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cafe55

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  1. Thank you Gentlemen! Check- on not using Loctite or grease on the treads and tapers. I'll go ahead and torque to 50ft./lbs dry. Also, thanks on the link for torque specs - should come in handy. Isaac,
  2. I suspected some loose wiring under the flywheel and found the problem. However, putting the flywheel back on I'm not completely sure what the torque specs should be. Can someone out there lend a hand with some ft/lbs? Also, would anyone recommend loc-tite on the treads of the nut - maybe medium strength? Would hate the flywheel to spin off. Thanks allot in advance. Isaac
  3. Thanks, tlrmark. I thought that's what the button was for but wasn’t 100% confident. I suppose you open the clutch reservoir and pump any air in the line away. Thanks, also for the fork oil info. Isaac,
  4. Lineaway and Lee, Thanks for the reply. OK, I'll use 80:1 for the fuel mix. This seems consistent since I'll be using a synthetic 2-stroke oil that's known have more lubricating qualities. From the best I could tell the previous owner (PO) was using ATF in the gear box. I've rebuild a couple of Mustang manual transmissions and the required fluid was ATF. Of course, I could be comparing apples to oranges here. I'm also aware REDline makes a racing 120W gear oil that is colored red so at this point it’s really hard to tell. I have both propylene and ethylene glycol and both are florescent green as well as what the PO was using in the bike. I might try taking the coolant that's in the bike to a Lab for analysis but not sure if this can be determined easily? I'll call around. I found out last night the manufacturer (Marzocchi) of the front shocks has a facility here in SoCal so I'll see if I can get a pair of seals and get a fluid recommendation at the same time. One last question. This may require familiarity with the Section. There is a small rubber button 1/4 inch in diam. just in front of the counter sprocket and about 2 inches above the kick start shaft on the outside of the right case. Could this be a bleed pump for the clutch or brake? The very very small lettering says "Brembo". Modern trials bikes, as I'm finding, are a whole other beast compared to the old Honda's I'm used to wrenching on. Thanks, Isaac
  5. Forgot the most important: Fuel ratio - 50:1, 70:1, 80:1 or 100??? Thanks,
  6. Just recently solved a no-spark condition (thanks’ Grib) on my 95 Section I'd been chasing for months. As I had just gotten the bike when the coil failed, I'm now ready to pick up where I left off and focus on the rest of the bike, including changing the fluids and minor touch-ups. Anyone recommend a specific coolant to use? - volume? I understand the engine is magnesium and may require a propylene glycol mix rather than the slightly more corrosive ethylene glycol? Or is this just splitting hairs? Any specific type/grade of ATF for the transmission? I assume the hydraulic brake and clutch take the same fluids - DOT 4?, at least for the brakes. I've used synthetic DOT 5 in my TR6 because it won't absorb moisture and eat the paint but it’s pretty $pendy. Lastly, type of fork fluids and volume? The seals are leaking so a fork re-build is in the immediate future. Like I mentioned to Grib I wish these bikes would have had manuals with all the specs. Thanks, Isaac
  7. Grib, I'm STOKED! Received the new Ducati coil yesterday and installed it. Got a big'o blue spark right off the bat. What a relief.......... Want to thank you for time you took to help find the problem with this bike. If I ever make to the Isle of Man or you get to California all the beer is on me . Lessons learned: 1.) Never ever trust used electrical components unless you can compare to a known functioning component. 2.) Verify all other components in the system are to spec and/or functioning. 3.) Most of all don't give up. Some one's bound to have the answer or has gone through a similar experience and can help - especially here on this forum........ Now to get this bike in shape for riding with some cleaning and minor cosmetic repairs. I'll be starting a new thread on fluid recommendations next. Many thanks again. Isaac
  8. Grib, Hooked everything back together again - new HT wire (tested with and without spark boot), new spark plug and boot. Still no spark--arggg! I just put in an order for a new Ducati CDI/coil today. Got my fingers crossed this time and hoping it was just two bad coils. I'll let you know the outcome as soon as I install it. Thanks, Isaac
  9. Grib, OK. I'll start from the beginning and re-check the wiring including the HT cable w/out the plug. If I don't get spark or say a weak one, I've heard that bump starting generates a stronger spark than normal kick starting. Just wondering if this is true and if it might make a difference. Thing is, I'd hate to have and bump start this thing all the time just to be able to ride it........ Isaac,
  10. Grib, Finally got back to the bike. Tests for resistance between the male spade connectors on the Coil/CDI are as follows: Coil # 1, White to Green = 87,600 ohms White to Red = 365 ohms Coil # 2, White to Green = 87,800 ohms White to Red = 367 ohms At this point I don't believe the coils are bad with values so close, as you also mentioned. Unless, of course their both bad! I'm thinking of ordering a new pickup since it seems everything else has checked out. Problem is finding it. Wanted to say thanks again for your input and advice. I'll keep digging........ Isaac,
  11. Grib, I've been performing two separate resistance tests - resistance on the CDI/coil between spade connectors and a separate test between the leads of the stator. So what you are saying is the resistance values at the CDI/coil spade terminals where the leads from the stator would normally attach - green spade to white spade and red spade to white spade between them should have the same resistance values as between the leads attached to the stator - green lead to white lead and red lead to white lead? I found this article on testing Ducati ignition on the web however; the values and wire colures don't really seem fit the fantic/ducati system. I tested the values for the CDI/coil (what they call the black box) against theirs but didn’t have any conclusive readings. This may be a system for aircraft. http://www.800-airwolf.com/pdffiles/ARTICLES/part%2058.pdf The brown/white striped wire with the ring terminal coming out of the CDI/coil was connected to what appeared to be a ground/earth junction at the regulator as I found it. Mostly, I was curious what its function was. Not sure where to go from here. Should I pursue the possibility that the pickup coil has failed?
