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potto

New purchase ,old bike and rider

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Purchased a 79 Cota 359 as a Xmas present to myself ,missed out on a TL200 recently and stole the Monty off a guy that said it didn't run and parts were a mare....really.

Had it running the same afternoon and found parts weren't an issue,motor has great compression and strong spark and runs well after not running for 15yrs .

Following questions from a newbie ,please be patient with me lol ;

bike won't start on decompressor ,is it set up wrong ?,think its opening too much?

Without starts easily but hard on my old foot,

plastic parts can they be sanded back to a better look,

Will have other silly questions later but have a history with Spanish bikes so not too far off base.

Cheers Dean.

 

 

 

 

 

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Large capacity single, short kickstart lever located high up and too far forwards. I ride a 348 and find that in the course of riding a trial, kickstarting the thing at each section on the first lap tires me out more than riding it, and mine starts perfectly. I'd hate to try and ride one that was a cantankerous starter. It's too hot here to leave it idling while you walk a section, but I am certainly tempted.

I think the decompressor is there to ease it over TDC before having a decent lunge at the lever, and to make rude noises with.

As for the mudguards, you can buy new replica mudguards easily.

I can't tell if yours has the new-fangled lopolene? plastic tank, or is a fibreglass tank, or has a fibreglass cover (shelter) over an aluminium tank. Fibreglass gelcoat can be polished.

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1 hour ago, feetupfun said:

Large capacity single, short kickstart lever located high up and too far forwards. I ride a 348 and find that in the course of riding a trial, kickstarting the thing at each section on the first lap tires me out more than riding it, and mine starts perfectly. I'd hate to try and ride one that was a cantankerous starter. It's too hot here to leave it idling while you walk a section, but I am certainly tempted.

I think the decompressor is there to ease it over TDC before having a decent lunge at the lever, and to make rude noises with.

As for the mudguards, you can buy new replica mudguards easily.

I can't tell if yours has the new-fangled lopolene? plastic tank, or is a fibreglass tank, or has a fibreglass cover (shelter) over an aluminium tank. Fibreglass gelcoat can be polished.

Thanks for the reply,agree about the de-comp,no way it will start on it because of low compression when open...simple however now I know fully.

Mudguards are in great condition just a bit discoloured just gave them a quick sand with some wet and dry and its appears to be working ,may proceed as very expensive shipping replacements from overseas.

Tank is polypropolene (spelling?) and someone has painted it with enamel paint ,since putting in fuel the paint is festering like a kid with zits,not surprised TBO...seen it before.

At the end of the day its all cosmetic,thoughts on changing the offset and increasing the length of the kick start...useful mod or not?

 

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If you mean increasing the offset so the kickstart clears the brake pedal fully, not a good idea because if the kickstart rotates much past the brake/footpeg, the kickstart mechanism stop punches a hole in the magneto case. Standard practice is to use the footpeg to stop your foot taking the kickstart lever past there, and don't mount the kickstart too far forwards either or the stop will hit the mag case even before the lever goes past the footpeg.

Unless you are very tall, lengthening the kickstart will make it even harder to kick over because your knee and hip will be at even worse angles. Try putting the wheels on something to lift the bike a bit higher and see what you think

Yes freight from the UK is horrendously expensive to here too. I usually minimise the cost as a proportion of the total by doing big orders, and making sure I buy all the big light things like mudguards at the same time. Also do joint purchasing with friends. I don't know how NZ sales tax works for imported goods, but here if the order is valued under $1000 it doesn't attract australian sales tax (GST)

There is a lot of help available on the internet about cleaning up oxidised plastics and even discoloured fuel tanks. I usually break mudguards before they get too grotty-looking, and don't like plastic tanks so have never tried doing it.

 

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46 minutes ago, feetupfun said:

If you mean increasing the offset so the kickstart clears the brake pedal fully, not a good idea because if the kickstart rotates much past the brake/footpeg, the kickstart mechanism stop punches a hole in the magneto case. Standard practice is to use the footpeg to stop your foot taking the kickstart lever past there, and don't mount the kickstart too far forwards either or the stop will hit the mag case even before the lever goes past the footpeg.

