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Beta EVO3004T "she had the same idea"


CrisFan666
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Hi guys: :D... Today while I was returning from a ride in the woods I stopped to do ..... .... "a prostatic discharge" .... Unfortunately when I went to resume the bike I noticed that .... SHE HAD THE SAME IDEA .... just put in motion lost water from the gasket HEAD-CYLINDER right side ...... exactly under the pump impeller casing . Lose only with the engine running and only at the minimum .... if I give gas stops losing .... I think it is excessive wear of the oil / water seal + pump impeller shaft. The leakage of water comes out with a good probability from the spy hole that allows precisely the water no longer held by the seal to escape and do not go to contaminate the oil. Well ....: fl ^ -g .... ..... since I have largely spent the 360 hours on this bike I think that how to say "there may be" .... Question: You think you can replace - impeller shaft - water / oil seals just disassembling the impeller cover ??? I have a doubt about something in particular or .... when I turn the spindle shaft .... there is no risk that the gear falls down into the carter .....: bho: bho ???

Sorry for my bad english:wacko:

Greetings to all the Forum & Buon Trial !!!

rps20180408_090039_356.jpg

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On 12/11/2017 at 6:36 PM, lotus54 said:

I found one thread on this- but it wasn’t really clear to me. I have not had any experince with these engines yet.

I believe I am due for a water pump seal replacement. Perhaps the shaft should be replaced at the same time. I could not discern if the water pump shaft can be removed without the gear driving it being disturbed. It appears that the engine needs to be at least pivoted down to remove the cam cover, and probably that would be the safer way (?) but who has done it ‘in sutu’ and just removed/replaced the shaft and seals?

thanks for any help.
Mark

Hi ..... I would be interested to know if really when removing the impeller shaft pump ..... keeping the motor mounted on the vertical motion ..... drive gear falls down inside .....

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Your English is very good Mark! ...and certainly about 100% better thank my Italian! I can't offer any help with your pump seal problem - it may be possible to pick out the seal and replace without disturbing the shaft but you should wait until someone who knows can advise properly. I can suggest that you may mean "bladder discharge" rather than "prostatic" - unless you were really enjoying your ride!!

Regards, Mark

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12 hours ago, markparrish said:

I can suggest that you may mean "bladder discharge" rather than "prostatic" - unless you were really enjoying your ride!!

????????

ops you're right .....
I was having fun in motorcycles certainly .....
but not up to that point !!!!

?????????

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yes, there are actually 300 hours of hour meter + at least 50/60 hours before I put it on the bike.

But do not be impressed ... because there is a trick !!!??

Not all trial hours - off-road.
The truth is that I like the trial bike so much ..... that even if I have a car and a road bike ..... I use the BETA EVO 300 4T ... every day to go to work while staying in feet on the footboards .....
Every morning I go to work at home, then I come home for lunch and then I go back to work and back home in the evening.
So I'm on the bike 15 minutes x 4 times a day, in short, they are 1 hour a day x 5 days a week ..... then 20 hours a week and for 11 months (even with the coldest extreme do not give up ... .mi stop only for snow and heavy rain .....) make 220 hours.
Here are the remaining until you get to the total are TRIAL ..... at least almost all .... because there are also included mountain tours ......

???????

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ops .... sorry retromic ...

I realized now that I did not answer your question:

My Beta did all these hours / km in an exact 1 year time period.

I've never had to replace any piece until now.
Cylinder and piston have never been touched and are still ok .... the engine runs really well !!
I changed only a rear tire .... and honestly now the one that mounts is already 60% wear !!!
I also have to change chain sprocket and brake pads ..... we can say that this is the minimum with this use .... !!!

Of course I have always taken care of the oil-air-oil change.
Still original candle. ..... I will change this too.rps20180409_093558_434.jpg.e93b7a5128b9ce0ca090c12c4c40e0da.jpg

rps20180409_093722_546.jpg

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When I had a small amount come out of the ‘drip hole’ I looked into replacing the water pump.  (The drip has not happened again, so I have not replaced it yet).

the manual says to replace it at some 60 hours, but I assume that is under extreme competition use and I doubt any ‘normal’ user does maintainence at those recommended intervals.

