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Drive chain type?


oldaz
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On some old trials bikes, anything but the plain standard type of chain can be too wide to fit at the front near the front sprocket.

Another thing is that O-ring chains have more parasitic drag than a lubricated non-O-ring chains, and weigh more.

Standard chains used for trials riding last many years here where it doesn't rain much so there is little reason to use anything else.

O ring chains last a lot longer (in distance ridden, not necessarily age in years) than non-oring chains especially in wet, muddy or dry sand riding.

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1 hour ago, feetupfun said:

On some old trials bikes, anything but the plain standard type of chain can be too wide to fit at the front near the front sprocket.

Another thing is that O-ring chains have more parasitic drag than a lubricated non-O-ring chains, and weigh more.

Standard chains used for trials riding last many years here where it doesn't rain much so there is little reason to use anything else.

O ring chains last a lot longer (in distance ridden, not necessarily age in years) than non-oring chains especially in wet, muddy or dry sand riding.

Words of wisdom from David which I totally agree with. Some chain manufacturers such as Regina make Trials specific chains (135EBXL) which are light and strong and due to smaller side plate dimensions etc, don't fowl in the tight confines around the counter shaft sprocket and are std fitment on a lot of new Trials bikes. They are around $100 AUS but I use them on all my bikes both new and old (twin shock) and they last very well in our Australian conditions.

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1 hour ago, stpauls said:

A drive chain is made of steel and heavy - several pounds I would guess.  Anyone make a light weight titanium drive chain? 

Doesn't titanium have some unusual frictional properties? I don't remember the details but do remember there is a friction problem when it is in contact with some other metals (ie they stick together)

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2 hours ago, stpauls said:

A drive chain is made of steel and heavy - several pounds I would guess.  Anyone make a light weight titanium drive chain? 

The problem with titanium for a drive chain is it's ability to stretch and bend a lot further than a comparative steel item. The strength wouldn't be a problem, it's only when you get into the higher grades of both metals that steel comes out on top, but the stretching wouldn't do your sprockets any good. There's a relatively new design drive chain that's noticeably lighter than the conventional chains we're used to, one brand is EK ThreeD race chain. The forged side plates are smoothed right out and have a hole in the middle, the actual height of the plates is slightly less than the same size in regular chain, but the strength is better than most due to added chromium in the alloy. The chain uses a riveted joining link as well. It looks pretty with an almost chrome type semi-polished smooth finish and the design is said to improve power at the wheel due to less chain drag.

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51 minutes ago, feetupfun said:

Doesn't titanium have some unusual frictional properties? I don't remember the details but do remember there is a friction problem when it is in contact with some other metals (ie they stick together)

I believe it would tend to attach/weld itself to aluminium sprockets under pressure, so you would need to run steel sprockets which would obviously weigh more.

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X ring chains are narrower than o ring chains.   Compared to standard chains, they require little lubrication and last forever.  RK and DID make ones that they advertise as narrow IIRC for enduro use.  The RK "narrow" chain I have is slightly narrower than the DID "narrow" I have.  It is only 0.01" different so could be manufacturing tolerances.  On my Rev3 I had to run the master-link backwards with the clip towards the tire to get adequate clearance.  I did the same on my evo but probably did not have to.  Standard o ring chains fit on my 2002 Sherco and 1997 Gas Gas.  They must be slightly heavier and consume a minuscule amount of power but power certainly isn't the limiting factor in my riding.  I certainly can not tell a difference when changing from standard to X ring.      

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Running with the "clip" on the inside always used to be standard practice on a trials bike to prevent the horseshoe catching on anything and coming undone.  It still is with me but the brake pedal pivot bolt on the Beta does tend to catch the chain, even at that.  You need to keep the bolt tight.

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Thanks for the input folks, as well as your informative answers I was also prompted to do some research online to catch up with modern chain development. Very interesting reading - seems the X ring chain may arguably be the best overall design, but the lighter weight and design combined with even better steel alloys of the new style forged 3D type looks like the best match for trials and other off-road performance bikes.

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