Unless you are very tall, lengthening the kickstart will make it even harder to kick over because your knee and hip will be at even worse angles. Try putting the wheels on something to lift the bike a bit higher and see what you think

Yes freight from the UK is horrendously expensive to here too. I usually minimise the cost as a proportion of the total by doing big orders, and making sure I buy all the big light things like mudguards at the same time. Also do joint purchasing with friends. I don't know how NZ sales tax works for imported goods, but here if the order is valued under $1000 it doesn't attract australian sales tax (GST)

There is a lot of help available on the internet about cleaning up oxidised plastics and even discoloured fuel tanks. I usually break mudguards before they get too grotty-looking, and don't like plastic tanks so have never tried doing it.

 

Thanks for the info on the kick start,looked at it and thought why mess with something that works..and really its starts well on it so time out on that.

Importing ..well we get hit hard here so I have to be careful been importing Porsche parts for over 20yrs ,we have to click the ticket in a big way over 400NZD,been burnt a few times than I will like to remember.

Yea ,funny haven't time on the bike to bust the guards but as I get more brave I know I will bust stuff or myself lol ,thanks again.

 

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i suggest you to check the frame (front) always broke, and keep attention to the gearbox, sometime in neutral ( when the engine run) it start .... without touch the lever

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18 hours ago, feetupfun said:

Large capacity single, short kickstart lever located high up and too far forwards. I ride a 348 and find that in the course of riding a trial, kickstarting the thing at each section on the first lap tires me out more than riding it, and mine starts perfectly. I'd hate to try and ride one that was a cantankerous starter. It's too hot here to leave it idling while you walk a section, but I am certainly tempted.

I think the decompressor is there to ease it over TDC before having a decent lunge at the lever, and to make rude noises with.

As for the mudguards, you can buy new replica mudguards easily.

I can't tell if yours has the new-fangled lopolene? plastic tank, or is a fibreglass tank, or has a fibreglass cover (shelter) over an aluminium tank. Fibreglass gelcoat can be polished.

Thanks for the reply,agree about the de-comp,no way it will start on it because of low compression when open...simple however now I know fully.

Mudguards are in great condition just a bit discoloured just gave them a quick sand with some wet and dry and its appears to be working ,may proceed as very expensive shipping replacements from overseas.

Tank is polypropolene (spelling?) and someone has painted it with enamel paint ,since putting in fuel the paint is festering like a kid with zits,not surprised TBO...seen it before.

At the end of the day its all cosmetic,thoughts on changing the offset and increasing the length of the kick start...useful mod or not?

 

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23 minutes ago, alberto said:

i suggest you to check the frame (front) always broke, and keep attention to the gearbox, sometime in neutral ( when the engine run) it start .... without touch the lever

Thanks ,yes I have checked the frame and found a crack near the steering head,also found some bad previous repairs which I will repair when I tear the bike down for repainting.

Is the frame made of anything other than mild steel ? I seem to remember chromemoly is difficult to weld ?

Gearbox appears OK but shifting is a little bulky @ times,plan to change the oil soon,is ATF ok for the clutch?.

I have a great longtime friend who restores/races older twin shock bikes ...he can wait to get his hands on my bike...lol.

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Been picking away @ some jobs today,first job was to fix the leaking fuel tap which some idiot had packed a tyre repair patch to seal it on the tank.....fuel resistant? not even close !!!!!.

On my first ride the bike stopped I found today 

Been trawling thru threads on here and it has been most helpful ,have picked up a lot of info and its been a great help...enjoying the reading.

I want to ride and enjoy this bike over the summer and then restore it over the start of winter ,just needed repairs to keep it going.

 

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On 1/2/2018 at 6:22 PM, potto said:

Been picking away @ some jobs today,first job was to fix the leaking fuel tap which some idiot had packed a tyre repair patch to seal it on the tank.....fuel resistant? not even close !!!!!.

