dev1975

hi had this with a husqvarna mx bike, plates looked fine but over time they get like sponges and just stick that bit too much even with clutch pulled in, replaced plates and problem solved

well carb parts came today so will fit them and also check the reeds are snapping shut, iridium plug should be here shortly and yes i have a set of pullers so will probably do the seal as well, then maybe i will be able to have a proper go on it, went out briefly other day and within 500yds or so as i got onto fields the front brake locked on just as i accelarated off in 2nd causing me to be dragged down the tarmac part of the footpath and ended up landing in a pile of dog **** and facing 180 degrees other way and a raw elbow and buttock, last owner had drilled out 2 of the 4 piston cups and not washed calipers out as i found fragments of aluminium in caliper, i can only assume this debris stopped the fluid from returning and locked front end up!!!

to John the cap is on correctly with the tab and cutout aligned its as if the plastic has warped, assuming the fuel adjuster is actually an airscrew which im pretty sure it is what would the turns out be from closed

right thanks, the air screw that may be a fuel screw? does this still look like an airscrew setup once removed i.e, screw, spring, washer, and rubber seal? as never come across a fuel screw before just assumed it to be mixture as it has the same make up of components, just being sure thanks

hi thanks for all that my throttle was a little tight before and someone had overstretched the return spring so getting it back in was a little tricky but another is on its way, black carb top doesnt seem to seat fully on carb so again i ordered one as well, after i rebuild carb will see if it still happens, as a rule what is a good starting point for pilot airscrew turns out on these?, was getting petrol seeping from this screw so again ordfered all seals i will need plus new screw washer and spring, carb inlet manifold screws seem to be very tight and slightly sunk into intakemanifold , will dis assemble all this at time of carb work, can the l/h crank seal be done by removing mag and stator then driving a screw into seal then pulling it out with pliers?/ this is how i did my last one one another bike and im assuming it will be just as simple, just to clarify the plug has no brown buildup its just that colour mixture wise, really fancy one of those ultrasonioc cleaning baths for carbs etc they look to be well worth hundred quid anyway, thanks for all your constructive comments ive been on forums before for various vehicles and they seem to be a haven for arseholes that just want to take the Pi$@ but not here thanks

firstly this is my 1st tials bike its a 280 TXT 02 Edition,(pre pro) main issue is revs not dropping off fully after bike has been started and choke shut down, still seems quite high even after fully warmed up you blip it and it does not drop off like i would like only way to solve it is to wind tick over screw out tilll it drops but if left there it dies, other than that motor is sweet as a nut with no untoward noises, to try and combat it i did the following cleaned carb out which was slightly dirty, airscrew is 1 1/2 out, fuel is approx 60:1, plug is bcpr5es, not sure what the c stands for as std seems to be bpr5es, i have ordered a seal kit for the dellorto carb along with new mixture screw and choke spring, had the same sort of issue with a dtr125 which turned out to be l/h crank oil seal??, plug is not overly white though, sort of light brown around porcelin shroud and onto electrode with only the very flat tip part of electrode being a dusty white, any pointers would be appreciated as ive already found this site very usefull when i couldnt bleed front brake up, sorted it though due to thread off here so im expecting some sound advice, although its my 1st trials i have quite a few bikes and like to rectify things myself but we all need a hand now and again thanks in advance, ps are the iridium plugs worth the extra money??