dusty_viper

The plot thickens. I can't see no corrosion on the seal groove but it definitely looks like the seal isn't sitting in properly. I did run a knife round it to try and clear any corrosion which might be there but it looks all clean. I did try one of the other seals in the same part and this was also causing issues even though this was fine in another port so it's definitely something on the caliper. I'm waiting for a tool to come to remove the yellow bore cap and then im gonna try get a dremel too inside with a nylon wheel on to make sure it's nice and clean so i'll keep you all updated. I'm starting to wonder whether i should just bit the bullet and buy a new caliper! Lol

Hi all, Thanks for your replies, apologies that it's taken a while to reply - been flat out with work! I could compare it with the other seals but I don't want to take them out now that they are seated in. Unfortunately I don't have one of those piston removal tools to get the pistons out without damaging them so I don't want to risk damaging the new piston now they are in - I might have to get them out though. I didn't notice a tapered section but I will have another look. Yeah i was just using brake fluid as "lubrication" to pop them in. Caliper is all disconnected and the banjo bolt is out so there is no pressure. I will check the seal groove again to confirm that there is no more corrosion but I did check this and remove any that was in there. I will double check again. To save having to pull the pistons out again, do you know whether the seals shrink with time? I would have thought it would have been the opposite and swell up over time. Thanks

Hi All, On my 2010 GasGas, I have an XBlok monopiece caliper (just like this one... http://www.thehellteam.com/xblok-brake-caliper.html) Anyway, the slave piston seals were faulty so I rebuilt this with new seals and pistons to which 3 of the 4 pistons went in fine but the 4th one wont go no matter how hard I try. When i try to get the 4th one in, there's no problem until it hits the seal then it wont go no further. I know you normally have to put a little bit of force to get the piston in but even after applying a lot more than the other 3, I still can't get it in. I can feel the seal compress a little when i try but then it doesn't go past it. After removing the seal and comparing it with the old one, I noticed that the old one was slightly smaller? I thought that if anything the old one should be slightly bigger due to the swelling over time. I was hoping someone could clarify this as I think I might have a dodgy seal which has been made too big. Any help would be really appreciated. Thanks a lot Jake

Thanks Mbeers, I'm afraid I'm in the UK though! There is some play in the rear linkage, I've had it on a stand, rocked it and there is definitely a little movement but I can't work out whether it's the linkage or the shock bushes. I know previously when the linkage bearings where worn, it didn't make any noises. One thing to mention when I lowered the preload on the spring rate, it didn't clunk as much but it's definitely still there. I'm more torn towards the shock though as when I wind the rebound all way to the slowest, it doesn't do it where if it was the linkages, it would still make the noise surely?

No I don't touch the back brake when I endo. I'll double check the headstock but I'm pretty certain it's not that or it would clunk over bumps and also when just applying the front brake hard. I did also check the shock bushes and they looked OK however, I know that it's hard to sometimes see the movement in them when they are outside the bike.

Although it's hard because of the floating disc, I have checked that and there's no play there.

Hi everyone, I have a GasGas txt with an Ohlins rear shock and something has started to clunk when I do a stoppie / endo. It will make a loud clunk when the rear wheel comes off the ground and then clunk again when the wheel hits the ground. This doesn't happen everytime I do do a stoppie, if I'm gentle it wont. The weird thing is, If I'm hopping around on the flat and even with the rear wheel coming off the ground it wont clunk. I've checked the bearings in the linkage and they look OK. Additively there is a little play but nothing extortionate. I've found that all my gasgas' have had a little play in them but the rear shock bushes certainly didn't fall out when I took the shock out! I'm pretty sure the noise is coming from the rear of the bike and I'm thinking it's something with the rear shock as if I dial the rebound adjuster all the way in (so it's at it's slowest setting) it wont make the noise. The rebound on the shock is also still quite fast when it is turned all the way in (slower than all the way out but I would expect the shock to return REALLY slow even with the spring in if the rebound was turned all the way in) Does anyone have any ideas on how to confirm where the problem is? Unfortunately I don't have access to another shock to try. Thanks a lot in advance.

