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sprocket bolts


bondy
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hello as any 1 had problems with the rear sprocket bolts? i just got a new s3 sprocket and the bolts stick out to much there is a shallow recess not counter sunk any ideas what bolts i can use? i do have domed bolts but not sure if they will catch the S/Arm 

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Just dealt with this.  No countersunk sprockets in 40t.  Only counterbored.  Considered swapping from flush head / countersunk style to the counterbored shallow dome stle heads.

The Scorpa swingarm to bolthead clearance was pretty tight, and the countebored sprocket and that style bolt was marginal if any clearance.

Ultimately, I countersunk the counterbored sprocket and used the original flush head bolts.

Catch a look at the recent topic where I installed the Jitsie snails and 40t rear sprocket.

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i was thinking about using a counter sunk drill bit and doing the same as you using the original counter sunk bolts but i don't want to weaken the holes i have found some  domed bolts that are shallow and high tensil i know there's not much space between the sprocket and S/Arm i will test the bolts before making a decision.

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To properly countersink the holes, you must use a countersink in the drill press or milling machine.  The countersink angle must match or the sprocket will work as you accellerate or decellerate, ultimatley ruining the hub.

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The countersink cutters angle must match the bolt heads angle, otherwise there will be only a small ring of surface contact between the bolts head and countersunk hole in the sprocket.

You mentioned using a drill to accomplish countersinking the sprocket.  Most drill bits are an angle of 118 degres and some being 135 degrees, but other odd angles may exist.

Countersinks come in various angles also, typically 60, 82, 90, 100, 120 degree cutting angles.  Pretty certain the proper cutter angle was 90 degrees, but did not run to the toolbox and check.

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