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Honda Tl200 Build


gbmoto
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I like that....

I wish I had the time and patience to see my stuff through to the end. Most of the time, by the time the frame is sandblasted and the engine rebuilt, I have a date for the next trial that I MUST ride, And of course. it has to be on the bike I am presently working on . (I have 4 or 5 good runners but no, it HAS to be that one. This means that the exhaust might get cleaned with caustic if I

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  • 4 weeks later...
 

Hi

I cannot find the contact details for the guy I bought the carb from, but if you do a search on ebay.com (the US one) for SL125 carb you may be lucky. The quality was good and it looked identical to the original exept for the name on the side (not dificult to remove) It fitted straight on so should be fine with your TL200.

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Was it hard to kick start or did you still have the compression release installed?

Just rebuit a 200 engine and tried starting it without fitting the decompressor cable - plenty compression but NOT a hard bike to kick over.

If I decide to keep the 200 the valve lifter might become a manual affair but I doubt very much whether I will bother with the auto system - I removed it off my two 250's (it was the first thing i did to them) and fitted a manual system - great for starting the bike rolling down hill.

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  • 1 month later...

This is a reply to a PM from RMXBOY, my isp says he doesn't exist!!, but may be of interst to others anyway.

Hi Jeff

Thanks for the compliment.

Unfortunately the TL gears will meet the crank but if the XR gears are close

to the XLS ones I used they should be OK for trials as long as the final

gear is low, I think mine was 60 at the back and whatever the smallest that

fitted at the front.

I shortened the cam ( about 10 cm's I think ) but the location tab for the

advance retard is in a different place. With carefull comparison I filed

another groove in the advance retard mechanism to put it where it should be.

You will need the TL primary cover as the brake lever will cause problems,

but I had to build up a little with plastic metal on the bottom left,

obvious when you look.

You also need to grind a little frame away at the back and enlarge the bolt

holes.

The key is to have plenty of bits to play around with, recon you are OK

there!, the XR was not available much over here so parts were not so common.

Finally spray it silver so it looks standard and amaze your mates.

All the best

Graeme

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Could not help but read your post, lots of good work!

I think it just goes to show that a small Honda bottom end with a 200 top would work well, especially with a hydro clutch, modern mono frame and disk brakes, Kondy on steroids!

When will some enterprising young Korean build one for sale at an entry level price?

<_<

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Graeme,

Since the email I have stripped down my dump motor ( found a complete TL125s at the local tip.) These are quite different to the TL 125 that I have currently. S model has the split head and new style cam, still uses points. The right hand side of the crank has a finer spline than the older model. The gear clusters are different. The center gasket is close to an XL 125s gasket, but the clutch cover is the same as the old model. The kickstart assembly is different to the old model aswell. The s model clutch has five plates rather than the four plate plus spacer. The S model has two coils in the mag cover. I will run the old single coil cover.

Am looking to get the dump motor running first, then will see how gutless it is before deciding what to try next. My old motor spun the flywheel at the last trial, is this common?. The crankshaft key is pretty knackered.

Jeff.

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The extra coil is probably the lighting coil. Most TL's didn't come with lights so most don't have the extra coil.

Clean up your flywheel as good as you can. Use some lapping compound to seat the flywheel and the crank. This will take off any high spots. The key should only line up the flywheel and the crank anyhow. Make sure to get the bolt tight for the flywheel.

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  • 4 years later...
 

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