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Some say to go with a reasonabley priced branded chain and work on the fact that it will need changing a few times, depending on how often the chain gets used. If you have two decent chains put one that is cleaned and dried into an oil bath...this could be a biscuit tin with lid or similar and leave it to soak. What oil you use is down to personal choice, but EP80 or 90 may be deemed by some as too thick. Grease tends to penetrate when heated like the Linklife grease tins for chain but it’s messy and the grease acts like a magnet for grit and detritus. Engine oil could be a choice and it doesn’t need to be expensive oil either. The other chain will be on the bike, again personal choice with what lube you put on it. Spray lube goes sticky and is not really what you want for Trials or M/X or enduro, a light engine oil works but does fling off, gear oil applied with a paint brush is another option but whatever. Now when you bring the bike back after use all yo do is slip the chain off and clean it or place it in a tin of diesel and oil mix to soak overnight, lid preferable. Cleaning the bike, if you do every time or not, will be easier without the chain on. When you’ve done what cleaning and other maintenance is your normal routine you can get the other chain thats all clean and oiled. Lift it out of the oil and wipe excess oil off, alternatively the chain could just be hung over the oil tin to drip excess oil into it. I expect that you can now understand that in real terms you have extended the life of both chains, with the exception of chain link spring clips. Non O ring chains work best in terms of being narrower so no tyre chain interface or other clearance issues, standard chain is slightly lighter, doesn’t create extra frictional losses due to dry O rings....granted these will be tiny but do add up. You could even keep that other chain as a stand by in case of breakage, or just swap over chains if competing in longer events where time allows. I don’t recommend putting O ring chains into diesel. Most brand new chains when you get them are smeared with grease usually whiteish in colour, a good plan would be to wipe most of this off especially if you know you are going to ride in dusty going. A little pocket sized aerosol of WD40 or GT 85 or any other maintenance spray will be perfect to spray onto the chain during use to help wash off some of the dirt and lube the chain at the same time. Dry lube does not do the same job. Don’t forget to spray the tensioner pivot and slide as well?

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a proper trials chain has 1.5mm link plates. all other chains have 2mm link plates to be heavy duty enough for mx use . the exra thickness is why they don't work well with the tensioner, its desgned for the narrow chain. also the light chain contributes to the response needed for certain trials maneuvers. u will feel the difference between lightweight and heavv duty chain. 

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DID 520 ERT2 is what I use has tensile strength of  3680 kg which is good, very good but a bit heavier are DID 520 MX with 4060 kg.
Standard Regina Gold has around 2000kg the best Regina Gold RX3 has 3400 kg of tensile strength, as stronger they are as less wear you have.

 

 

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10 hours ago, turbofurball said:

Thanks ... once my bank account has recovered from buying a new tank for the TY I'll start playing with my chain and gear ratios :)

Regina  chain has proper rivets, so you can add bits in without using multiple split links. In motion sell suitable 1/2 links.

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