  12. Grib, OK. Finally got time to reassemble everything with a new spark plug, spark plug cap and wire. All this was assuming the resistances in the electric components were checking out including continuity on the stator lead wires and that by some miracle of God I would get spark back. Well it looks like there were no miracles tonight. Kicked and kicked until I was sweating bullets - still no spark. Here are my conclusions after some more head scratching and additional internet research: 1). The CDI/Coil? Still suspect (including the second unit I purchased - though, the values were the same - assuming I was checking correctly) since I have not encountered consistent values to test resistance at the connecting spades between white, red, and green terminals (BTW, there is a brown/white wire that I have not identified in all the research coming out of the CDI/coil with a ring terminal that connects to the regulator -anybody know what it's for - ground/earth?) 2.) The pickup coil (pickup)? - small blk box 3/4x1/2 inch sitting @ about 6 o'clock on the stator plate w/ the red wire lead. The resistance was 107.2. The closest spec I could find - Ducati but non-fantic was 30-40 ohms. Is this good, bad or does it even matter? 3.) Bad green wire between the low-tension/charging coil, sits @ about 5 o'clock, guessing not one of the lighting coils because its wrapped with white fabric tape? Though I had continuity on its lead wire, is it possible the correct flow of current is still being impeded through the wire? All this is becoming nerving........ BTW- Thanks for the wire diagram. It was allot better than the one I found on line since it had some ohm values. Isaac,
  13. Shy- Thanks for the post. Been gone a couple days so havent been able to work on the bike and reply. I'll be getting my hands back on it tonight. Just for grins I'm going to take the stator completley out and have a look behind just to see if all is well. I'll also try another meter and see what kind of readings I get. I'll also check out classictrials and Bob Wrights site and see if I can gleen anything. As soon as I find the problem with this bike I'll be sure and post to let everyone know. Grib- I'll go ahead and stay away from the rest of the other elec. components. I'm glad you mentioned this so I can rule these out. As a side note I was able to find a wiring diagram off of the web. The source said it was from a 96 Fantic but noticed some of the wire color coding is different and as well as having lights and turn signals on the diagram? As I mentioned to Shy I'm gonna take a closer look at the stator though the resistance seemed good. I've allready tried a new plug but dident try a new HT wire. I'll give that a shot. At this point it must be something simple that I have been over looking! Isaac,
  14. Grib, I was able to remove the flywheel with an auto steering wheel puller. Worked fine but it took some of force -looks as if it had never been off since the factory. All the wiring looked fine - no burned or chaffed leads to speak of and all looked very clean. The stator plate appeared as it had not shifted and was dead on the index mark. I then checked resistance on the leads with the green/white @ 484 and red/white @ 102. The red/white seemed to be out of spec just by a hair of the 110+/- 5 but I'm thinking this might be slight variability in the meter. At this point it seems the stator is OK unless the discrepancy in the red/white spec is enough to cause a problem? I'm thinking of back tracking and focusing on the rectifier. I have a few full-wave four post bridge rectifiers and not sure if they would have the same application spec and exactly how to wire them - guess I could just trial and error it and see what happens. There is also, what appears to be the regulator, though I'm not positive. It's about 1.5 x 3 inches with cooling fins and sits across from the rectifier on the frame. I'm not sure how this works in conjunction with the rectifier? Any other comments/ideas? Thanks,
  15. Grib, Thank you for the reply. I'll go ahead and remove the fly wheel and see if anything looks abnormal. If everything looks good on the outside, I'll check the resistance as you noted. If it turns out to be the stator, curious if you've ever had one rewound? I suppose trying to locate a replacement stator for these bikes is like trying to find hens teeth. I do have a lead from my local Ducati mechanic on an outfit in Los Angeles that rewinds coils. Hopefully, I won't need them and it will be something obvious like a loose or worn wire. I'll keep digging............ Thanks, again. Isaac,
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