On my first ride the bike stopped I found today 

Been trawling thru threads on here and it has been most helpful ,have picked up a lot of info and its been a great help...enjoying the reading.

I want to ride and enjoy this bike over the summer and then restore it over the start of winter ,just needed repairs to keep it going.

 

 

On 1/2/2018 at 6:22 PM, potto said:

Been picking away @ some jobs today,first job was to fix the leaking fuel tap which some idiot had packed a tyre repair patch to seal it on the tank.....fuel resistant? not even close !!!!!.

On my first ride the bike stopped I found today 

Been trawling thru threads on here and it has been most helpful ,have picked up a lot of info and its been a great help...enjoying the reading.

I want to ride and enjoy this bike over the summer and then restore it over the start of winter ,just needed repairs to keep it going.

 

Found the reason the bike stopped the other day ,besides the way some idiot had fitted the fuel tap the filter screen was fitted around the wrong way.

When resealing the fuel tap I found the bolts fitted had been too long and and one threaded inserts had all but pulled out of the plastic,I drilled out the blind hole and fitted a bolt from the inside and sealed the base 'o'ring with blue Hylamar so far so good after 2 days.

Hope to tidy up the suspension soon,have new fork seals and have ordered new Betor shocks from Spain @ a very fair price,an extended search found a huge differance from seller to seller,freight was fair considering.

More progress so will report back,cheers.

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On ‎1‎/‎14‎/‎2018 at 11:16 AM, potto said:

 

Found the reason the bike stopped the other day ,besides the way some idiot had fitted the fuel tap the filter screen was fitted around the wrong way.

When resealing the fuel tap I found the bolts fitted had been too long and and one threaded inserts had all but pulled out of the plastic,I drilled out the blind hole and fitted a bolt from the inside and sealed the base 'o'ring with blue Hylamar so far so good after 2 days.

Hope to tidy up the suspension soon,have new fork seals and have ordered new Betor shocks from Spain @ a very fair price,an extended search found a huge differance from seller to seller,freight was fair considering.

More progress so will report back,cheers.

Have been thinking more enduro than trials with my bike,I have a huge playground but nothing really as bike was intended,my plan is to increase wheelbase for handling ,gearing is 10T and 38T old brain has no idea what is...some suggestions?,I don't think this gearing is stock.

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They're good on trails as-is, 5th gear is a road gear and the steering angle, stability at moderate speed, etc, is all fine ... beyond that, you'd be trying to make it into something it's not, which never works very well - a better idea would be to get an old trail bike instead

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Be aware that your model 349 is already an inch longer than the preceeding model (348) and later model 349s. Your model 349 is usually considered a bit too long for trials, compared with other models of Montesa 348 and 349

 

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13 hours ago, turbofurball said:

They're good on trails as-is, 5th gear is a road gear and the steering angle, stability at moderate speed, etc, is all fine ... beyond that, you'd be trying to make it into something it's not, which never works very well - a better idea would be to get an old trail bike instead

Yes go's without saying,no intent to modify it extensively,everything will be reversible, I intent to make it more user friendly for my needs.

feetupfun,yes got that on the wheel base past owner had pulled it back to early 348 and later 349 when I got it so I'am back out to the original spec or a little more if the chain will lets me.

Will report back,cheers

 

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18 hours ago, potto said:

Yes go's without saying,no intent to modify it extensively,everything will be reversible, I intent to make it more user friendly for my needs.

feetupfun,yes got that on the wheel base past owner had pulled it back to early 348 and later 349 when I got it so I'am back out to the original spec or a little more if the chain will lets me.

Will report back,cheers

 

Good day yesterday,not a lot done but happy,got the carb completed as the float needle in the Amal kit didn't fit my carb,Tim @ Britishspares happily swapped it ,he's only 10mins drive away so handy.

Drained gearbox oil ,found amount was correct but oil was very dirty.....wonder if had ever been changed?,clutch had ATF in it which was clean but level low as I have a leak @ the side cover gasket or it could be somewhere else ,hope not.

Been working in the shade outside the house as it been very hot here with most days in the high 20's upwards.

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