Hi Crazybond, thanks for your reply. I noticed the metal shaving was actually behind the cog (I took that off to inspect and make sure there was no wear on it) I might try and blast it out with some GT85 or something. If I can't get anything out, does this really pose an issue? I always thought that the bearings on the big end bearing have a metal cage round the balls. I did turn the kick start while moving it and it did start to come out but with all the spring and everything attached too. Should this happen? I didn't want to just pull it out in case the spring was a nightmare to get back on! Thanks again.

Hi All, I need to replace the Kickstart and the idle gear on my 2008 280 TXT Pro as they ate each other on friday! The idle gear came off easy enough but I can't work out how to remove the kickstart gear. Could someone let me know how to get it off please. I'm also a bit concerned because I THINK that a bit of metal shaving might have worked it's way into the bearing on the crank as I believe I did see some metal here but even after trying to fish it out with a magenet I couldn't get it out and I can't see it now. I'm not sure whether this has a seal on top of the bearing which would stop anything falling in it? The bike is currently on its side so I didn't have to drain the oil (I was hoping to drain it after I had put it back together to get rid of any rubbish still floating around). What are your guys thoughts on the metal shaving? Thanks a lot in advance.

Hi Crazybond. Thanks for your reply. yeah I did watch Jim's video on how to remove it but the problem is I can't remove the impellor to remove the shaft then the seal because the impellor don't unscrew off the shaft. Well they both turn independently just won't unscrew from each other.

Hi All, I have a 2008 TXT pro in which I think the water pump impeller threads are stripped. I have tried to remove the impeller but when holding this and turning the shaft clockwise they both move indipendantly (all be it very tight) but the shaft doesn't uncrew from the impeller. I'm not really sure how I am going to split them to replace if I can't get them out!? Has anyone else had this problem? I did think about taking the circlip off of the back and heating the seal up then pulling on the shatf to try and remove it in one but I'm not sure whether this will work or just damage everything? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Hi all, I have a 2008 280 txt pro and the clutch master cylinder needs rebuilding because when the lever is pulled in, fluid will slowly leak past the seals back into the reservoir resulting in the clutch engaging. Anyway, as this will be the 2nd time I've rebuilt it, i would like to change the master cylinder to eliminate any problems there but they are quite hard to come by. My friend has a spare early 2012 one with all the internals (not a formula one) he is willing to sell me but I'm not sure whether this will work on my bike. I mean it looks the same but the reservoir just looks slightly bigger? Could someone clear this up for me please. Thanks in advance

Hey guys, Thanks again for all your help. I think that the brace for the mudguard might have been bent. It was pretty tight to undo the bolts when the axle was in. Got the file out to the holes and sprayed some silicon spray onto the legs so this lubricated the dust seals a bit and they seem a lot better now! Cheers

Thanks for the replies guys. I havnt had time to look at these yet, I will hopefully later today! If it helps, the seals were Athena ones. I always thought that they were OK?

Hey guys, I have a TXT 280 2008 model with the 40mm Marzocchi forks which after they have had the oil seals and dust seals replace they feel a bit hard and the rebound is a bit on the slow side. The seals were replace by a marzocchi specialist so I'm pretty sure they are done right but my friend also had his oil seals done on his 2010 TXT 250 at the same time and his feel a lot softer and rebound quicker. The oil weight which was used in mine was ipone 5wt with a 165mm air gap (as recommended by GasGas for my weight). I'm not sure whether there were some changes to the two different years on the forks but I would love mine to feel like my friends. As far as I'm aware the springs haven't been changed in my forks (I did pull them out to check and they were a dark brownie sort of colour). I'm not sure whether they also need to bed in but I've used them for a couple of rides and they still seem to be the same? I have the rebound adjuster all the way out, same as compression (which is the same on my friends). If someone could point me in the right direction on what to check or what it could be that would be great. Thanks a lot in advance