I believe the best way is to remove the radiator and side supports, remove skid plate and all but the rear engine mount, remove exhaust. Loosen carb jubilee clamp and tilt the engine down.  Then you can remove the top head cover and have access to the gear that drive the water pump.  Do you have the service manual?

mark

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5 hours ago, lotus54 said:

Quando ho fatto uscire una piccola quantità dal "foro di gocciolamento" ho cercato di sostituire la pompa dell'acqua. (La flebo non è ancora successo, quindi non l'ho ancora sostituito).

il manuale dice di sostituirlo a circa 60 ore, ma presumo che sia sottoposto a un uso estremo della competizione e dubito che un utente "normale" mantenga la manutenzione agli intervalli raccomandati.

Credo che il modo migliore sia rimuovere il radiatore e i supporti laterali, rimuovere la piastra paramotore e tutto tranne il supporto motore posteriore, rimuovere lo scarico. Allentare il morsetto del giubileo del carburatore e inclinare il motore verso il basso. Quindi è possibile rimuovere il coperchio superiore della testata e accedere agli ingranaggi che azionano la pompa dell'acqua. Avete il manuale di servizio?

marchio

I like your strategy ....... soon ...
next weekend .... I will try to fix the little ?

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I was able to replace the water pump shaft and seals on my 2009 4t just by carefully unscrewing the shaft (24) from the gear (22). The gear will not fall into the engine. I used an adjustable "Crescent" wrench to grip the flat on the shaft, much better than the weak special Beta tool. Take care removing the seals, you do not want to damage the aluminium bores. Grease the seals and shaft before installing the new shaft. I used a set of long, narrow, needle nose pliers to hold the gear up enough to engage the threads of the gear and shaft.

Of course, the engine will have to be dropped down-,remove exhaust pipe,separate carburettor from air cleaner, let the engine  hang only on the swing arm bolt. Lock the crankshaft at TDC on compression stroke with the locking bolt, first remove it's copper crush washer. Remove the valve cover.  Loosen the water pump shaft from it's gear, do not remove the shaft yet. Remove the cam chain adjuster. Remove the cam sprocket from the cam, then remove it from the chain. Tie a string or wire to the chain and lower it into the engine, the chain will stay on the crankshaft's sprocket. Slide the ball bearing (14) from the camshaft, then remove the camshaft. You can now unscrew the water pump shaft by stopping the gear from rotating with a straight bladed screw driver. Since I'm writing this from memory it would be best to consult the 4t Shop Manual that's available online. Take your time, I would allow about 6 hours to clean the bike and complete the work for the first time. Good luck.

Cheers, Greg. 

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7 hours ago, arbutus said:

I was able to replace the water pump shaft and seals on my 2009 4t just by carefully unscrewing the shaft (24) from the gear (22). The gear will not fall into the engine. I used an adjustable "Crescent" wrench to grip the flat on the shaft, much better than the weak special Beta tool. Take care removing the seals, you do not want to damage the aluminium bores. Grease the seals and shaft before installing the new shaft. I used a set of long, narrow, needle nose pliers to hold the gear up enough to engage the threads of the gear and shaft.

Of course, the engine will have to be dropped down-,remove exhaust pipe,separate carburettor from air cleaner, let the engine  hang only on the swing arm bolt. Lock the crankshaft at TDC on compression stroke with the locking bolt, first remove it's copper crush washer. Remove the valve cover.  Loosen the water pump shaft from it's gear, do not remove the shaft yet. Remove the cam chain adjuster. Remove the cam sprocket from the cam, then remove it from the chain. Tie a string or wire to the chain and lower it into the engine, the chain will stay on the crankshaft's sprocket. Slide the ball bearing (14) from the camshaft, then remove the camshaft. You can now unscrew the water pump shaft by stopping the gear from rotating with a straight bladed screw driver. Since I'm writing this from memory it would be best to consult the 4t Shop Manual that's available online. Take your time, I would allow about 6 hours to clean the bike and complete the work for the first time. Good luck.

Cheers, Greg. 

whouwww?? ..... !!!

  . ....Greg.....
Congratulations and thanks for the reply ...... really complete and professional ?? !!!

But I must admit that reading you also scares me .... ?? ..... because it is not as simple as I thought. ....
ok ... just a few words ....
.... I decided that this weekend I'm tired .... ??
and I do not feel like trying ???

But next week .... you will dance and I will do the job as You explained to me ?? !!!!

If I succeed I will post the video of my "Clarabella" ....
again roaring .....

Otherwise. ... will mean that I made a mess ....
????✌✌

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