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Tiger cub clutch adjustment


Dave 58 Cub
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Hello,

I wanted to know the correct procedure for adjusting the clutch on my 1958 Tiger Cub. In a previous post on this forum, I found the following:

  • Release the cable at the handlebar lever
  • Turn the central adjuster in the pressure plate clockwise gently until I feel the clutch arm touch the outer cover.
  • Turn the central adjuster 1/2 turn anti clockwise then tighten the lock nut. This gives around 1/2mm free play.
  • Re fit the cable at the handlebar lever and adjust to suit - again a little bit of slack.
  • I then only tighten the 3 clutch springs enough for their heads to clear the inside of the primary cover, but I check that the lift is even using a dial test indicator ('engineers clock')I aim to get the variation at full lift within 0.25mm

However, per bullet #2, I cannot "feel the clutch arm touch the outer cover" because their is no inspection window on early cubs. To install a new cable, you have to remove the casing. 

For context, my initial problem was a REALLY stiff clutch, so I removed the primary side cover but found the friction plates to be good. However, the clutch springs were slightly under their min tolerance (39-42mm) so I ordered 3 new ones. I also ordered a new clutch operating rod because the end that touches the adjuster screw was worn off on one side. 

So, once I get the parts I will reinstall and need to know how to adjust properly. Oh, what is the best routing for the clutch cable? Mine comes under the tank, down to the primary chain (almost touches it?) and then under the swing arm to the clutch operating arm/casing. I'm wondering if the angle is too extreme and contributing to the stiffness of the clutch? 

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Dave. 

 

 

Edited by Dave 58 Cub
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My clutch cable runs down the front down tube turn past the bottom of the barrel turning down over the sprocket ( where the bolt hole is and clip if you require) Then down under the swinging arm  in to the case Make sure the plates lift evenly My push rod was also worn when removed but had done a lot of trials plus a pre65 ssdt

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Fit a new clutch cable while you are working on it.  An apparently 'free' cable can easily tighten up with a load applied.

Originally, I extended my standard clutch arm to make it significantly lighter.  I then fitted a proper Clutch Lightener Kit which is quite expensive, requires minor mods but gives a 1 finger operation.

I never managed to cure my plated clutch from slipping when starting at anything other than just over tdc.  After trying all the mods to the standard clutch (ally pressure plate, extra friction plate, stronger springs, setting it up with a dti, expensive oil etc.) I gave up and fitted a diaphragm clutch to my 230cc Armac Cub which is amazing.  The primary is now belt driven enabling the clutch to run dry.  It never slips.

Hope this helps,

Bruce.

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