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Sherco 290 front sprocket

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Hi, 

I recently bought a 290 2006, giving it a once over and noticed the front sprocket is pretty loose on the drive shaft.I can wobbled it back and forth, left and right, and there is a small gap between the sprocket and circlips.

Sprocket appears to be the right one looking at info on net. Shaft isn' warn or does appear to be

Is this normal??

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You could try Birkett TrialsUK. Their site has workshop manuals and spares lists. Possibly give them a ring for guidance on the gearbox sprocket. Some manufacturers left a small amount of side play to allow for alignment when cracked in mud etc. Not had experience with this make but you’ll get the definitive answer from someone on here who has🙂

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Can't say I've ever noticed much play on my 290, maybe pull the outside circlip & slide the sprocket out so it is over the part of the shaft that doesn't have the sprocket on it normally & see if the play is still there. I suspect there is something wrong with the sprocket rather than the shaft

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I just ran into this while replacing the stator on my uncles 2003 290. His sprocket was so worn that I’m shocked it never piled into the crank case. We have a new sprocket on order and I’m hoping there’s no wear to the drive shaft splines. I would also think that the sprocket would wear before the harnened shaft, but won’t have an answer until I get the new sprockets! I will post an update once they come in, hopefully by this weekend.

Here’s a pic of what his severely worn front sprocket. 😲!!

C3F9CAC8-0936-42EB-85AE-4CB73EFA896E.jpeg

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Thanks for the replys guys, So had another look last night shaft is slightly warn, sprocket looks fine but ordered another one, as it might be warn too but I can't see it, it's gotta help!

Guessing I'll just have to keep an eye on it and replace if/when it needs a rebuild.

 

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You want to look at Hondas with the sprocket held on by two bolts and a small plate.  Loads of movement in every plane though it doesn't seem to be harmful (but sloppy engineering to my mind, apart from the float to allow sprocket to self-centre on chainline).

Edited by 2stroke4stroke

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I just fitted the new Talon front sprocket to my uncles 290, and it still has some wobble/play to it. It sounds like that's just the norm from the replies above, the shaft isn't warn on this one.

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Here’s a shot of it with the new chain and sprockets. I wrapped the front fender with some 3m carbon fibre I had laying around because the original had some serious bend-marks/creases. The heat gun is key. Timed the new stator with a timing light and she fired up on the first kick :) She’s like a new bike again (it actually looks nicer than my 2015 lol)

 

The drive sprocket still has some wobble play to it, but it’s hardly noticeable once the chain is installed and tensioned.

 

The next big plan for this bike is an engine rebuild due to play in the main bearings/connecting rod. (Followed by new tires)

1ACD2144-B04B-4423-A8F1-64FD25409F76.jpeg

EF3C5913-D02F-4F44-B8E9-080B5F5C733D.jpeg

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I see it's a Jarvis replica like mine, these were the last that they made.

The tank & guard graphics aren't available anymore so I'd suggest getting rid of the rear bolts & running cable ties to allow the guard to unclip in the case of a step off. It was 1 of the first things I did when I got mine new & it has definitely saved me quite a bit of money 

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Fantastic idea, I will heed this advice! :)

 

I had a hard time getting the tank back on (over the wire harness and CDI stuff), so I heated the bottom of the tank with a heat gun and it now fits without stressing any components underneath 👍

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Thanks for the reply, finally got round to putting new front sprocket on today and it was a better fit, still abit of play on it though. I think it would be tight if the shaft wasnt warn. Ive ditched the rear fender bolts and gone with tiestraps like tony suggested. 😁

What gearing do you guys run? The bike came with 11 front 42 rear, but the more I ride it I think its too tall for slow cornering (even in first) and the front 11t with 520 chain is almost touching the clutch slave cylinder.

Ive read all the threads on here and cant really decide, currently in thinking buy another front but a 10t this time, so I'll be running stock gearing and that should give it some clearance, but read a 44t rear would be good. (Just hoping it wouldnt become too snappy)

In a quandry  if just go cheap and buy the front get some more riding in or cough up for full set including chain.

 

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From memory 10 on the front is standard & works well for me & is standard, I surprise people when they see what can be gotten up in first gear but still you second & third in sections often enough to know that it isn't overgeared

Front changes the gearing more than the back does & saves buying a longer chain although depending on how new your's is you may need a half link for it to fit, Sherco around that era definitely had a half link fitted from new

The 290s of that era aren't overly snappy, dropping to a 10 tooth will only put it back to how it was new

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On ‎17‎/‎04‎/‎2018 at 2:19 AM, jackman290 said:

Here’s a shot of it with the new chain and sprockets. I wrapped the front fender with some 3m carbon fibre I had laying around because the original had some serious bend-marks/creases. The heat gun is key. Timed the new stator with a timing light and she fired up on the first kick :) She’s like a new bike again (it actually looks nicer than my 2015 lol)

 

The drive sprocket still has some wobble play to it, but it’s hardly noticeable once the chain is installed and tensioned.

 

The next big plan for this bike is an engine rebuild due to play in the main bearings/connecting rod. (Followed by new tires)

1ACD2144-B04B-4423-A8F1-64FD25409F76.jpeg

EF3C5913-D02F-4F44-B8E9-080B5F5C733D.jpeg

Hi Jackman, I'll pass on a few little tips that will make your bike easier to look after etc

Try & find 1 of the later short gear levers, when I bought mine it was referred to as the race lever but I think they became standard a few years later. The shorter lever makes taking the ignition cover off easier & is tucked in tighter to the motor. I also took the ignition cover with built in sprocket guard off & replaced it with a 06 or 07 cover without the guard, unfortunately the covers with the guard warp at the back so you need to keep removing them & using silicon sealer to help keep water & mud out of the magneto

They are a very simple motor to rebuild, worst part is actually getting it out of the frame. Don't remove the head from the cylinder, you need to replace the o-rings if you do that & it;s not something that needs to happen

The links pinned at the top of the Sherco page should have the downloadable manuals from Ryan Young Products site in the US, these are pretty good at explaining what to do including step by step photos so most people should be able to do a main bearing replacement in a day. When you replace your mains get the newer sealed type bearing & viton crank seals which do last longer, the viton seals are needed for modern gas with alcohol in it. I had the original tank grow enough that the rear guard didn't clip under the frame any more & it was a tight squeeze between the frame rails, I put that down to the ethanol in our fuel which guys have mentioned as a problem worldwide, I only run avgas in the new tank & haven't had problems since, as a bonus the fuel doesn't need to be used up in a month 

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