed.

Just another quick one for anybody else with a rev3. When the rear tyre is deflated or very low pressure, either under the weight of the bike, or when the bike is on a centre stand. The tyre sidewall rubs on the chain slider pivot bolt in the swingarm. When the tyre is inflated it's not an issue, maybe just shows how old and out of shape my tyres are......

Everything is fitted correctly e.g wheel spacers etc.

Anybody had that before?

I have the standard type rims and based in Hartlepool (north east england).

Cheers

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It's been a while since I had a Rev3 but I seem to rememeber the mount for the chain tensioner mount did stick out awkwardly.

Though I don't remember it catching the tyre, it did end up looking like it did by all the scuffs and wear on the pivot head.

 

I guess it's possible the rim isn't as true as it once was or your tyre isn't sitting on the rim properly.

 

There's no need to seal the spokes using silicone sealer or the likes of, it can cause the rim to rot as there's something in the sealers hardener that reacts with alloy.

Beta UK wrote an SSDT guide about using a sealer (Sikaflex) around the band to rim edges, but there's just no real need if it's done properly.

 

Remove the rim band and valve, clean up the flakey inner rim, including the grooves the edges of the band fit in.

Then tighten the spokes up.

There are guides around the internet that will help you true it up.

I manage it with just a vice to trap the spindle in and a pointer against the rim as a gauge or you could ask at you local bike/cycle shop.

 

Once you're happy with it, fit a new band/valve. 

Jitsie do a band with the valve moulded to it where the standard Beta one the valve is bolted through.

I found the best way to fit these is to lube up the rim and band well, then it just snaps into place in a U position very easily.

 

They just won't sit straight if they cannot slip and slide into place and you end up with parts of the band gripping and bunching, if the band sits humped up in the middle anywhere, it just won't seal properly.

 

 

As I wrote before, tubeless tyre removal and refitting can be pain if you don't have the right tools and knowhow.

 

First you need to break the old tyre bead off the rim.

It's possible to do this with a spade in the garden.

Lay out the wheel on the soft grass and (carefully) push the spade down the edge of the rim against the tyre to push the tyre off the bead inwards.

Once a small part pushes off, the rest follows quite easily.

 

Decent tyre levers will now get the tyre off the rim and new one back on with plenty of soap or talcum powder.

 

Without the abilty to apply a lot of air pressure very quickly like they do in a tyre shop, you'll not get the tyre to inflate and "pop" out on the rim.

(it seems I'm not allowed to name certain companies on here, but Yoo & Mee know better!) make a stretchy foam ring that you lude up and squeeze in down one side of the tyre/rim.

This pushes the tyre over the valve and seals the other side while you pump it up. It will gradually squeeze out (if you've lubed it enough) as you pump.

Some have managed the same job by fitting a racket strap around the tyre, I've never tried it myself.

 

Once on and the ring has squeezed out, keep pumping!

They require quite a lot of pressure before the bead "pops" on the rim properly, so check it's "popped" out all the way around otherwise you end up with a twist in part of the tyre.

It's not uncommon for it to take 40+ psi before is seats properly.

 

A quick spray of soapy water around the rim and spoke nipples will show how good a job you've done (or haven't)

 

 

 

 

Edited by goudrons
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