DarphBobo Posted February 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 3 minutes ago, pschrauber said: To the location of clip of the needle (with 4 grooves): - 2nd down form the top or - 3rd up from the bottom. Great, many thanks for all your help, its very much appreciated! Bob C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarphBobo Posted February 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 4 hours ago, b40rt said: You might consider putting the fillets on the outside, to allow the side stand clearance. Not a big job and looks fine in my opinion. As pschrauber mentions, the plastic tank is much better than the metal one, the staining you see is not as much a problem in uk weather, but emptying the tank before storage should stop it happening. Fitting a metal tank requires welding two bosses near the headstock, and find suitable rubber bungs to locate the tank, also you will prebably need a seat to suit the tank, as I think they are different fixings. Bike looks very nice btw. Check the kick start is tight as you will knacker the splines, and they do come loose. When you change the gear/clutch oil do not undo the 17mm bolt, its the alan key one to drain. Hi B40RT I had thought about grinding the offending fillet down in rear of the peg, which would allow the original stand to function correctly. However l am not happy with grinding through freshly painted metal, hence why l was wondering if there were any other options 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pschrauber Posted February 11, 2018 Report Share Posted February 11, 2018 So here some photos and the measurements. I recommend that you use the side stand providet by Martin, the remake is in nice quality, the bend of the side stand is slightly softer but beside that very near by. Here the measurements, the lower drawing shows a braket that would fit to an Aluminium swing arm: The photos: 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarphBobo Posted February 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2018 6 hours ago, pschrauber said: So here some photos and the measurements. I recommend that you use the side stand providet by Martin, the remake is in nice quality, the bend of the side stand is slightly softer but beside that very near by. Here the measurements, the lower drawing shows a braket that would fit to an Aluminium swing arm: The photos: Fantastic info, many thanks for this ! Bob C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deekay Posted September 22, 2020 Report Share Posted September 22, 2020 Aloha From Texas Gang! I recently acquired a 1980 320 TL. The price was right but the bike is, well, different. Someone decided it needed to be red and black. From looking on here that is not the only thing. The forks have Schrader air valves. Is this stock? Do I pressurize them and if so, how much pressure. The shocks were complete junk so I replaced them with Rock Shocks. The bike started right up, runs well even with a modern MX aluminum final silencer. I pulled off the side cover and it still has the original points in there. I see there is an electronic ignition that is available and that certainly looks great. Have you fellows made that change? My biggest problem now is the clutch which is really stiff. I know it needs a new cable but I also read that there may be another side case that helps? Finally, I am rebuilding this bike for a high altitude event in Colorado. The event goes up to 12,958 feet. I saw it mentioned to change jets but in Kehin carbs we go down for main jet to get leaner. My Beta goes from 125 to 115. I was thinking that the 90 should go to 75 or so. Is that possible? Thanks, David Klein Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pschrauber Posted September 22, 2020 Report Share Posted September 22, 2020 (edited) Schrader valves are not stock, may be you have a different set of fork caps mounted, maybe a different fork? A photo of the air valves and the fork assembly as a hole would be nice to determine what is mounted to the bike. With these high altitude I recommend a SmartCarb I have ridden the SWM in altitude from Zero up to 3200m (appr. 10,700 feet) above sea level and the stanard jetting is "only" good for the first 1500m, above that the engine runs rich above 2000m very rich and you have to change jets or a blue smoke cloud will follow together with very lame responsibility. The Dell'Orto PHBH if jetted right and using the right needle and slide! works perfect with rotary valve engine but only in limited hights, i don't think an OKO VM or Keihin would work better beside flat slide versions, here a Dell'Orto VHST is in 26mm also available and you can use the same jets! There is a clutch fix with bigger balls 13mm instead of 7mm and a longer internal clutch lever, I think Dagaracing in Italy is still selling them. Edited September 22, 2020 by pschrauber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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